Brand new member here just to ask if anyone has any idea how to fix this problem. I drove it, parked it, and got back in the car five minutes later to find that the key would not turn past position 2 (all lights on, radio works, etc). This is the first time it's happened and I had to tow it back to my house.

Called Volvo and they theorized that it's something with the ignition lock cylinder and it would cost a whopping $500 to fix!

Well, I did some more research online and found a few posts here and there about others who have had this problem and were still able to start the car by taking off the steering cover, removing the electrical part of the switch, and starting the car with the key in position 1 with a screwdriver.

Even if this is a 100% temporary fix, has anyone done this? Success? If so...can someone please give a detailed explanation on how exactly to get this done? (I have pretty much no experience here, but it doesn't sound hard and I have nothing to lose--I have not driven my car in weeks because I really hate the idea of paying for a tow if I can start it.) I mean as detailed as you can possibly be. Pictures if you have them.

I'd appreciate this a lot--it would save me a crazy amount of money.
And the kicker: after trying to get this car to start for so long, messing with the steering wheel and shift lock override and locking and unlocking the doors remotely, I've drained the battery and the lights are dim and flicker. If I can indeed try to start it, what would the jump procedure be?

Thanks guys!

 

I'm assuming you have tried turning the steering wheel while turning the key? When mine is hard against the steering wheel lock the key will not turn. Also, have you tried spraying some lube into the key cylinder? Never tried the the screwdriver procedure you describe so no help there.

The jump is simple enough. Connect the red jumper cable to the + (positive) on the battery of each car. Then connect the black jumper cable to the - (negative) on each car. You connect negative last as it produces almost no spark. The battery will have a big + and - near the respective post. Make sure you see them. Battery cable colors cannot be trusted, especially if you don't know the history of the car.

 

Yes the screwdriver trick is just a temporary fix but there's always a chance of someone thinking you sole the car. But it is the ignition lock cylinder that has failed. You have to drill it out and put another one in.

 

Thanks haha! Yeah, tried the steering wheel--it's not locked. I can get it to lock if I have the key out, put the key in, then not be able to turn the key at all. If I unlock the wheel it goes back to being able to turn to 2.

 

I'd take the risk in this case, at least trying to get it to a shop to replace the cylinder. I'd probably order the part online just because they are so incredibly expensive at the dealer. Anyone have a link to a decent diagram of the area I'm dealing with here?

 

This is an old thread, but I replaced the lock cylinder on my wifes 2004 S40 (old body style) yesterday following the procedure here: Steering lock replacement, 2004 Volvo V40

I took my time, and the procedure was essentially as described. I just replaced the lock cylinder (New Volvo OEM part bought on ebay for $128) reusing the original tumbler (the keyed part) which was fine. My local Volvo dealer wanted to sell me both the lock cylinder and a new re-keyed tumbler which would have been $360 less tax.

Instead of buying 2 new "security" bolts from Volvo, I ended up buying 2 stainless M8 x16 allen button head screws from my local industrial fastener supplier, then ground down the heads to a smaller diameter to fit the counter bores in the top cylinder clamp/mount. I decided no one would want to steal a car this old, and if I ever needed to do this replacement again, I could avoid dropping the steering column to drill and easyout the headless tool-less security screws like I had to do yesterday.

All in all, this is a repair that a shade tree mechanic with some experience and a few tools can do; and you save a grip load of money on labor.

 

Hi - I encountered this problem last week. To be fair my car gave me 3 years worth of warnings before it finally decided that it was no longer going to let the ignition go to pos III.

A couple of important comments:
1- you can get out of this jam temporarily by simply removing the single screw holding in a black plastic circular cap and cream coloured plastic cylinder at the far end of the ignition barrel. To access this you just need to remove the plastic cowling so around the steering wheel (three screws from underneath). This will allow out to start the car with a flat head screwdriver as long as you put the key in the barrel.
2- I'm a patient man but drilling out those shear bolts is really not my cup of tea. Instead assuming you are replacing your ignition module just take a die grinder or angle grinder or Dremel to both sides at the interface between the steering column clamp and the ignition module to cut the two bolts out in 5min or less. Just make sure you cover up all the nearby wiring with some tin foil or other as sparks will fly.

 

This has just happened to my 2003 V40. Note that you do not need to drill out the lock cylinder (tumbler). If you can turn the key to Position 1, you can press-in a release pin on the front of the lock mechanism, which allows the tumbler to be withdrawn, by pulling and jiggling on the key. My tumbler was OK, but the damage was a broken part in the steering column lock (SCL) mechanism. Once removed, you can test the key turning in the tumbler, and in the SCL by using a screwdriver gently inserted into slot in the now empty tumbler housing. Note, the engine won't start because the key "chip" won't be in proximity of the lock. In my case, the broken part jammed the SCL, preventing the key from turning, After removing the jam, the SCL turns to Pos 2, but is still prevented from turning to Pos.3, so the engine won't start. I am considering whether to change the whole lock mech. at $AU 680 (part only) or just installing an additional "Start" switch for $10.

 

I bought a steering column from a wrecker for $50 and used the tumbler from it. Now you have a spare airbag, steering stalk controls if you need them.

 

Good to hear you had a positive result.
I ended up just installing a momentary switch. Works like a charm. I used an illuminated switch, so it is easy to see at night. Security is still reasonable, as the key (with its "chip") still needs to be inserted and in Pos II to start the engine. The only down side is that the head lights (if in the Auto On position) don't go out whilst the starter is engaged. I just switch them off manually before starting. Sometimes I forget, so I guess the battery might die a bit earlier, but that's better than paying about $800 just for the new part.
The new switch needs to momentarily bridge pins 1 and 4 on the ignition switch. The wire colours are 1. Blue-Pink and 4. Green. I used two Scotch-Lock Quick Splice connectors to connect without cutting the ignition wires, but screw terminals or soldering would also work. The current drawn through the new switch was very low. Well below 500 mA , so I think the Volvo starter circuit might by via a semi-conductor/transistor switch rather than just a relay coil. So to minimise any risk of damaging or impacting the transistor circuit, I added two 10K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors in the LED leads. In my connection, with the LED connected across the switch (not directly to earth), it glows whenever able to start (i.e. in Park and Neutral) then goes out when in Drive. One unexpected result is that the LED glows very dimly if I put my foot on the brake. Must get 12 Volts from some back-feed, but does not appear to impact the operation. Has been going well for a few weeks now - will update this thread if it changes. Regards and thanks to everyone who contributes - great information !