So some of you know that I just acquired a 96 850 T wagon.

The rear end bounces up and down pretty good, so obviously the rear shocks are destroyed.

It also clunks.

And rattles like an SOB at highway speeds.

How do I tell if the shocks are Nivomat?

Where's the cheapest place to get this thing solid.

The front end has new links, struts, mounts, and some other things.

 

Your Order edit Product Name Part# Price Qty. TotalPrice 1994-1997 Volvo 850 Turbo Bilstein Touring Rear Shock Absorber

BNE-2945-BE $54.86
2 $109.72 1994-1997 Volvo 850 Turbo Aftermarket Rear Shock Mount

9461524 $14.96
2 $29.92 1994-1997 Volvo 850 Turbo Rear Bump Stop Retaining Pin

9157631 $1.93
2 $3.86
Grand Totals: Shopping Cart sub-total: $143.50 Shipping: $15.00 Sales Tax: $0.00 Grand Total: $158.50

 

Totally digging that price if mine doesn't have Nivomat.

I hope it doesn't!


If it does can I just convert it somehow or are the mounting points way different?

 

The difference between Nivomat and not is somewhat easy. The Nivomats will be a real beefy shock the non are alot smaller.

Also you can switch them out if you have nivomats you will just need to find regular springs.

 

>And rattles like an SOB at highway speeds.
I hate it when that happens[:@]

http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-ex...37/by_year/46/

You would be happy with Bilstein Touring. I would stay away from Heavy Duty units; they make the ride too firm.


JPN

 

The Nivomats have a corrugated dust boot around the top of the shock, the non Nivomats don't unless they are some funny aftermarket brand. The Nivomats also have an air line feeding the top of the shock - you can see it if you pull the carpet up from behind the rear seat to access the upper shock mounts.

The clunking may either be bad upper shock mount or bad end links on the trailing arms (delta links) where they bolt to the frame. The latter problem will rattle your dental work. Jack the car up and look for vertical movement at the end links, any movement is to much. The end links are immersed inrubberand, at its worst the rubber is all gone, leaving a flopping around steel ball in a steel socket.

+1 on the TC's - I love mine on the Platinum. They ride great and they handle great.

...Lee

 

I have the 96 version of your car. Platinum Edition. I did the Bilstiens HD all the way around and I enjoy the ride. BTW, I am an ex autoxer and I love a really firm ride. It is a bite stiff when running dry and just me. However, it is a wagon. When I place the bikes on top, gear in the back, people in the car, what a wonderful ride. The only thing I desire is overload springs for the rear to counter balance the sag with the weight. I will probably do front and rear sways bars from IPD.

 

I didn't see any of the end links and stuff on Groton.

 

And the vibration is most prominent at 57-64MPH after that and before that its minimal.

It also leads me to believe I have imbalanced rims (possible)

 

Have them balanced and inspected for being out of round.

 

yeah I wouldn't mind picking up another in case one is bent.

Front driver side has a kink in the lip but isn't into the bead.

I haven't really checked yet.

 

I have HD's on my 745t and love them. To me they are prefect, not to firm, and not to soft.
I also have TME sport springs and IPD 25/25 swaybars to help...
I could careless how firm my ride is...I just want it to preform when I want it to.

 

Yeah this is just my daily with extra fun attached.

I want a smooth ride.

I don't care about the ride in the SC (Well I do because there are ways to make it handle great and ride like stock).

I dont plan on autoXing the 850...hahaha

 

Yeah..

The Bilstein Tourings should do you fine then. and maybe some sport springs.
I would do the swaybars first. You will feel the difference that makes more than anything IMO.
When you want to to do it...IPD bars should cost like $400 for front and rear.

 

.


They are item 42 in this diagram. FCP has them as well.

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/Diagr...4ec3e02456.gif

...Lee