New '96 850 - Needs Love
Well, here is a list of things that the car needs; not necessarily in order. You guys think that it's worth fixing up? Been considering doing just enough to keep it running and saving for a nice Volvo. Probably wouldn't make it worth $2,000 after doing all of this.
$ 17.95 - Spark Plug Socket w/ Extension
$ 2.79 - E5 External Torx (ABS Module)
$ 4.95 - T5 Torx Driver
$ 4.95 - Offset Feeler Gauges
$ 11.95 - Oil Filter Grabber
$ 5.95 - Multipurpose Bone Tool
$ 32.95 - Serpentine Belt Tool
$ 2.49 - Transmission Fluid Funnel
$ 8.95 - Key Blank - OEM
$ 5.27 - Turtle Wax Sticker Removal Spray
$ 14.95 - Forever Black Trim Restoration
$ 10.99 - Griot's Engine Cleaner
$ 89.00 - ABS Module - Midwest ABS
$125.00 - SRS Light Reset/Diagnosis + Service Light Reset - Volvo Dealership
$ 2.00 - SAS Delete Modification
$ 27.90 - Trunk Lift Support Shock x 2
$ 18.95 - Cabin Air Filter - Carbon
$ 16.95 - Pollen Filter Adapter Kit
$ 19.95 - Odometer Gear & Instrument Cluster Bulb Kit
$ 19.43 - Taillamp Bulb Kit
$ .89 - Center Brake Light Bulb
$ 2.00 - Anti-Corrosion Battery Terminal Rings
$ 17.95 - Serpentine Auxillary Belt
$ 00.00 - A/C Clutch Shim Repair
$ 17.95 - Shifter **** Repair Kit
$ 9.95 - Seafoam Trans Tune
$ 15.95 - Mann Oil Filter + Washer x 3
$ 9.95 - Oil Cap Seal - HD Viton
$ .60 - Oil Dipstick Top O-Ring
$ 20.95 - Fuel Filter
$ 9.50 - Fuel Injector Seal Kit
$ 16.95 - Fuel Tank Vent Hose
$ 11.95 - Redline Fuel System Cleaner
$ 4.95 - Flame Trap Kit
$ 12.80 - Vacuum Hose - 5mm x 8 feet
$ 13.68 - Vacuum Elbow Kit
$ 10.24 - Vacuum Tree Manifold
$ 1.95 - Windshield Washer Fluid Check Valve
$ 4.95 - Air Box Pre-Heat Gut
$ 11.95 - Air Filter
$ 2.49 - Throttle Body Gasket
$ 9.95 - CRC MAF Cleaner
$ 31.95 - Spark Plug Set - OEM
$ 59.95 - Spark Plug Wires - OEM
$ 36.95 - Distributor Cap - OEM
$ 22.95 - Distributor Rotor - OEM
$ 23.95 - Thermostat - OEM
$ 6.95 - Thermostat Housing Gasket - OEM
$ 3.78 - Thermostat Housing Bolt x 2
$ 9.95 - Redline Water Wetter
$ 26.95 - Upper Engine Stabilizer Mount - IPD
$ 31.95 - Transmission Torque Mount
$ 25.95 - Upper Engine Rear Torque Mount
$ 13.90 - Hood Cushion x 2
$946.05 TOTAL
$ 17.95 - Spark Plug Socket w/ Extension
$ 2.79 - E5 External Torx (ABS Module)
$ 4.95 - T5 Torx Driver
$ 4.95 - Offset Feeler Gauges
$ 11.95 - Oil Filter Grabber
$ 5.95 - Multipurpose Bone Tool
$ 32.95 - Serpentine Belt Tool
$ 2.49 - Transmission Fluid Funnel
$ 8.95 - Key Blank - OEM
$ 5.27 - Turtle Wax Sticker Removal Spray
$ 14.95 - Forever Black Trim Restoration
$ 10.99 - Griot's Engine Cleaner
$ 89.00 - ABS Module - Midwest ABS
$125.00 - SRS Light Reset/Diagnosis + Service Light Reset - Volvo Dealership
$ 2.00 - SAS Delete Modification
$ 27.90 - Trunk Lift Support Shock x 2
$ 18.95 - Cabin Air Filter - Carbon
$ 16.95 - Pollen Filter Adapter Kit
$ 19.95 - Odometer Gear & Instrument Cluster Bulb Kit
$ 19.43 - Taillamp Bulb Kit
$ .89 - Center Brake Light Bulb
$ 2.00 - Anti-Corrosion Battery Terminal Rings
$ 17.95 - Serpentine Auxillary Belt
$ 00.00 - A/C Clutch Shim Repair
$ 17.95 - Shifter **** Repair Kit
$ 9.95 - Seafoam Trans Tune
$ 15.95 - Mann Oil Filter + Washer x 3
$ 9.95 - Oil Cap Seal - HD Viton
$ .60 - Oil Dipstick Top O-Ring
$ 20.95 - Fuel Filter
$ 9.50 - Fuel Injector Seal Kit
$ 16.95 - Fuel Tank Vent Hose
$ 11.95 - Redline Fuel System Cleaner
$ 4.95 - Flame Trap Kit
$ 12.80 - Vacuum Hose - 5mm x 8 feet
$ 13.68 - Vacuum Elbow Kit
$ 10.24 - Vacuum Tree Manifold
$ 1.95 - Windshield Washer Fluid Check Valve
$ 4.95 - Air Box Pre-Heat Gut
$ 11.95 - Air Filter
$ 2.49 - Throttle Body Gasket
$ 9.95 - CRC MAF Cleaner
$ 31.95 - Spark Plug Set - OEM
$ 59.95 - Spark Plug Wires - OEM
$ 36.95 - Distributor Cap - OEM
$ 22.95 - Distributor Rotor - OEM
$ 23.95 - Thermostat - OEM
$ 6.95 - Thermostat Housing Gasket - OEM
$ 3.78 - Thermostat Housing Bolt x 2
$ 9.95 - Redline Water Wetter
$ 26.95 - Upper Engine Stabilizer Mount - IPD
$ 31.95 - Transmission Torque Mount
$ 25.95 - Upper Engine Rear Torque Mount
$ 13.90 - Hood Cushion x 2
$946.05 TOTAL
Is the repair worth it? That's up to you.
Though, you can probably save 1/4 of the cost if you shop around. I would inspect the caps/rotor to see if they need to be replaced. I wouldn't replace wires unless they are bad.
No need for E5 trox if you send it to midwest.
https://www.midwest-abs.com/
Though, you can probably save 1/4 of the cost if you shop around. I would inspect the caps/rotor to see if they need to be replaced. I wouldn't replace wires unless they are bad.
No need for E5 trox if you send it to midwest.
https://www.midwest-abs.com/
Ah, I was under the impression that the E5 Torx was needed to remove/install the module from the car.
Will check FCPGROTON etc. The above is without shipping exclusively from IPD.
Will pull the cap and check. Wires and outside of cap look great. Maybe just the plugs... Kid I bought it from wasn't sure about maintenance history. Was his mom's car. Other than the dealer having done PCV, Steering Rack, Radiator, Water Pump, Timing Belt, All 4 corners suspension, and a few small things just about 2 years ago; which I got as a receipt and called the dealer.
Might just dump a couple hundred into it and then sell when I've delivered enough pizzas for a RWD/AWD Turbo Brick.
Will check FCPGROTON etc. The above is without shipping exclusively from IPD.
Will pull the cap and check. Wires and outside of cap look great. Maybe just the plugs... Kid I bought it from wasn't sure about maintenance history. Was his mom's car. Other than the dealer having done PCV, Steering Rack, Radiator, Water Pump, Timing Belt, All 4 corners suspension, and a few small things just about 2 years ago; which I got as a receipt and called the dealer.
Might just dump a couple hundred into it and then sell when I've delivered enough pizzas for a RWD/AWD Turbo Brick.
I'd say if that's all it needs its worth it. You could save well over half by going to the pick and pull and getting good used parts, as well as shopping around.
Hell, I'll send ya the brake light bulbs for way less than the ~$20 IPD is asking (and mine will be OE supplier Hella bulbs to boot). Same on the thermostat. Genuine Hella Behr made by Mahle in Germany (which is, AFAIK, OE Supplier) runs $11.47. Comes with gasket set, although if you are only replacing the thermostat the only thing you need is the O ring. As far as the Redline water wetter goes, maybe a bit overkill honestly. You could go another route though and get in touch with your local BG Products guy and pick up the cooling system package (cleaner, leak stop, and "water wetter" additive) for a few $ more. Same goes for the seafoam transtune additive. BG makes a product very similar called ATC for about the same price (or if dead set on Transtune, wal mart sells it locally here for about $7 a can).
As far as the SRS light reset, skip the $125 trip to the dealer for 10 min of work and 45 min of sitting around with your thumb up your nose and spend ~$50 for vida dice and a cable on ebay...Throw it on an old laptop from Craigslist ($75) and be able to work on the car (and any other Volvo's you may end up with) yourself for many years to come.
As far as the chemicals go (sticker remover etc): If you are taking stickers off the car, skip the chemical and use a razor blade then wipe down the area afterwards to remove the leftover glue residue with some goof off/acetone (non painted areas) or some 97% rubbing alcohol (safe on painted/non painted surfaces) and a lint free cloth. For the bumpers, shoot me a PM with your address and next time I get down to the shop I'll grab a bottle of Meds ReNu Finish and send it your way, no charge. I need to do mine anyhow and I'll probably be picking up a pro kit, so there will be plenty left over.
Check around for your filters. RockAuto seems to have the best price I've found for fuel filter, etc. As for the Mann oil filter, head to the local parts house and pick up a Purolator Boss filter. Manufactured by Mann here in the USA (Purolator is a partnership between Mann and Bosch). $12 or if you time it right you can get the complete oil change package (5 qt bottle and Boss filter) for $35. And before you order the cabin air filter and adapter, double check and make sure you don't already have one in the car...My 95 has it already and I almost ordered one.
For the major parts and high wear items, I'd highly recommend FCPEuro (especially for the engine mounts/torque struts/stage 0 items). Just ordered my lower right mount as well as the ProParts poly transmission dogbone late last night and they are already in state about 3 hours away with ETA of Friday. And with a lifetime replacement warranty, its worth paying a bit more $ for the items that wear frequently for that service alone. Buy it once and never have to "buy" it again (either send it back and wait for replacement or "buy" a new one and get refunded once the old one is exchanged back).
Hell, I'll send ya the brake light bulbs for way less than the ~$20 IPD is asking (and mine will be OE supplier Hella bulbs to boot). Same on the thermostat. Genuine Hella Behr made by Mahle in Germany (which is, AFAIK, OE Supplier) runs $11.47. Comes with gasket set, although if you are only replacing the thermostat the only thing you need is the O ring. As far as the Redline water wetter goes, maybe a bit overkill honestly. You could go another route though and get in touch with your local BG Products guy and pick up the cooling system package (cleaner, leak stop, and "water wetter" additive) for a few $ more. Same goes for the seafoam transtune additive. BG makes a product very similar called ATC for about the same price (or if dead set on Transtune, wal mart sells it locally here for about $7 a can).
As far as the SRS light reset, skip the $125 trip to the dealer for 10 min of work and 45 min of sitting around with your thumb up your nose and spend ~$50 for vida dice and a cable on ebay...Throw it on an old laptop from Craigslist ($75) and be able to work on the car (and any other Volvo's you may end up with) yourself for many years to come.
As far as the chemicals go (sticker remover etc): If you are taking stickers off the car, skip the chemical and use a razor blade then wipe down the area afterwards to remove the leftover glue residue with some goof off/acetone (non painted areas) or some 97% rubbing alcohol (safe on painted/non painted surfaces) and a lint free cloth. For the bumpers, shoot me a PM with your address and next time I get down to the shop I'll grab a bottle of Meds ReNu Finish and send it your way, no charge. I need to do mine anyhow and I'll probably be picking up a pro kit, so there will be plenty left over.
Check around for your filters. RockAuto seems to have the best price I've found for fuel filter, etc. As for the Mann oil filter, head to the local parts house and pick up a Purolator Boss filter. Manufactured by Mann here in the USA (Purolator is a partnership between Mann and Bosch). $12 or if you time it right you can get the complete oil change package (5 qt bottle and Boss filter) for $35. And before you order the cabin air filter and adapter, double check and make sure you don't already have one in the car...My 95 has it already and I almost ordered one.
For the major parts and high wear items, I'd highly recommend FCPEuro (especially for the engine mounts/torque struts/stage 0 items). Just ordered my lower right mount as well as the ProParts poly transmission dogbone late last night and they are already in state about 3 hours away with ETA of Friday. And with a lifetime replacement warranty, its worth paying a bit more $ for the items that wear frequently for that service alone. Buy it once and never have to "buy" it again (either send it back and wait for replacement or "buy" a new one and get refunded once the old one is exchanged back).
Last edited by 97-850Wagen; Aug 3, 2016 at 11:35 PM.
It is.
https://www.midwest-abs.com/
We offer
The most comprehensive Volvo ABS repair and exchange service,
The longest warranty-lifetime,
The fastest standard shipping and
The best after-sale support, 7 days a week.
All Exchange Modules include an E-5 Torx Socket needed for installation and FREE shipping via Priority Mail in the ConUS. With over 100 ABS modules in stock at all times, every module is always in stock and orders ship the same day IF received before 3pm.
updated 7-21-2016
The most comprehensive Volvo ABS repair and exchange service,
The longest warranty-lifetime,
The fastest standard shipping and
The best after-sale support, 7 days a week.
All Exchange Modules include an E-5 Torx Socket needed for installation and FREE shipping via Priority Mail in the ConUS. With over 100 ABS modules in stock at all times, every module is always in stock and orders ship the same day IF received before 3pm.
updated 7-21-2016
Looks like over half of that is preventive maintenance to me. I didn't add it all up. Which would mean yes, the car is well worth fixing. You can do PM anytime, even when it's not P any more.
Well, I think you’re looking at this the wrong way.
Any 20 year old car is going to ‘need’ a number of things to make it as nice as a brand new one on the lot. And those things will surely make your head spin when you add them up.
My suggestion - determine what the car really NEEDS. Do that. Drive the car for awhile and wait for something to NEED to be replaced.
So, things that I’d make a priority
Timing belt and water pump if they are due
Coolant hoses, if they are due
Check tires and brakes
Change the oil
Tool costs - a spark plug socket isn’t $17.95, and I have to think most people already have at least a couple. And if you don’t, they are like $3 at AutoZone or Harbor Freight!
E5 - comes with the ABS module, use and return and you don’t get charged for it. Easy peasy.
Bone tool - actually, a pretty useful tool and not out of reason on price to throw one into a box with an existing order.
Oil filter grabber? The OE filters don’t have any sort of hex on the end of them, and if you don’t over tighten them, they will come off by hand.
The serpentine tool is pricey if you buy the one from IPD. More economical choices would include a $17.99 shipped model off eBay that looks really nice (Volvo Serpentine Belt Tool Models After 1995 | eBay) or Robert’s version, (https://volvoforums.com/forum/sale-t...nsioner-66497/) for $10,
Funnels - do you have a Walmart nearby?
Key Blanks - the blank itself isn’t prohibitive, but keep in mind these are laser cut, and I don’t think most locksmiths can cut them for you. I believe this is a dealer item, and my dealer orders theirs direct from Volvo NA. I take them a key code or VIN, they order the key from their distributor, and it arrives in a day or two.
Engine cleaners, solvents, etc? Get what you need, and make do on the other stuff. Sticker removal spray? Well, if your car has those Moose stickers on it, I’d want them gone, too, but a hairdryer will remove the stickers and the adhesive can be cleaned up with lots of safe off the shelf stuff that you might already have - peanut butter, goo gone, etc. Do an internet search.
Midwest ABS is highly recommended. Fix it and forget it! he SRS light reset can be done yourself for less I believe.
Trunk shocks - cheap at the bone yard, or look on eBay.
Cabin air filter - go grab one at your local parts store, and if you don’t have the adapter (check first! - I have 2 97 850Rs, 1 came from the factory with, the other didn’t), hit the boneyard and get one. I think the last 2 I bought were $1 apiece at the junkyard.
Taillamp bulbs - again, a buck at the junkyard, or a couple bucks at a Walmart or the like. Now, the $20 kit from IPD may have something fancy and sexy like LEDs, and if so, I can see why it’s expensive - but IPD is pretty much the most expensive place I’ve found for most things Volvo.
And after owning many cars over the years, I’ve never had a need to run water wetter. I’m OK with you wanting to use it if it provides some sort of value to you - but I’d argue that you’d need/want that for any car you purchase/maintain.
I think it’s worth fixing up and enjoying - but maybe break it up as to what you NEED to do to keep it safely on the road - and then chip away at the other stuff as time goes on if you decide you enjoy the car and want to keep it.
I have a similar conundrum right now. I have been daily driving a 97 850R wagon for several years now. It’s been in my family since it was almost new (was a program car for a Volvo exec for almost a year before being sent to Mannheim Auctions). I am trying to tidy up a few bits and pieces thet are a little worn that are difficult to find. In the process, I bought another 97 850R (sedan) that I was going to use for some parts, and decided I didn’t want to kill it, so I bought an engine, and have been picking up parts.
But, I got to thinking, I’m putting a lot of dough into a sedan when it’s really wagons that I like. Am I investing in a project that won’t make me happy when I’m done? Should I go ahead and part it out, or sell it to someone whole and find a 2nd wagon?
Or, am I going to be happy having something to wrench on, which is really what I enjoy the most?
Any 20 year old car is going to ‘need’ a number of things to make it as nice as a brand new one on the lot. And those things will surely make your head spin when you add them up.
My suggestion - determine what the car really NEEDS. Do that. Drive the car for awhile and wait for something to NEED to be replaced.
So, things that I’d make a priority
Timing belt and water pump if they are due
Coolant hoses, if they are due
Check tires and brakes
Change the oil
Tool costs - a spark plug socket isn’t $17.95, and I have to think most people already have at least a couple. And if you don’t, they are like $3 at AutoZone or Harbor Freight!
E5 - comes with the ABS module, use and return and you don’t get charged for it. Easy peasy.
Bone tool - actually, a pretty useful tool and not out of reason on price to throw one into a box with an existing order.
Oil filter grabber? The OE filters don’t have any sort of hex on the end of them, and if you don’t over tighten them, they will come off by hand.
The serpentine tool is pricey if you buy the one from IPD. More economical choices would include a $17.99 shipped model off eBay that looks really nice (Volvo Serpentine Belt Tool Models After 1995 | eBay) or Robert’s version, (https://volvoforums.com/forum/sale-t...nsioner-66497/) for $10,
Funnels - do you have a Walmart nearby?
Key Blanks - the blank itself isn’t prohibitive, but keep in mind these are laser cut, and I don’t think most locksmiths can cut them for you. I believe this is a dealer item, and my dealer orders theirs direct from Volvo NA. I take them a key code or VIN, they order the key from their distributor, and it arrives in a day or two.
Engine cleaners, solvents, etc? Get what you need, and make do on the other stuff. Sticker removal spray? Well, if your car has those Moose stickers on it, I’d want them gone, too, but a hairdryer will remove the stickers and the adhesive can be cleaned up with lots of safe off the shelf stuff that you might already have - peanut butter, goo gone, etc. Do an internet search.
Midwest ABS is highly recommended. Fix it and forget it! he SRS light reset can be done yourself for less I believe.
Trunk shocks - cheap at the bone yard, or look on eBay.
Cabin air filter - go grab one at your local parts store, and if you don’t have the adapter (check first! - I have 2 97 850Rs, 1 came from the factory with, the other didn’t), hit the boneyard and get one. I think the last 2 I bought were $1 apiece at the junkyard.
Taillamp bulbs - again, a buck at the junkyard, or a couple bucks at a Walmart or the like. Now, the $20 kit from IPD may have something fancy and sexy like LEDs, and if so, I can see why it’s expensive - but IPD is pretty much the most expensive place I’ve found for most things Volvo.
And after owning many cars over the years, I’ve never had a need to run water wetter. I’m OK with you wanting to use it if it provides some sort of value to you - but I’d argue that you’d need/want that for any car you purchase/maintain.
I think it’s worth fixing up and enjoying - but maybe break it up as to what you NEED to do to keep it safely on the road - and then chip away at the other stuff as time goes on if you decide you enjoy the car and want to keep it.
I have a similar conundrum right now. I have been daily driving a 97 850R wagon for several years now. It’s been in my family since it was almost new (was a program car for a Volvo exec for almost a year before being sent to Mannheim Auctions). I am trying to tidy up a few bits and pieces thet are a little worn that are difficult to find. In the process, I bought another 97 850R (sedan) that I was going to use for some parts, and decided I didn’t want to kill it, so I bought an engine, and have been picking up parts.
But, I got to thinking, I’m putting a lot of dough into a sedan when it’s really wagons that I like. Am I investing in a project that won’t make me happy when I’m done? Should I go ahead and part it out, or sell it to someone whole and find a 2nd wagon?
Or, am I going to be happy having something to wrench on, which is really what I enjoy the most?
Well, I think you’re looking at this the wrong way.
Any 20 year old car is going to ‘need’ a number of things to make it as nice as a brand new one on the lot. And those things will surely make your head spin when you add them up.
My suggestion - determine what the car really NEEDS. Do that. Drive the car for awhile and wait for something to NEED to be replaced.
{snip}
The serpentine tool is pricey if you buy the one from IPD. More economical choices would include a $17.99 shipped model off eBay that looks really nice (Volvo Serpentine Belt Tool Models After 1995 | eBay) or Robert’s version, (https://volvoforums.com/forum/sale-t...nsioner-66497/) for $10,
Engine cleaners, solvents, etc? Get what you need, and make do on the other stuff. Sticker removal spray? Well, if your car has those Moose stickers on it, I’d want them gone, too, but a hairdryer will remove the stickers and the adhesive can be cleaned up with lots of safe off the shelf stuff that you might already have - peanut butter, goo gone, etc. Do an internet search.
Guilty as charged (they came with the car)
What's the deal with the moose stickers anyway???
{snip}
I think it’s worth fixing up and enjoying - but maybe break it up as to what you NEED to do to keep it safely on the road - and then chip away at the other stuff as time goes on if you decide you enjoy the car and want to keep it.
Any 20 year old car is going to ‘need’ a number of things to make it as nice as a brand new one on the lot. And those things will surely make your head spin when you add them up.
My suggestion - determine what the car really NEEDS. Do that. Drive the car for awhile and wait for something to NEED to be replaced.
{snip}
The serpentine tool is pricey if you buy the one from IPD. More economical choices would include a $17.99 shipped model off eBay that looks really nice (Volvo Serpentine Belt Tool Models After 1995 | eBay) or Robert’s version, (https://volvoforums.com/forum/sale-t...nsioner-66497/) for $10,
Engine cleaners, solvents, etc? Get what you need, and make do on the other stuff. Sticker removal spray? Well, if your car has those Moose stickers on it, I’d want them gone, too, but a hairdryer will remove the stickers and the adhesive can be cleaned up with lots of safe off the shelf stuff that you might already have - peanut butter, goo gone, etc. Do an internet search.
Guilty as charged (they came with the car)
What's the deal with the moose stickers anyway???{snip}
I think it’s worth fixing up and enjoying - but maybe break it up as to what you NEED to do to keep it safely on the road - and then chip away at the other stuff as time goes on if you decide you enjoy the car and want to keep it.
All valid points and I couldn't have said it any better myself. Picked out these items to add to:
Even cheaper option I've found for the serpentine belt, if you don't mind taking an extra 2 bolts out (assuming you have 1/2" drive sockets/ratchets): Buy a 1/2" drive to 3/4" drive adapter and use a breaker bar or long 1/2" drive ratchet. To get the access to use it you do have to remove your ECU/TCU and the box surrounding it and slide it out of the way about 3/4". From there you can wedge the 3/4" adapter into the hole on the tensioner and then put your breaker bar or ratchet into it and voila. The breaker bar may be a tight fit, but I do know for certain a ratchet will fit (I opted to use my 1/2" drive torque wrench since it gave a bit more leverage, but these tensioners dont take much once you get them to the point that the pin holes line up and you have them locked down. Don't ask me how I know...I had to learn the hard way after snapping one off at the pivot point)
As far as removing the stickers, personally I'd hesitate to use goo gone (not only for price reasons but I'd be cautious due to possible paint damage). One good option outside of rubbing alcohol (as I mentioned earlier) is the hair drier method John mentions. To get the rest of the adhesive off, you could also use a lint free cloth soaked in Zippo lighter fluid ($2 for a small can at Walmart).
It really does sound like you've got a good starting point and a car that with a bit of elbow grease will take you many places for many years. Hell, given the option, I'd gladly trade places with you and work on this car over the one I'm driving now...
Wow, thank you all for the reponses guys. Will respond individually. Until then, re-worked the parts list & listed in order of precedence.
p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; } $ 12.95 - Torx Bit Set - IPD
$ 4.95 - Offset Feeler Gauges - IPD
$ 5.95 - Multipurpose Bone Tool - IPD
$ 8.95 - Key Blank - OEM - IPD
$ 9.99 - Tail Light Bulb Kit – Osram – FCP Euro
$ 2 .00 - SAS Delete Modification – Radio Shack
$ 31.72 -Valvoline MaxLife 10W-40 Semi-Synthetic Oil - 10 Quarts - Amazon
$ 4.99 - Oil Filter – Mann – FCP Euro
$ 0.19 - Oil Drain Plug Washer – Volvo – FCP Euro
$ 0.29 - Oil Cap Seal – Elring – FCP Euro
$ 0.60 - Oil Dipstick Top O-Ring – IPD
$ 11.95 - Oil Filter Grabber - IPD
$ 11.09 - Air Filter - Mann – FCP Euro
$ 00.00 - Air Box Pre-Heat Gut
$ 6.09 - CRC MAF Cleaner – FCP Euro
$ 3.79 - CRC Throttle Body Cleaner – FCP Euro
$ 5.39 - Throttle Body Gasket – Volvo – FCP Euro
$ 17.95 - Serpentine Auxiliary Belt – Contitech - IPD
$ 00.00 - A/C Clutch Shim Repair
$ 32.95 - Serpentine Belt Tool – IPD
$ 17.95 - Shifter **** Repair Kit - IPD
$ 20.95 - Fuel Filter – Bosch - IPD
$ 9.50 - Fuel Injector Seal Kit - IPD
$ 9.95 - Fuel Injector Spacer (x5) - Victor Reinz – IPD
$ 8.40 - Lower Fuel Injector Seal (x5) – Victor Reinz - IPD
$ 11.95 - Redline Fuel System Cleaner - IPD
$ 4.95 - Flame Trap Kit - IPD
$ 12.80 - Vacuum Hose - 5mm x 8 feet - IPD
$ 13.68 - Vacuum Elbow Kit - IPD
$ 10.24 - Vacuum Tree + O-ring – Volvo – IPD
$ 28.99 - Spark Plug Set – Volvo – FCP Euro
$ 45.99 - Spark Plug Wires – Bougicord – FCP Euro
$ 33.95 - Distributor Cap – Bosch – FCP Euro
$ 21.99 - Distributor Rotor – Bosch – FCP Euro
$116.99 - Engine Mount Kit – Meyle/Febi/PPS – FCP Euro (Front, Right, Rear)
$ 26.95 - Upper Engine Stabilizer Mount – Polyurethane – IPD
$ 32.99 - Upper Engine Rear Torque Mount – Volvo – FCP Euro
$ 31.95 - Transmission Torque Mount – Hutchinson - IPD
$ 25.98 - G-05 50/50 Coolant – 1 Gal. (x2) - Zerex – Amazon
$ 9.95 - Redline Water Wetter - IPD
$ 10.95 - 87° Thermostat - Vernet - IPD
$ 6.95 - Thermostat Housing Gasket – OEM - IPD
$ 3.78 - Thermostat Housing Bolt (x2) - OEM – IPD
$ 69.33 - Mobil 1 3309 ATF Fluid – 12 Quarts (Transmission Drain & Fill) - Amazon
$ 2.49 - Transmission Fluid Funnel – IPD
$ 89.00 - ABS Module Exchange - Midwest ABS
$125.00 - SRS Light Reset/Diagnosis + Service Light Reset - Volvo Dealership
$ 19.95 - Odometer Gear & Instrument Cluster Bulb Kit – IPD
p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; } $ 12.95 - Torx Bit Set - IPD
$ 4.95 - Offset Feeler Gauges - IPD
$ 5.95 - Multipurpose Bone Tool - IPD
$ 8.95 - Key Blank - OEM - IPD
$ 9.99 - Tail Light Bulb Kit – Osram – FCP Euro
$ 2 .00 - SAS Delete Modification – Radio Shack
$ 31.72 -Valvoline MaxLife 10W-40 Semi-Synthetic Oil - 10 Quarts - Amazon
$ 4.99 - Oil Filter – Mann – FCP Euro
$ 0.19 - Oil Drain Plug Washer – Volvo – FCP Euro
$ 0.29 - Oil Cap Seal – Elring – FCP Euro
$ 0.60 - Oil Dipstick Top O-Ring – IPD
$ 11.95 - Oil Filter Grabber - IPD
$ 11.09 - Air Filter - Mann – FCP Euro
$ 00.00 - Air Box Pre-Heat Gut
$ 6.09 - CRC MAF Cleaner – FCP Euro
$ 3.79 - CRC Throttle Body Cleaner – FCP Euro
$ 5.39 - Throttle Body Gasket – Volvo – FCP Euro
$ 17.95 - Serpentine Auxiliary Belt – Contitech - IPD
$ 00.00 - A/C Clutch Shim Repair
$ 32.95 - Serpentine Belt Tool – IPD
$ 17.95 - Shifter **** Repair Kit - IPD
$ 20.95 - Fuel Filter – Bosch - IPD
$ 9.50 - Fuel Injector Seal Kit - IPD
$ 9.95 - Fuel Injector Spacer (x5) - Victor Reinz – IPD
$ 8.40 - Lower Fuel Injector Seal (x5) – Victor Reinz - IPD
$ 11.95 - Redline Fuel System Cleaner - IPD
$ 4.95 - Flame Trap Kit - IPD
$ 12.80 - Vacuum Hose - 5mm x 8 feet - IPD
$ 13.68 - Vacuum Elbow Kit - IPD
$ 10.24 - Vacuum Tree + O-ring – Volvo – IPD
$ 28.99 - Spark Plug Set – Volvo – FCP Euro
$ 45.99 - Spark Plug Wires – Bougicord – FCP Euro
$ 33.95 - Distributor Cap – Bosch – FCP Euro
$ 21.99 - Distributor Rotor – Bosch – FCP Euro
$116.99 - Engine Mount Kit – Meyle/Febi/PPS – FCP Euro (Front, Right, Rear)
$ 26.95 - Upper Engine Stabilizer Mount – Polyurethane – IPD
$ 32.99 - Upper Engine Rear Torque Mount – Volvo – FCP Euro
$ 31.95 - Transmission Torque Mount – Hutchinson - IPD
$ 25.98 - G-05 50/50 Coolant – 1 Gal. (x2) - Zerex – Amazon
$ 9.95 - Redline Water Wetter - IPD
$ 10.95 - 87° Thermostat - Vernet - IPD
$ 6.95 - Thermostat Housing Gasket – OEM - IPD
$ 3.78 - Thermostat Housing Bolt (x2) - OEM – IPD
$ 69.33 - Mobil 1 3309 ATF Fluid – 12 Quarts (Transmission Drain & Fill) - Amazon
$ 2.49 - Transmission Fluid Funnel – IPD
$ 89.00 - ABS Module Exchange - Midwest ABS
$125.00 - SRS Light Reset/Diagnosis + Service Light Reset - Volvo Dealership
$ 19.95 - Odometer Gear & Instrument Cluster Bulb Kit – IPD
Shoot me a PM with your mailing address, I'll save ya a couple $$$ and throw together a care package with those tail light bulbs and a few other small odds and ends 
Only thing I have to add, seeing the reworked parts list:
1: Is your shifter button sticking/broken? If not, you could probably skip the repair kit for the foreseeable future. And if its broken/sticking, Hell I'll send ya my old **** free of charge...the leather isn't perfect, missing a few chunks but its functional. Or next time I head to the boneyard I can pull one for you no charge (they run $2-$3 at the pick and pull and take all of 2 hard yanks to get out)
2: I'd suggest doing the major stuff first: Filters/fluid changes (trans/coolant, etc)/plugs, wires, cap, rotor/PCV system/vacuum lines. At least then you can keep the car on the road and have peace of mind that the major PM items are addressed (i.e., the things that kill these cars or cause major headaches from what I have gathered). Then start looking at your serpentine belt/tensioner, see if it actually needs replacing. Same goes for the engine mounts. From what I recall, the actual engine mounts are more like a grease filled cushion, and hold up quite well...unless you see cracked rubber/grease everywhere from them, I wouldn't worry about them in the immediate future (I'm running original mounts still from 1995 with ~235k on them in a car thats spent all but 2 years of its life on the heavily salted and pothole ridden roads of PA for what its worth, no troubles). From what I gather, the ones that fail most often are the upper and lower torque struts and the lower right mount. For the fuel system, unless the injectors are leaking or you are having problems, I wouldn't be too concerned with replacing the seals and spacers. IMHO I'd take the money saved there and invest it in a fuel pump relay instead, and do the filter and a bottle of injector cleaner thru the system.
Oh, and TIMING BELT TIMING BELT TIMING BELT! Unless you have documented proof that it's been done within the service interval (5 years/75k iirc) plan to do that ASAP.
3: I'd highly recommend checking local for your fluids, rather than shopping Amazon, etc. If you follow the local ads for (insert favorite auto parts chain here) you'll likely find similar, if not better prices, with less waiting. Don't know about you, but my time is valuable and I don't have time to wait for things that important to ship from a warehouse half a world away...
4: Tools are never a bad investment. You'll get years of use out of them and they'll always pay for themselves in the long run. I'd honestly say skip the oil filter grabber though (9 times out of 10 they are useless anyhow). You should be able to remove the old filter by hand. If not, grab a long screwdriver and punch a hole thru the side of the old filter. From there, install the new one hand tight and voila.
5: For the SRS light reset, try finding a local indie mechanic that deals with Euro makes/Volvos in general. $ to donuts if he's worth his salt, he'll have VIDA DICE and can do it for much less than the stealership. My local guy resets them for $50-$60. Another local indie does them for free with a full VIDA diagnostic service ($75).
I can't say this is the right route to go, not familiar with the car and don't have the hands on time that you've had with it. Logically though it would make sense to come at it from a Stage 0 mentality before taking on any other larger tasks. I'm no expert (but I do play one sometimes on forums
) but that would be my take on this. All things being what they are, I managed to trim at least $275 off your list, possibly more considering there's no shipping costs factored into any of this (and with IPD, shipping cost is going to negate any savings you see, unless you order more than $175 at a time, vs FCP who ships any order over $49 free)...
Whatever you decide to do though, have fun with it and you'll enjoy the car even more when its finally finished
FWIW, I know how ya feel right now, wanting to go all in and do it right
You should've seen my IPD cart last night while I was shopping for silicone turbo coolant hoses. If I had a credit card I'd probably be kicking myself right now...Swimming in parts, but eating dirt and rocks for the next year and a half ($1500 in "maintenance" parts is what I came up with, until common sense got the better of me and I trimmed it down to needs vs wants and came up with a reasonable $150
and even then I'm still trimming that down by shopping swedespeed forum for used parts)

Only thing I have to add, seeing the reworked parts list:
1: Is your shifter button sticking/broken? If not, you could probably skip the repair kit for the foreseeable future. And if its broken/sticking, Hell I'll send ya my old **** free of charge...the leather isn't perfect, missing a few chunks but its functional. Or next time I head to the boneyard I can pull one for you no charge (they run $2-$3 at the pick and pull and take all of 2 hard yanks to get out)
2: I'd suggest doing the major stuff first: Filters/fluid changes (trans/coolant, etc)/plugs, wires, cap, rotor/PCV system/vacuum lines. At least then you can keep the car on the road and have peace of mind that the major PM items are addressed (i.e., the things that kill these cars or cause major headaches from what I have gathered). Then start looking at your serpentine belt/tensioner, see if it actually needs replacing. Same goes for the engine mounts. From what I recall, the actual engine mounts are more like a grease filled cushion, and hold up quite well...unless you see cracked rubber/grease everywhere from them, I wouldn't worry about them in the immediate future (I'm running original mounts still from 1995 with ~235k on them in a car thats spent all but 2 years of its life on the heavily salted and pothole ridden roads of PA for what its worth, no troubles). From what I gather, the ones that fail most often are the upper and lower torque struts and the lower right mount. For the fuel system, unless the injectors are leaking or you are having problems, I wouldn't be too concerned with replacing the seals and spacers. IMHO I'd take the money saved there and invest it in a fuel pump relay instead, and do the filter and a bottle of injector cleaner thru the system.
Oh, and TIMING BELT TIMING BELT TIMING BELT! Unless you have documented proof that it's been done within the service interval (5 years/75k iirc) plan to do that ASAP.
3: I'd highly recommend checking local for your fluids, rather than shopping Amazon, etc. If you follow the local ads for (insert favorite auto parts chain here) you'll likely find similar, if not better prices, with less waiting. Don't know about you, but my time is valuable and I don't have time to wait for things that important to ship from a warehouse half a world away...
4: Tools are never a bad investment. You'll get years of use out of them and they'll always pay for themselves in the long run. I'd honestly say skip the oil filter grabber though (9 times out of 10 they are useless anyhow). You should be able to remove the old filter by hand. If not, grab a long screwdriver and punch a hole thru the side of the old filter. From there, install the new one hand tight and voila.
5: For the SRS light reset, try finding a local indie mechanic that deals with Euro makes/Volvos in general. $ to donuts if he's worth his salt, he'll have VIDA DICE and can do it for much less than the stealership. My local guy resets them for $50-$60. Another local indie does them for free with a full VIDA diagnostic service ($75).
I can't say this is the right route to go, not familiar with the car and don't have the hands on time that you've had with it. Logically though it would make sense to come at it from a Stage 0 mentality before taking on any other larger tasks. I'm no expert (but I do play one sometimes on forums
) but that would be my take on this. All things being what they are, I managed to trim at least $275 off your list, possibly more considering there's no shipping costs factored into any of this (and with IPD, shipping cost is going to negate any savings you see, unless you order more than $175 at a time, vs FCP who ships any order over $49 free)...Whatever you decide to do though, have fun with it and you'll enjoy the car even more when its finally finished
FWIW, I know how ya feel right now, wanting to go all in and do it right
You should've seen my IPD cart last night while I was shopping for silicone turbo coolant hoses. If I had a credit card I'd probably be kicking myself right now...Swimming in parts, but eating dirt and rocks for the next year and a half ($1500 in "maintenance" parts is what I came up with, until common sense got the better of me and I trimmed it down to needs vs wants and came up with a reasonable $150
and even then I'm still trimming that down by shopping swedespeed forum for used parts)
Last edited by 97-850Wagen; Aug 7, 2016 at 09:15 PM.
p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; } $287.63 TOTAL, less IPD Shipping. Came to my sense. Going to drive until a Turbo something or other is purchased soon. Negative ROI past his point or so. Still going to respond to everyone individually. Tomorrow. lol Thank you guys for the support. Look forward to posting about my new R model soon.
$ 9.99 - Tail Light Bulb Kit – Osram – FCP Euro
$ 3.18 - Windshield Washer Fluid – Prestone - Walmart
$ 2.00 - SAS Delete Modification – Radio Shack
$ 31.72 -Valvoline MaxLife 10W-40 Semi-Synthetic Oil - 10 Quarts - Amazon
$ 4.99 - Oil Filter – Mann – FCP Euro
$ 0.19 - Oil Drain Plug Washer – Volvo – FCP Euro
$ 0.29 - Oil Cap Seal – Elring – FCP Euro
$ 11.09 - Air Filter - Mann – FCP Euro
$ 0.00 - Air Box Pre-Heat Gut
$ 6.09 - CRC MAF Cleaner – FCP Euro
$ 3.79 - CRC Throttle Body Cleaner – FCP Euro
$ 5.39 - Throttle Body Gasket – Volvo – FCP Euro
$ 18.09 - Fuel Filter – Bosch – FCP Euro
$ 13.99 - Redline Fuel System Cleaner – O’Reilly Auto Parts
$ 15.49 - Serpentine Auxiliary Belt – Contitech – FCP Euro
$ 00.00 - A/C Clutch Shim Repair
$ 31.95 - Transmission Torque Mount – Hutchinson - IPD
$ 17.95 - Shifter **** Repair Kit – IPD
$ 19.95 - Odometer Gear & Instrument Cluster Bulb Kit – IPD
$ 2.49 - Transmission Fluid Funnel – IPD
$ 89.00 - ABS Module Exchange - Midwest ABS
$ 9.99 - Tail Light Bulb Kit – Osram – FCP Euro
$ 3.18 - Windshield Washer Fluid – Prestone - Walmart
$ 2.00 - SAS Delete Modification – Radio Shack
$ 31.72 -Valvoline MaxLife 10W-40 Semi-Synthetic Oil - 10 Quarts - Amazon
$ 4.99 - Oil Filter – Mann – FCP Euro
$ 0.19 - Oil Drain Plug Washer – Volvo – FCP Euro
$ 0.29 - Oil Cap Seal – Elring – FCP Euro
$ 11.09 - Air Filter - Mann – FCP Euro
$ 0.00 - Air Box Pre-Heat Gut
$ 6.09 - CRC MAF Cleaner – FCP Euro
$ 3.79 - CRC Throttle Body Cleaner – FCP Euro
$ 5.39 - Throttle Body Gasket – Volvo – FCP Euro
$ 18.09 - Fuel Filter – Bosch – FCP Euro
$ 13.99 - Redline Fuel System Cleaner – O’Reilly Auto Parts
$ 15.49 - Serpentine Auxiliary Belt – Contitech – FCP Euro
$ 00.00 - A/C Clutch Shim Repair
$ 31.95 - Transmission Torque Mount – Hutchinson - IPD
$ 17.95 - Shifter **** Repair Kit – IPD
$ 19.95 - Odometer Gear & Instrument Cluster Bulb Kit – IPD
$ 2.49 - Transmission Fluid Funnel – IPD
$ 89.00 - ABS Module Exchange - Midwest ABS
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