Hey it almost made 30 degrees on wedesday so I decided I'd better do it.
Especially considering how easy it looked.

Well with darkness upon me I did it albeit with a couple of short mishaps.

IT seems I first tried to put it in backwards even after clearly looking at 3 pictures of it in with the flat side facing out.

Luckily it wasn't all the way in but I nicked the outside rear thin edge trying stupidly to pull it back out.

I said screw it and since it seemed otherwise unscathed I set it in, possibly a millimeter too deep -- just passed the edge of the engine entry circle. But one side seemed a little deeper so I wanted it to be even all the way around. Next time I would probably use something matching to push it in. I did it with my fingers.

The I lost the original seal down into the chassis or whatever you call that open area below the air filter.

Today I'll properly test drive it. I really want my Vehicle to make it until a 50 degree spring day before PCV replacement and I still would like to give an occasional transport for $ for my job, so I need to make sure the smell of burning oil is gone and Volvo not leaking.

What I am worried about -- and sorry for the lengthy long winded rant here -- is whether or not my current temporary venting system is adequate.

I thought I was being clever so I picked up a spare oil cap and a couple of those breath filters. However I didn't realize -- even though they are washable -- they they would get coated with oil. So I am kind of wondering if I would be better off just with a rag over the dipstick port. But my dipstick just broke anyway and i have a new one coming. For now I have to use a small visegrip and the old dipstick to check oil.

I guess I do not understand just how much pressure it would take to blow my RMS. Anyway it just so happens that a 5/8 push on breather snugly wraps the top of my dipstick port. I drilled a 5/16 port in a spare oil cap I purchased, which originally I was going to drill a 1/2 hole through but then realized that any bigger than 5/16 would mess up the underside locking bar on the oil cap.

So here I am with a 5/16 "push in" breather which I need a silicone grommet for. Then I realized that the hood may not even close over any more added height to my engine oil cap then this smaller breather. Then I started wondering if these breathers are more designed with intake air in mind.

As you can see I am feeling very compulsive about this whole PCV thing right now. I do not understand just how much pressure is normal operating pressure within the engine and whether my current temporary double breather modification is sufficient to keep me running without danger of further trouble while I order my PCV kit, gather my tools, and wait for a warm spring day...

Thank you very much for helping me...

Here's my Baby you all deserve to see her...

 

Don't you just love the cold weather. Can you find someone with a garage that you can barrow for a couple of hours to replace the PCV?

 

I'm not surprised. I was hoping you would mention a wine cork for your dipstick with small holes. :P lol I've seen it all, and heard it all. Now that you tried to fix the weakest point, the pressure is going to find itself on another weakest point. The PCV system should of been performed first. I had someone drive theirs without the oil cap. :P

 

Wish I did have access to Garage! Considering how acclimated we tend to 'almost' get in the winter here, I might even spring for a warm day in end of March. I'm thinking 40-45+ minimum so I can keep my 'cool' and not lose to many bolts into the snow...

That reminds me I need to finish watching/studying your 2-part series Rspi!

For some reason I am intimidated at removing the fuel rail after 130,000 miles. Thinking you much be able to spray some lubricant in there...

BTW, I think the only way to relieve the smell in the cabin, which is mostly present when idling at light etc., is to run a heater hose off the dipstick all the way to the end of exhaust with zip-ties?

Thanks for the feedback nevertheless I'm trying to be patient and luckily I do not commute to work: I walk. Doesn't mean I do not need my Volvo running though!

 

You should NOT have to remove the fuel rail. Just take the fuel line off on the passenger side.

 

Have you seen this video from FCP?

https:// www.youtube.com/watch?v=otzkZ_f3Y3s

some good ideas on how to remove the fuel rail etc.

 

I've done more than 10 PCV jobs and like the good short cuts. I also avoid taking anything apart that is NOT necessary. The last one I did on a NA took me about 1 hour and 45 minutes, not really rushing. Taking a fuel rail off of the intake manifold is asking for trouble.