buying a 2005 s40 2.4i - my first Volvo - please advise
hey all - im thinking of buying this volvo a private seller is selling. he has owned the car for 6 years. and he's selling it cheaper than market value because he's got no room on the driveway. aside from the rust on both the top parts of the front wheel well / fender area. i couldn't find much wrong with the car. i have never owned a Volvo - and i do not know what to expect.
any help would be appreciated.
any help would be appreciated.
My only complaint with my 2005 T5 is that the radio cannot be replaced with an aftermarket one with a USB port or aux input. Other than that it has done everything I've asked with routine maintenance.
Be careful if you park it outside under a tree (or the previous owner did). The sunroof drains will clog after a time and flood the interior when water backs up.
Be careful if you park it outside under a tree (or the previous owner did). The sunroof drains will clog after a time and flood the interior when water backs up.
My only complaint with my 2005 T5 is that the radio cannot be replaced with an aftermarket one with a USB port or aux input. Other than that it has done everything I've asked with routine maintenance.
Be careful if you park it outside under a tree (or the previous owner did). The sunroof drains will clog after a time and flood the interior when water backs up.
Be careful if you park it outside under a tree (or the previous owner did). The sunroof drains will clog after a time and flood the interior when water backs up.
ended up buying the car today - seems to be well taken care of. no complaints as of yet. except this one part that shakes and makes a noise at idle in D. i've gotta tie that down or tape it or something. a lot about this car - i dont know yet, so im going to do some research.
how often is oil change to be done? what type of oil is required? and how much is an oil change going to cost me?
any special care required for turbo?
thanks
I don't believe the 2.4i has a turbo. The 2.5 liter T5 cars have them. Anyway, I use full synthetic 5W-30 oil and a Purolator oil filter. Mine uses about 7 quarts of oil total. Costs are about $50 for oil and filter if I do it myself.
Here is a video that helps explain how to access the filer element. You will need a 36mm socket to get the filter housing off. It can be done without the socket but it's not easy.
Here is a video that helps explain how to access the filer element. You will need a 36mm socket to get the filter housing off. It can be done without the socket but it's not easy.
[QUOTE=Hudini;375763]I don't believe the 2.4i has a turbo. The 2.5 liter T5 cars have them. Anyway, I use full synthetic 5W-30 oil and a Purolator oil filter. Mine uses about 7 quarts of oil total. Costs are about $50 for oil and filter if I do it myself.
Thanks for the reply and info.
I am already facing my first check engine light. Sucks!
I have only had the car a few hours. All I did was fill 8L worth of gasoline. It was 87 octane. The book said the car is fine with any octane.. Is that the wrong octane I used?
Now what do I do?
Thanks for the reply and info.
I am already facing my first check engine light. Sucks!
I have only had the car a few hours. All I did was fill 8L worth of gasoline. It was 87 octane. The book said the car is fine with any octane.. Is that the wrong octane I used?
Now what do I do?
Last edited by stirderg3; Dec 28, 2013 at 04:48 PM.
I would highly recommend buying an OBD-II code reader. Harbor Freight has the cheapest ones but you can find them at any auto parts house. It will work on all your 1995 and up vehicles and it will last a long long time. Make sure it also erases codes. (I believe they all do)
Option 2 is the cheapest method. Take the car to Autozone or Advance Auto or O'Reilly's, etc. and have them read the trouble code. It's a free service (although more and more will not erase the code once they read it!). They do this hoping to sell you whatever part is busted causing the code.
You did nothing wrong using 87 octane. If the car runs poorly then next time try a higher grade to see if that changes anything. It should not set the check engine light.
=I forgot to mention in my last post that I follow the recommended service interval that Volvo has set. When the "Service" light comes on it's oil change time. After the change you simply reset the light and drive it until the light comes on again. =
Similar to you, I had a brake warning light come on mere minutes after my purchase of my 2005 was complete. Turned out it was a loose plug on the brake fluid low level sensor. Probably one of the reasons the PO sold the car. Ha! Fixed for $0. Now the drywall screw run through the A/C condenser and sealed with caulking? Not so cheap to fix. Stupid PO. Drywall screws! That one still gets me.
Option 2 is the cheapest method. Take the car to Autozone or Advance Auto or O'Reilly's, etc. and have them read the trouble code. It's a free service (although more and more will not erase the code once they read it!). They do this hoping to sell you whatever part is busted causing the code.
You did nothing wrong using 87 octane. If the car runs poorly then next time try a higher grade to see if that changes anything. It should not set the check engine light.
=I forgot to mention in my last post that I follow the recommended service interval that Volvo has set. When the "Service" light comes on it's oil change time. After the change you simply reset the light and drive it until the light comes on again. =
Similar to you, I had a brake warning light come on mere minutes after my purchase of my 2005 was complete. Turned out it was a loose plug on the brake fluid low level sensor. Probably one of the reasons the PO sold the car. Ha! Fixed for $0. Now the drywall screw run through the A/C condenser and sealed with caulking? Not so cheap to fix. Stupid PO. Drywall screws! That one still gets me.
Last edited by Hudini; Dec 28, 2013 at 11:16 AM.
You can take cars to the dealer for pretty purchase inspections. Sure it is costly but they will be able to tell you if anything is mechanically wrong with it and depends on how much they charge they may be able to check for codes. Afterwards you can negotiate the price on the car depending on what's wrong with the car.
I would check the floors for wetness. I have been through correcting all the faulty drain issues only to have water still get in, it seems to come in somewhere at the bottom of the windshield and I don't want to replace the windshield. Other than that I like the car.
I would highly recommend buying an OBD-II code reader. Harbor Freight has the cheapest ones but you can find them at any auto parts house. It will work on all your 1995 and up vehicles and it will last a long long time. Make sure it also erases codes. (I believe they all do)
Option 2 is the cheapest method. Take the car to Autozone or Advance Auto or O'Reilly's, etc. and have them read the trouble code. It's a free service (although more and more will not erase the code once they read it!). They do this hoping to sell you whatever part is busted causing the code.
You did nothing wrong using 87 octane. If the car runs poorly then next time try a higher grade to see if that changes anything. It should not set the check engine light.
=I forgot to mention in my last post that I follow the recommended service interval that Volvo has set. When the "Service" light comes on it's oil change time. After the change you simply reset the light and drive it until the light comes on again. =
Similar to you, I had a brake warning light come on mere minutes after my purchase of my 2005 was complete. Turned out it was a loose plug on the brake fluid low level sensor. Probably one of the reasons the PO sold the car. Ha! Fixed for $0. Now the drywall screw run through the A/C condenser and sealed with caulking? Not so cheap to fix. Stupid PO. Drywall screws! That one still gets me.
Option 2 is the cheapest method. Take the car to Autozone or Advance Auto or O'Reilly's, etc. and have them read the trouble code. It's a free service (although more and more will not erase the code once they read it!). They do this hoping to sell you whatever part is busted causing the code.
You did nothing wrong using 87 octane. If the car runs poorly then next time try a higher grade to see if that changes anything. It should not set the check engine light.
=I forgot to mention in my last post that I follow the recommended service interval that Volvo has set. When the "Service" light comes on it's oil change time. After the change you simply reset the light and drive it until the light comes on again. =
Similar to you, I had a brake warning light come on mere minutes after my purchase of my 2005 was complete. Turned out it was a loose plug on the brake fluid low level sensor. Probably one of the reasons the PO sold the car. Ha! Fixed for $0. Now the drywall screw run through the A/C condenser and sealed with caulking? Not so cheap to fix. Stupid PO. Drywall screws! That one still gets me.
hmm. well i went to my mechanic and had him run the code.. its P0171
P0171 - System Too Lean
That gave me too many results on google. maybe someone here has had this code and knows what to do? I'll be contacting Volvo Canada to see if any open recalls etc. Man i wish previous owner had known Volvo Canada gives an 8 year corrosion warranty. stupid rust on both front wheel arches.. pissing me off lol
just checked and luckily no wetness front or back.
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