Seems like I cant get much more than a year or so (no matter what car I own) out of a set of brake rotors! I put the wheels on myself- not over torqued, Pretty easy on my brakes. Once again I feel the pulsing brake pedal. Steering wheel feels fine- Do you all reccommend getting cheapo chineese rotors and change them every year or higher end rotors so they last longer? DO they last longer? Thinking about paying the big bucks and having it done at Monroe- have them replace them when they warp.

Recomendations??- Oh its a 95 850GLT wagon with 200k... thanks, Dave

 

I always put the best I can afford on when it comes to brakes. I am surprised it is the rear rotors warping, considering the front's do most of the work.

 

So you have this problem on multiple cars?

 

Rear rotors on my S70 have warped beyond being able to have them machined two times in 3 years.

 

Well my old 89 Civic seemed to go through rotors, my 240DL wagon went through them. I'd buy the most expensive ones sold at NAPA (drive past on my daily commute) within a year I'd get a pulse. I think I bought Brembos $ one time (on the 240) and they warped too. Like I said, I'm pretty easy on my brakes and dont do a lot of miles annually. I think the ones on the rear right now are Napa chineese ones. I've never tried having any rotors turned, seems like they are thin enough already, sure to warp if they are turned.

Conversely- the brake discs on my 66 MGB (that I've owned for 22 years) have never warped and have never been replaced! Big thick suckers!

 

nooo. no one recommends that ever. You get what you pay for, pay for cheap brakes, get cheap results, pay for good brakes, get good results.

 

Yeah, thats why I bought the Brembos a while back- and they warped too! So do I buy cheap rotors that warp or expensive rotors that warp?

FCP has genuine Volvo rotors for 63 each, I might try that this time around. D

 

Only thing I can suggest is you might try having them frozen (liquid nitrogen). It changes the structure of the metal and makes them as close to bulletproof as possible. A lot of customers who plow snow or do a lot of heavy trailer towing swear by it.

But never buy the cheapest ones if you can avoid them. They just wear out that much sooner.

Cryogenic treatment utilizes liquid nitrogen to bring the temperature of your racing parts down to -300°F. The parts are then kept at this temperature for 24 hours. This relieves the residual stresses and produces a more consistent and uniform material. The benefits of this process are increased part life, less wear, and improved performance. The most popular applications in motor sports include:
Brake Rotors: Rotors experience several significant improvements. They will warp less and dissipate heat better. The change in the microstructure of the rotor will allow an increase in pad to rotor contact, an increase in lifetime, and a higher resistance to cracking. Now, your brakes will last longer and perform better while improving safety.

 

I don't think I ever have a problem with warped rotors. I don't know how someone could be hard on them unless they drive with 2 feet, one always on the brake.

I usually get PBR pads from iPd.

 

Even then it's usually the fronts you'll warp long before the rears go. I'd think he has a bad proportioning valve that's giving too much pressure to the rear calipers except he said it's been this way on other vehicles too.
Something in his driving style or leaving the parking brake on ??

 

What is your fuel economy like? Maybe your parking brake is over adjusted?

 

Come on guys- I'm not a doofus. I'm not driving with my parking brake on! Parking brake uses little shoes on the inside hub anyway. And the wheels are not over tightened. I bought the most expensive rear rotors at NAPA (marked Made in China on the box- that should've given me a clue) that they sold. They parts counter guys suggested just buying cheaper ones and changing them out every year. Guess convenient NAPA aint so great.

Seems it's like mufflers- the original one a car comes with lasts about 10 years and as soon as you put a new one on (from your choice of auto parts store) they last 2 years and then they are shot.

Yes, I think I'm gonna get those "factory" rotors and see how we go- er stop. D

 

Either that or get them from a Volvo supplier.

 

I had a few sets warp too. I went to cross drilled rotors front and rear. Two years and they havent warped.

 

i brought my car to the track once, after 5 laps of hard driving i had no brakes.. So the sessions done, i go park. All 4 brake pads are smoking, billowing smoke!! Even had to top up my brake fluid when i got home..

No warp at all. im still running those rotors!

NAPA does sell some real crappy parts sometimes, beware.

 

Never called you a doofus, and leaving the parking brake on is more of an opps that I'm sure more people have done than would admit to. It's also something that at the time may have not immediately caused a pulsation but started the rotor down the path of warping. Even though the shoes are small they still build a lot of heat if they are left on and driven but again, you are having this problem as you say on different makes of vehicles with the Volvo being the present one. It was just something I threw out there because it is a possibility. Maybe it wasn't you but son, daughter, wife, neighbor who borrowed it and forgot it for a few miles.
It happens. Over the years I know I've done it on a few cars.
Same with the proportioning valve. It could be a cause of your problem but I doubt you would have the same part fail on you on different vehicles creating the same symptom so it too isn't a very likely suspect but something to check if no one else comes up with anything better.