Hi. I've just taken ownership (earlier today) of a '98 S70 GLT with ~138K. I got the car on the cheap so I expect some minor issues, especially with an 11 year old car. I'm a huge believer in owner forums/advice and I started trolling these forums last week before I even bought the car.

Anyway, on to the issues...

First thing was that the CEL was on so I hooked up my reader and got a 'pending' P0133...my reader will light a yellow LED if the error is 'pending.' I've read that this can be a nightmarish problem to solve with the CEL never resetting after fixes. Looking for other/newer opions on this.

Next is that the ABS/TRACS off lights are on and the cruise control doesn't work. I've also searched and found most often this is due to a bad ABS module and I can have it rebuilt for about $100-$150. I've also read that if the pads are worn too far, that can have the same or simialr result. My OBDII reader is not picking up any error codes relating to the ABS. Is it my reader? I've read that some readers may not pick up on some types of errors. Mine's an Innova OBDII/Can reader...~$125 unit. Again, looking for other/newer opions on this.

Also, if I remove the ABS module to be rebuilt, can I run the car without it? I've read conflicting or ambiguous opinions...would just like a firm 'yup' or 'nope' from someone who's been there.

Okey...that's enough for now but I'm sure there'll be more later (I know there will...I got a small oil leak somewhere but I gotta take baby-steps here). This should keep me busy for a couple days anyway.

Oh, and I guess the E-brake isn't working as well. What's the deal on repair/replace. Normally when I get a new car I go out and buy whatever repair manuals (haynes, etc....) I can find. Problem is, none of the auto parts shops around here (Portsmouth, NH) seem to have any for the S70 family. Go figure.

Thanks for any advice.

 

Welcome.. S70's are great SOLID cars! You will enjoy it. As far as the ABS module, you can take it off and drive the car, you just will not have ABS temporarily while the module is being rebuilt.No biggie.

 

Yes, it can be a nightmare to reset the CEL.

Just try and order a Chilton manual.

 

Also FYI when the ABS module is out you will have no speedo and odometer.

 

Hmmm...that doesn't appear to be an issue. My speedo and odo seem to be working fine. The ABS/TRACS lights have been going on and off periodically today but no other issues...other than the 'Service' light now comes on ocassionally. I'll hafta keep a closer watch on it.

 

I mean if you remove the ABS module to have it fixed and drive it you will not have those functions.
Sometimes the module will go bad enough to stop the speedo as well.

 

I picked up a '98 S70 last week and have a couple of questions:

1. I have not driven a fwd car in a while. It seems that this car has a low rev vibration. Is this normal? When starting out, rpms between 1300 and 1900 I can feel a vibration all over, mainly on the steering wheel.

2. Does the ABS reduce burn out (like in a fast start) like in the 850 R?

3. Does anyone know a good method of getting the vinly in the door panels fixed?

Besides the questions, so far we all love the car. Since last week we have:
a. Given it a good detailing.
b. I tinted the windows. 20 all the way around. I removed the glass in the doors, just can't get it right with the glass in.
c. Tested the mpg, I got 23.15.
d. Figured out that the odometer is reading about 40,000 miles lower that it has. Oooops, someone made a boo boo (can't believe people still do this).
e. Poped a CEL code, P0303, misfire #3. (on my way to get it fixed now).

Later

 

1. Check the engine mounts
2. No ABS only stops wheels from locking up under really hard braking.STC or tracs does that.
3.Sorry not much unless you totally take the panel apart.

 

Well, I had the ABS module rebuilt by ModuleMaster (great customer service) which cleared up the ABS/Tracs warning lights although the cruise control still does not work. Perf'd a continuity check on the electricals and they all seem fine...gonna check/replace the vacuum line this week. I also reset the CEL and have not had any recurring CELs since.

I still need to look into tightening/replacing the e-brake. How difficult/expensive is this normally?

I also have to replace the left lower control arm to pass inspection. I'll likely replace both sides, though. Any opinion on what brand I should get or stay away from?

Looks like I have an oil leak coming from the gallery. I checked out the sticky on servicing this and decided that I should probably take it to the shop for this.

I was wondering, too, about the engine mounts and whether I should go through and replace them as well.

Thanks for any info/advice.

 

There is an adjustment in the center console for the e-brake.

If there is an orange fluid on the round hydraulic mounts they are bad.

 

Are the control arms 2 or 4 bolt jobs? I have not had a chance to check it out myself yet, just wondering what I should be looking for when I do. This is a 1998 S70 GLT (non-turbo, 2wd).

 

It could be either or. You need to look to see for sure.
Some have 2 bolts that go from front to back through the control arm.
Other have 4 bolts that go through the subframe from the motor side out to the control arm.

 

Uh...all 1998 S70 GLT's have a low pressure turbo...

 

Control arms have been replaced (2 bolts). What an easy job...after figuring out one side, the other went slicker than whale s**t on an ice floe. I still hear some clunking on the driver's side but not nearly as much as before...wondering if it's an engine mount or something I missed.

Still need to track down the cruise control issue. Maybe the brake switch at the top of the pedal? Saw that on another board.

Tightened the e-brake so it works but getting a rubbing sound from the brakes...haven't isolated it yet but I think I'll loosen the e-brake since I rarely use it and just tighten it for state insections. See if that is the issue.

Thinking about changing out the plugs...any suggestions? I haven't searched yet but I will.

Still leaking oil. Was told by oil change guy that it was coming form the pan. Not sure how to comfirm this, but I think I may let a mechanic handle this one...not sure just yet though.

...this low pressure turbo...what is it? Where are the components? How does it function? I see no vac gauges so how do I know if it's functioning properly? Is there anything I should be watching out for?

brakes and rotors will probably need to be replaced sometime in the next year...any suggestions on what brands to use? I see a lot out there, just looking for something more definitive.

Thanks again for all the help. Slowly making progress.

 

Not sure about the low pressure turbo details, but if the car has good pick up it's likely working fine. Not sure why Volvo stop putting turbo guages in most of their cars, probably got tired of people asking questions about them and taking them into the service department for no good reason. Also makes the instrument cluster harder to compact.

If you are not doing so already, you may want to switch to synthetic oil. I believe some oil passes through the turbo unit which makes it a better ideal to use good oil. The manual also stresses the importance of allowing the engine & turbo to warm up and cool down properly to extend the life of the turbo.

Keep whipping that ride in shape.

 

OK...been a while but I rreplaced both control arms...pretty easy once you figure out what you're doing. First one took a while but the second one went on in about ten minutes. The clunking went away...for the most part. There was still a little bit of clunking of heavy road turbulance for a while...now it's getting worse. I haven't had a chance to get back underneath but I'm wondering if it's the engine mounts. I have to do more searching on that subject to find out what to look for. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Still trying to track down the issue with the cruise control. I checked the unit under the battery, the contections at the steering wheel and all seems OK. The vacuum hose looks OK but I couldn''t completely remove it. I snaked the free end from the unit under the battery back up through to the firewall, but I couldn't get at it well enough to remove it (and then to replace, which is why I didn't really push it). I couldn't see and visible cracks or holes. The hose was not dried out, brittle or distressed from what I could see. I tried blowing and sucking on it (knock it off) and it seemed to hold it's integrity. Maybe I'l try replacing the switch at the wheel though that seems OK as well.

Well, that's it for now. Thanks for all the help and advice.

 

What do you mean by Clunking of heavy road turbulance? When you hit bumps? When the car shifts gears? If you feel anything, it is likely a mount is bad. These cars have such strong torque that they do blow mounts totally out.

On my 850, I had two mounts totally torn through. I mean, no longer connected by the thick rubber. One was the passenger side motor mount and the other was the upper engine stabilizing mount. Totally torn through. Have I told you that I had mounts that were TORN THROUGH? Once you replace torn mounts the car will feel different, like new. If you replace one and another one is bad, it will show. Like eliminating weak links. The lower torque mount is one of the common ones as well. I think there are three that are most common problem: 1. Upper enging stabilizer, 2. Lower torque mount, 3. Right side (passenger) motor mount.

Have not had to mess with my S70 cruise control but on my 850, the vacuum lines ran under the battery tray and they were rubbed through by the battery tray. Not sure what engineer decided that was the best place for vacuum lines but whatever.