Ok, '94 850 turbo. I changed the head gasket and now no start. The starter cranks over hard, but the engine won't start up

It is getting: spark, fuel, and cylinder compression.
There are no engine codes.
I made sure the timing was correct, and attached some photos showing the positions of the camshafts:
1. The crank pulley is lined up with the notch on the block.
2. The intake cam has 2 bolts on top 1 on bottom; exhaust cam has 1 on top 2 on bottom.
3. The rear of the intake cam has the notch on top and parallel with the top of the head.
4. The rear of the exhaust cam has the notch on bottom and parallel with the top of the head.
5. Another picture of the intake cam gear

Any idea whats going on? Even if the timing is off by a couple gear teeth, the computer should adjust ignition and it should start right?

 

Looks like you have the exhaust pulley on the intake and the intake pulley on the exhaust. Your cams are not swapped, I can see the 'I' and 'E' in the pictures.

Here is my engine at TDC. Notice the exhaust pulley timing mark is directly in front of a punched hole, the intakes is not. It would be less of a headache if you had them on the right cams.

 

Ok cool, thanks for the pic. I will look at it now. Im just curious though, how close does the timing need to be?? I was under the impression that with a fully computerized ignition system, the computer would adjust spark and fuel to accommodate timing that is a little bit off... maybe a few gear teeth.

Its very frustrating because I don't even know if it is the timing thats off. I am just assuming it is because there is adequate spark and fuel.

 

Did the pulleys give you the answer.

Same problem, down to the heads off/gasket [and surfaced].

Are you up and running?

HHHHHHHHHHeeeeeeeeeeelllllllllllp

 

Set your cams to be in the center of the pulleys, dont go setting it +/-.

If your concern about TDC, take the #1 spark plug out and set a long screw driver straight down into it till it rests on the piston. Hand move the crank to get it to TDC. (Remember, you have two TDC strokes. You need to get to #1 compression stroke)

Check that your rotor is pointing to your #1 spark plug on the cap.

Yes, the timing is computer controlled but if you put things way out of whack there is simply nothing it can do to compensate. Also, playing with cam timing should come after you have it running, for getting it started put everything back to center.
(tip)My pulleys are painted before I remove the three 10mm so I can put them back in the exact spot when reassembled.

 

I may owe you:
a] cokes
b] beer
c] free choice

my partner in crime just called, says pulleys were marked L and R, everything checks, so just for giggles will measure resistance on sensors, and stick a screwdriver like it was a Chevy or a Ferrari, or a volvo....

Ben

 

Are there any factory marks on the gears? All those red and white marks on mine are from whoever did the timing belt job last. Technically the gears are arbitrary, as long as you get the cams lined up correctly, right?

 

...sounds like ahilfman also is not running, yet.

we think we have a Bosch P09155738 [motronic 4.3 or 4.4] control ECU. The Chilton manual discusses other systems. There is also an issue that the flywheel [pulse wheel] on the replacement engine has 44 holes, but the markings on our system seem to be 60 [2 of which are blank].

Fortunately, the 'old' mill [with rod extending from case] is still in the 'junkers' yard, so tomorrow we will count the holes on that flywheel. Have you ever heard of such monkey shines? Obviously, if this flywheel [pulse wheel {we have to get used to Volvo jargon, no wonder I can't find stuff in the VADIS search}; then we pull the Pulse Wheel from the old engine and swap to the 'new' engine and may be it will run?

The old mechanical TDL/screwdriver trick doesn't seem right in that the piston doesn't really top out, but I am sure that is not the issue, rather that it just reaches it's "best" highest point.

We trudge onward,and realize that without this Forum, and the guys [n' gals] behind it, we would have already applied a couple of gallons of high test and lit a match!

I love my Volvo's, Rick drives a 'gansta' Buick Park Avenue.

Gentle Ben

 

I have no idea what you just said

 

Sorry about that; Boxpin was kinda' answering us both, as my problems seemed to be very similar: anyway, this Volvo is up and purring quietly.

In the end, it was a connector underside, that got oil soaked when the rod came through the block. That alone was keeping us from starting!

Thanks to y'all for your patience and suggestions

Gentle Ben

 

I actually have some new info....
The pump works and there is fuel making it to the pressure regulator. However, its not getting through and there is no pressure in the rail!

I replaced the fuel pressure regulator - and the fuel is still not getting past!
The vacuum line is connected without leaks from the FPR to the pvc tree.
There are no codes.

What can be causing this??

 

holy crap! I'm i going insane? Did I get the fuel lines mixed up?

Mine is set up: pump --> fuel supply line --> FPR --> fuel rail
Is it the other way around?
rail --> FPR --> fuel return line?

 

Yep; think you found your problem; it's the latter, e.g.
pump -> fuel supply line -> rail input -> FPR -> fuel return line

On mine the FPR is mounted to the fuel rail; that's the outlet from the rail which goes to the return line.

 

Wow. Thank you. I feel so dumb, but the car works now.

 

No worries; it's not like you're the first one to have ever done that...

 

The computer will adjust to a point and the performance will be terrible for each tooth you're off. BUT, the clearance between the valves and the piston doesn't change and each tooth off is closer to a bent valve, cracked head, damaged piston.

 

So far so good. I made sure the timing was perfect.
There are a few small things... Im getting a 2-3-2 code off the diagnostic box and a P0120 from my scanner. The fuel economy goes down to 15mpg on the streets but goes way up on the highway...and I smell fuel. I replaced every vacuum line but I'll keep checking.

 

P0120 - Throttle position sensor A/ Accelerator pedal position sensor A/ - circuit malfunction.

Check it.

The fuel smell may be the seal for the pump. Its very common to not get that seal right and you get fumes or spillage on a full tank as a reminder.