Window Regulators and ETMs and Radiators Oh MY!
#1
Window Regulators and ETMs and Radiators Oh MY!
First post here. I work on my car a whole lot and I really don't know why I havent signed up for a volvo forum sooner. Love these vehicles.
Got my 99 v70 glt last year, had no problems with it (other than a bad abs module, finally sending that out to get rebuilt) until maybe 4 months ago.
The windows stopped working. It was pretty gradual, they got slow, then eventually stopped. Im glad they quit working in the UP position. Now it just gets that buzzing/grinding sound. I replaced the master switch twice and still got the buzzing, so I moved on to buying a used regulator. Got that hooked up and it didnt work - same sound. the seller assured me that it works, and i have no reason not to believe him since the one he sent me is in the down position and you'd need power to be able to do that.
I just dont know what to try next. I'd love to have windows that work. Got any suggestions?
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Next thing. the quasi-recall of the ETM. I got my car used and i didnt know the date of manufacture. According to the dealer, my car is now out of that 10 year 200,000 mile warranty as of Feb. Of course it had no problems back then. Now i can barely drive the car. I brought it in when it first started and they wouldnt replace it because it was out of warranty. Anyone have any luck whining to them about this and getting it fixed anyway?
My next move is to just clean the throttle body and see if that helps. I've already cleaned the MAF sensor, did nothing. i will also check for vacuum problems.
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Last, how hard is it to replace a radiator? never done it but it looks pretty simple. i imagine all i'd have to do is drain, disconnect hoses, unbolt, remove shroud/fans, put fans on new radiator, slip it in, bolt, connect hoses. is that pretty much it? Is there a radiator thread?
Got my 99 v70 glt last year, had no problems with it (other than a bad abs module, finally sending that out to get rebuilt) until maybe 4 months ago.
The windows stopped working. It was pretty gradual, they got slow, then eventually stopped. Im glad they quit working in the UP position. Now it just gets that buzzing/grinding sound. I replaced the master switch twice and still got the buzzing, so I moved on to buying a used regulator. Got that hooked up and it didnt work - same sound. the seller assured me that it works, and i have no reason not to believe him since the one he sent me is in the down position and you'd need power to be able to do that.
I just dont know what to try next. I'd love to have windows that work. Got any suggestions?
-------------------
Next thing. the quasi-recall of the ETM. I got my car used and i didnt know the date of manufacture. According to the dealer, my car is now out of that 10 year 200,000 mile warranty as of Feb. Of course it had no problems back then. Now i can barely drive the car. I brought it in when it first started and they wouldnt replace it because it was out of warranty. Anyone have any luck whining to them about this and getting it fixed anyway?
My next move is to just clean the throttle body and see if that helps. I've already cleaned the MAF sensor, did nothing. i will also check for vacuum problems.
-----------------------
Last, how hard is it to replace a radiator? never done it but it looks pretty simple. i imagine all i'd have to do is drain, disconnect hoses, unbolt, remove shroud/fans, put fans on new radiator, slip it in, bolt, connect hoses. is that pretty much it? Is there a radiator thread?
Last edited by adamdallas; 06-23-2009 at 04:14 PM.
#2
1. Are the tracks and sliders OK? On my car (not sure how similar your car is to mine) the plastics sliders in the track connected to the glass broke and then of course the window wouldn't work. The sliders cost about $4 apiece, and since you already have the door apart would be pretty easy to replace. I can't tell from the VADIS drawing if you have the sliders or the balljoint just fits into the window track. If you don't have the sliders, I'd check whatever does slide in the tracks to make sure it's moving freely - you might need to grease it.
2. Call the 800 number at the Trew, et al webpage and bitch like hell. They might help you. http://www.etmsettlementdocuments.com/2008/index.html
2. Call the 800 number at the Trew, et al webpage and bitch like hell. They might help you. http://www.etmsettlementdocuments.com/2008/index.html
#4
#5
1. Are the tracks and sliders OK? On my car (not sure how similar your car is to mine) the plastics sliders in the track connected to the glass broke and then of course the window wouldn't work. The sliders cost about $4 apiece, and since you already have the door apart would be pretty easy to replace. I can't tell from the VADIS drawing if you have the sliders or the balljoint just fits into the window track. If you don't have the sliders, I'd check whatever does slide in the tracks to make sure it's moving freely - you might need to grease it.
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