This does not help one bit but thought I would share. I used to have a BMW 535is many moons ago. As some of you remember I worked for 17years as a car stereo installer/Manager. Once I brought some of my tools home in a tote in my trunk. Almost everything I have is Snap-on. I left the car unlocked one night...one night. They stole my stereo then when they traces the other cables to the trunk to get the amps they found my tools...used my own tools to take my stereo stuff then took all my Snap-on tools and left me with a Craftsman screwdriver. I still have that screwdriver to this day. Reminds me but I get angry every time I see it.
Insurance covered the tools.

 

What do you mean 2 of 3 and 2 of 4 for the cam seals? OK, what if I just remove the valve cover, if I don't go any deeper than that, and I just leave the cams alone, do I still need the cam locking tool to take off and put on the cover?

 

Damn, that sucks. I think I would be even more pissed seeing that they used my tools to steal my stuff. My parents insurance will cover it. I'm mad, but, I mean, there's really nothing I can do at this point.

 

I mean in the diagram you posted 2 of number 3 (or the front cam seal etc)

If you are talking about the part the paint peeled off of that it the upper section of the head. It holds the cams in the lower head and provides the upper bearing races for the cams. When you remove it the valve springs will push the cams up and they will just be laying in the lower head and all the valves will close.

When you put it together follow Haynes. The cams have to be secured in the top section after the goop is applied because 4 lobes are just about straight down. If I rememebr right #3 on exhaust and #4 on the intake. I didn't use the sparkplug hole draw down tool because the bolts were long enough and worked fine.

 

Oh, I get you meant with the numbers. I am talking about the painted section. So when I remove the upper head the cams aren't secure, they will be loose? And the cam locking tool holds the cams into the upper head? Making sure I get this right.

And if I did this, do I need to follow Hayne's guide to putting in the cams or wouldn't I just use my own timing marks, since that's the time that the rest of the motor is in?

 

I'd follow haynes, I thought I might try to deviate so I wouldn't need the cam holding tool but once you take a close look then . I made my cam tool in about 30 minutes out of flat aluminum stock bought at home depot. You have to bend right angles to fit in the cam slots but if you have even a small vise no problem. check out the pics on my thread.

 

But if I follow Hayne's, that's going to be different than my pistons and what not?

 

Did you align the timing marks before you removed the belt? If so the cams and pistons are in the right alignment for the Hayne way.

If not, I'd remove the top of Darth Vader, mark (E and I) and remove the cams and remove the spark plugs so your not building pressure, the valves should all be closed and out of the way of the pistons turn the crank slow by hand and stop if you meet any interference until the timing mark lines up with the oil pump mark. Put the plugs back in. Now follow the haynes method.

 

Well, I already have the timing belt off, so does the crank have timing marks that I can line up, I can just do everything separately?

Have you ever heard if the upper heads are mated to the lower head? I was told that on VS and interchanging lower and upper heads could lead to leaking.

 

The crank sprocket has a very narrow cut on the engine side. The mark (line protuding about 1 inch long)on the oil pump is at about 10:30- 11:00.

Don't move anything until you take the top off or you could bend the valves.

I don't really know anything about the compatability. I would lay them side by side and compare. But maybe someone else can give you better advise.

Oh yeah, look in my thread at the picture of the cam sprockets and how I made a reference mark on the cam and sprockets. This made reassembly much easier, just becareful not to get to close to the interface edge, I thought I had but luckly I hadn't.

 

Anyone have Hayne's and can tell me the P/N of T-5 cams and NA cams?

 

Started destruction of the wagon today. Thanks to 850tony for helping me out.











And of course my trunk full of goodies from it.



Proceeds of this is going towards NA cams and powder coating my valve cover. Still quite a bit for sale, don't be shy to ask for parts.

 

You know what I'm asking for .

 

There she be. Once I sort out my trunk full of stuff from this parts run and get my bumper out of there, I'm going to do a last call and then she be going to the jy. Poor baby.

 

I have Haynes but I've never seen part numbers anywhere.

what about this guy for NA cams https://volvoforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37241

?

 

Update:

19T and N/A cam shafts

That is all.

 

Thats all you have to say about that Forest? Whats it mean? Did you score some new toys?

 

I don't understand! Are you getting them? or have you realized that's what you want?!

 

I bought a 19T with roughly 100k miles on it from a babied soccer mom VR, and the guy is also sending me a set of NA cams. I'm going to use an EBC to retard the onset of boost until higher RPMs, and then advance the NA cam timing to give me a stronger low end power band. Basically what I'm saying is that I love my car.

 

You suck