I think you ignored my post. It says what to do next.

 

No I didn't. I just wasn't posting on here. I tested the everything. I had 14.5V from the lead on the alternator, 12V on the spade going to it, but I was only getting 11V on the battery. I also added an additional ground to make sure that my battery ground was not the issue, adding an additional ground didn't change anything.

I took apart the positive lead on the battery, and using an ohmmeter, I had signal from the alternator to the battery filed down all the mating surfaces, used a star washer between the alternator lead and the other main lead, used some of that anti-corrosion gel, put it back together. And now I'm receiving a solid 14.5V at the battery. It was all just poor terminal connections, it was getting power, but not all of it.

 

Turns out that wasn't the problem. Although I was getting 12V at the spade, 14.5V at the positive lead at the alternator, and 14.5V at the battery, my voltage was still dropping on the way home, and by the time I got home, my battery light started flickering. I think my last option is a bad ground somewhere. I did ground out the battery to the transmission, however, I don't remember cleaning the transmission before I grounded to it, so it may be possible that it's not getting a good ground. Could this cause it? Should I check all grounds or it will really only be the main battery ground that would be causing this?

 

I would check that connection good. Maybe clean both sides good and see what happens.

BTW got the short shift plate on mine this weekend. Not sure if I really like it or not though.

 

Check the ground you mean? That will be my next thing then, I'll undo the ground, and sand the mating surfaces. I know the alternator is working, and I know it's getting to the battery. So it's gotta be that.


You don't huh? I heard you have to put a good amount of effort in it to shift. I put in skateboard bearings (lol) in the shifter cables this weekend, and I have the solid delrin shifter bushings in the shifter box, I like the feel of the combination.

I'm getting pretty good at shifting. I still have some practice to do for between 1st and 2nd, that one's a little jerky yet, but all the others are great. But I think my 15G is about to take a dump on me. I think the seals are bad in it, maybe I'll rebuild it.

 

Yes the ground.

The shifter feels like the cable is pulled to the side to much and feels tight. I will run it for a week and see how I like it from there.

You smoking? Is that why you think the turbo is about done?

Mine is really pissing me off. I am now only boosting 10 PSI max!! I think the intercooler is that bad now. But kind of between a rock and a hard place with it at the moment. But hey that is life! LOL

 

I'll clean up the ground tomorrow. I'm ordering a nice multimeter so I can check things out. Could the other grounds on the block maybe play into this?

It's not boosting like I feel like it should. Maybe it's because I'm not really getting on it yet, and I think I need to adjust the accelerator pedal a little bit (I found that plastic screw on the back of the pedal, and started playing with it because I've never seen it before. lol.) Then found it adjusts the accelerator cable. And there's oil on the turbo. It's just an excuse for me to hurry up and save for a tune so I can get my 19T on there.

Time for a FMIC!!!! Get a smaller once, I'm running a quite large one compared to most people.

Oh, and I have to redo my cam cover. There's oil seeping up through some of the bolts on the cam cover and coming out that little mystery hold. I guess that's what I get for using non-OEM chemical gasket.

 

Yes the other grounds could be causing it.

I am going to go FMIC when I can afford it. I will have to drive it like it is for now till I can.

But today I also found my one cap I was looking for so I can pressuriuze everything up and test for sure.

Yes the OEM is the shiz.(sealer)

 

Looks like I have some detective work to do. It's gotta be a ground. I just can't think of what else it could be. The alternator was working and everything, it's just like the battery is just being drained even though the alternator is charging.

I'll have to time myself to see how fast I can do the cam cover, since this will be my third time. At least the engine can stay in the car and I just have to undo the timing belt, and remove the cap/rotor and cam sensor. So it's not a big deal.

 

Hopefully it is not to bad for you.

 

Yeah. The main ground from the battery is the only thing I changed from the swap. So it's gotta be that.

 

Your ignoring my post...you missed the last part. I am not toying with the ground. That is not your problem. If your car starts...meaning cranks and you are charging...its not a ground. Regardless....I am trying to help you with your current draw. You have to take a meter and with the car off, doors closed and dome lights off put it inbetween your battery and cable and see what your car is pulling amp wise. If your only pulling hundreths of an amp say around .05 your fine. If it pulls higher than that then you have a current draw.

Do it and report back what you find and I will give you the next step.

 

Ok, between my battery and which cable?

 

Either one. Make sure your meter is on amps. Your flowing the current draw through your meter so you definately dont want to put to much load on it (like trying to start your car). Most meters have a 10amp fuse built in for this reason. Anyway, get it between one of your terminals and tell me what it says. Remember, car closed up and no key on or lights on.

 

Where do I put my multimeter? Like on the positive lead on the battery and then a ground somewhere?

Nevermind, I know what you mean now. I have to go and get a battery for the multimeter since the one I have didn't come with a battery.

 

Well, using my ohmmeter I have resistance from the alternator power lead to the power terminal. With my ohmmeter set at RX1 I had a reading of 50 ohms from the alternator lead to the terminal, and when I tested for resistance between the positive and negative leads at the battery, disconnected of course, I was reading about 10 ohms at RX1. I read that if you're close to 0 ohms between the two leads then you have a short somewhere. Which fuses/relays would relate to the alternator that may cause this? Basically it appears that the charge isn't making its way from the alternator to the battery.

If it is a short, what does that mean exactly? A poor ground somewhere?


And yes Boxpin, I read your posts, but I have to get batteries for my digital mulitmeter, so I'm going off of what I'm finding with my antique multitesters right now.

 

Does not sound like you have a ground issue. What I am asking you to do is check for an amperage draw. Your meter must go between the battery terminal.

I am leaving for Yosemite Wednesday so hurry up.

 

I think I found it. I tested the resistance between the battery and alternator and had resistance. Check the resistance between the starter and battery, no resistance. Checked the resistance between the starter and alternator and had resistance. So, it limited me down to in between there. I figured it had to be a poor connection or a pinched wire. Well, it was neither. Hunting around I found an eyelet that was disconnected from anything underneath the starter. Checked the resistance between that and the alternator, and no resistance. There are supposed to be two power leads on the back of the starter correct? I don't know how I missed it, but I must not have put it back on since it was kinda hiding underneath the starter.

Hopefully this is the fix and then I can move on to my cam cover.

 

Electrical problem fixed (just have to do a couple test drives to make sure I maintain voltage). New gasket for the cam cover with OEM Volvo sealant. No more aftermarket seals/gaskets for me. Never ever. I think I'm going to do new cam seals real soon because the ones on there are from FCP, and I'm pretty sure they're aftermarket.

 

Well, it's all put back together and driving. I have a small coolant leak from the back I have to look at, but that's not a big deal. However, it appears that my 2nd to 3rd synchro is worn. Shifting is butter through all gears when I'm going easy on it, however, when I punch on it between 2nd and 3rd it grinds into gear. Kinda pisses me off. I'm going to try a couple other trans fluids to see what results I get. I'm going to try some GM Synchromesh and some Royal Purple Synchromax to see if that helps, I've been reading on them and have read all good results, hopefully it helps me. I contacted the person I bought my trans from and who did the gear pack swap to let him know of my situation.


I gotta say though, the couple times I really got on her, it was a blast. No traction in 1st and 2nd.