Intermittent stalls at startup?
#1
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Ok. I did my obigatory search on "stalls" but my no luck. Car in question is a '99 V70 T5 with 81K miles. Excellent condition, extremely well cared for, extremely good car.
Problem. Car starts and then cuts off (as if getting no fuel). .Battery new in 2004 and is strong. When running, no problem, strong, sure idle and power, no sputtering or any indication that there's an issue with engine performance. Of course I couldn't replicate the problem when I brought to the mechanic (could be a cold engine intermittent thing, don't know).
Mechanic checked and there were NO CODES. The mechanic (considered excellent in area) suggested replacing the ECT switch (Coolant temperature sensor). His explanation made sense, and $180 later still have the problem. Mechanic then told me that there was a service bulliten on flooding and that as soon as I inserted key into the ignition, I had to start the car immediately or risk flooding. I said OK (but raised an eyebrow)...been driving this car the same way for almost 9 years, never had the problem before. Well, that wasn't it either.
So here I am. I'm thinking it might be some kind of electronic thing. Seems like the engine is being told for some reason to cut fuel flow. I can usually get the car to start after futzing around a bit (technical term) with the shifter by using the park override and shifting to neutral and back. But I'm not sure it starts because of my actions or because some computer somewhere just normalizes and send the signal out that starting is permitted.
If you've stuck with me and read through this THANKS. I'm looking for ideas...electronics, throttle control, fuel injectors? All replies most welcome!
Note: at 75K service dealer did a Campaign 155 Electronic Throttle Software upgrade. This was about 10 months ago, but the problem only started happening about 2-3 months ago (and to my chagrin, with increasing but unpredictable frequency)
Mike
Problem. Car starts and then cuts off (as if getting no fuel). .Battery new in 2004 and is strong. When running, no problem, strong, sure idle and power, no sputtering or any indication that there's an issue with engine performance. Of course I couldn't replicate the problem when I brought to the mechanic (could be a cold engine intermittent thing, don't know).
Mechanic checked and there were NO CODES. The mechanic (considered excellent in area) suggested replacing the ECT switch (Coolant temperature sensor). His explanation made sense, and $180 later still have the problem. Mechanic then told me that there was a service bulliten on flooding and that as soon as I inserted key into the ignition, I had to start the car immediately or risk flooding. I said OK (but raised an eyebrow)...been driving this car the same way for almost 9 years, never had the problem before. Well, that wasn't it either.
So here I am. I'm thinking it might be some kind of electronic thing. Seems like the engine is being told for some reason to cut fuel flow. I can usually get the car to start after futzing around a bit (technical term) with the shifter by using the park override and shifting to neutral and back. But I'm not sure it starts because of my actions or because some computer somewhere just normalizes and send the signal out that starting is permitted.
If you've stuck with me and read through this THANKS. I'm looking for ideas...electronics, throttle control, fuel injectors? All replies most welcome!
Note: at 75K service dealer did a Campaign 155 Electronic Throttle Software upgrade. This was about 10 months ago, but the problem only started happening about 2-3 months ago (and to my chagrin, with increasing but unpredictable frequency)
Mike
#2
#3
#4
#5
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Ok, so my mechanic disagrees with the immobilizer diagnosis. I think the fact that there are no codes throws him when considering this. He's leaning towards the Campaign 155 Electronic Throttle Software upgrade as the possible culprit (given the imterminnent nature of the problem). He's planning to speak to the factory rep and will let me know if they reccomend a reflash. I'll post the follow-up and ultimate (fingers crossed) resolution for those interested. Hopefully it'll be at minimal expense.
#6
#7
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If it's starting and immediately stalled most likely the antenna ring.. It will not set code at times... If a immobilizer sets codes some generic obd2 scanner will not be able to read it... Recall 155 is done free of charge anyway at the dealer it got improved diagnostic software installed to the throttle unit and prevent setting fault code prematurely. If u have ETS light illuminated it would be an throttle module issue and can be related to recall 155..But since u don't and have no codes stored it will not be related to throttle. If your mechanic is that good he would not have u spend $180 on a ECT sensor. ECT will set codes if it were to go bad also it will turn on cooling fan at almost full speed when engine shuts off... If u don't trust me or tech.. take it to dealer and tell them to run a ETM test (diagnostic charge may applied) with the Volvo's diagnostic tool "VIDA" and if pattern is correct and it stayed "on and without going offline" constantly through out and after the test they will not be able to do anything except saying "NO FAULT FOUND"... "I SUPPORT TECH'SPOST 100%"
#8
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I encountered a starting problem in a movie theater parking garage last night (after viewing LINCOLN, a great movie, by the way!). My 2006 S80 started, then immediately shut down. It then would not start for several minutes. Scary proposition in the basement of a garage! After about 5-6 tries, the car started and we were able to leave the garage and drive home without further incident. Since I first acquired the car (bought it new in 2006), it has been a "slow starter," grinding longer in the start-up mode than seems normal. But, until now no problems with stalling. Last night, the "Immobilizer" alert came on but I do not remember the exact wording. Odometer just turned 100,000--now out of warranty. No kidding! BTW, car started fine this AM. Any suggestions?
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schuckles
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01-30-2010 01:44 PM