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Upper Engine Mount

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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 03:33 PM
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SACS80's Avatar
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Default Upper Engine Mount

I was wondering if you guys have ever replaced a Upper Engine Mount on a 6 Cylinder S80 2.9 2004 before?

I do not know what a new one looks like but here are a few pics.

http://img825.imageshack.us/i/dsc2413.jpg/
http://img709.imageshack.us/i/dsc2415j.jpg/

I looking to replace with IPDs offering:

http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?st...D=767&V_ID=654
 

Last edited by SACS80; Nov 5, 2010 at 03:43 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2010 | 02:03 AM
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I have actually been through two upper mounts before.. First was the OEM, then an aftermarket polurethane (much like IPD's) but I destroyed that one within a year or two.. Turns out that my lower mount needed changing as well, and only after doing this did my upper mounts seem to last.
If done right, you will feel a bit extra vibration in the car from the polyurethane mount, but overall it will definitely outlast the OEM rubber design..

I found that the easiest way to install this is to get two ratchets and get a friend to hold one side. Then just heave it as tight as possible.. Also, after a few months come back and make sure its still tight in there.. If this mount is loose its going to put additional strain on the others, particularly the lower, so you may want to inspect that one as well..
 
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 07:36 PM
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Thanks for the info. Who's offering of the lower mound did you use?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 12:38 PM
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from your pictures it looks okay. if they have cracks in the rubber on the thick portions of it (top and bottom). they molding cracks you see on the sides are that way from manufacturing. I have also replaced two of these on mine.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 10:38 PM
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I got a new standalone bushing from rmeuropean for around $13. Came in two havles so no need to press it in. We'll see how long it lasts....

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._D9574DBF.aspx
 
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by travismail
from your pictures it looks okay. if they have cracks in the rubber on the thick portions of it (top and bottom). they molding cracks you see on the sides are that way from manufacturing. I have also replaced two of these on mine.
I can see the manufacturing cracks. But I cannot see any damage to the other areas.

Originally Posted by NoLifeTilBoost
I got a new standalone bushing from rmeuropean for around $13. Came in two havles so no need to press it in. We'll see how long it lasts....
Thanks for the info. I'll check them out.

I'm just going to replace them. 80K on my car now, it cannot hurt. lol
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by SACS80
I can see the manufacturing cracks. But I cannot see any damage to the other areas.



Thanks for the info. I'll check them out.

I'm just going to replace them. 80K on my car now, it cannot hurt. lol
Can someone confirm if the bar should be be loose or tight. ie the bar on my engine will rotate a couple of degrees by hand very easily.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RogerNeedham
Can someone confirm if the bar should be be loose or tight. ie the bar on my engine will rotate a couple of degrees by hand very easily.
This is normal.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 12:09 PM
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Cool, Thanks
 
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