Brake Change Debacle
#1
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Hello Gentlemen,
At the risk of looking like a complete idiot, please allow me to preface this message by saying that I have owned and worked on many cars during my life, so I am quite familiar with how things usually go. That having been said, the most recent car I have ever owned has been a 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ. I am cheap and handy, and a huge fan of simplicity (because I am cheap, and therefore life has made me handy). Therefore, I am not accustom to the newer technology that is used on cars today.
So anyway, I changed the rear pads on my wife's 2017 XC90 AWD today, and wrecked one of the rear caliper piston assemblies. Specifically, I overturned the splined gear while trying to retract the caliper piston, and wound up having to remove the brake line and take the caliper to the workbench. After I got the piston moving again, a bunch of bearings and springs started sprinkling out of the hole where the brake line is supposed to connect. $250 later, I procured a re-manufactured caliper from a Volvo dealer down the road. Hard-earned knowledge in hand, changing the pads on the other rear brake was a quick, smooth operation.
Problem 1 of 2 I am having: HUD is throwing an alarm for "Parking Brake Temporarily Unavailable; also, ABS and Traction Control are deactivated. However, when I try to engage/disengage the parking brake, I can hear the servos moving just fine, and the parking brake does in fact work (putting it into reverse or drive with the PB engaged shows that the car will not move). This leads me to believe that the alarms on the HUD are just artifacts, and needs to be cleared. Any input for this issue? Can I clear these alarms with a regular OBD2 code reader? Or is some obnoxious apparatus needed that will cost several hundred dollars off the internet?
Problem 2 of 2: rear brakes are making a very unattractive noise while stopping, which lingers for a few seconds after releasing the brake pedal. They don't seem to be hung up though, so I am not sure why they are so noisy/scratchy now. Any idea what I may have done wrong? Maybe they just need to be broken in? I only drove it about 1/2 mile with the new pads.
Like I said, I have done plenty of brake jobs before. Rebuilt engines, changed clutches, installed superchargers, etc. I just have not worked on a new, sophisticated car before, so I feel like a bull in a china shop.
Also, the brakes need to be bled pretty badly. Is there anything unusual to keep in mind while doing a brake bleed on one of these things?
Thanks guys
At the risk of looking like a complete idiot, please allow me to preface this message by saying that I have owned and worked on many cars during my life, so I am quite familiar with how things usually go. That having been said, the most recent car I have ever owned has been a 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ. I am cheap and handy, and a huge fan of simplicity (because I am cheap, and therefore life has made me handy). Therefore, I am not accustom to the newer technology that is used on cars today.
So anyway, I changed the rear pads on my wife's 2017 XC90 AWD today, and wrecked one of the rear caliper piston assemblies. Specifically, I overturned the splined gear while trying to retract the caliper piston, and wound up having to remove the brake line and take the caliper to the workbench. After I got the piston moving again, a bunch of bearings and springs started sprinkling out of the hole where the brake line is supposed to connect. $250 later, I procured a re-manufactured caliper from a Volvo dealer down the road. Hard-earned knowledge in hand, changing the pads on the other rear brake was a quick, smooth operation.
Problem 1 of 2 I am having: HUD is throwing an alarm for "Parking Brake Temporarily Unavailable; also, ABS and Traction Control are deactivated. However, when I try to engage/disengage the parking brake, I can hear the servos moving just fine, and the parking brake does in fact work (putting it into reverse or drive with the PB engaged shows that the car will not move). This leads me to believe that the alarms on the HUD are just artifacts, and needs to be cleared. Any input for this issue? Can I clear these alarms with a regular OBD2 code reader? Or is some obnoxious apparatus needed that will cost several hundred dollars off the internet?
Problem 2 of 2: rear brakes are making a very unattractive noise while stopping, which lingers for a few seconds after releasing the brake pedal. They don't seem to be hung up though, so I am not sure why they are so noisy/scratchy now. Any idea what I may have done wrong? Maybe they just need to be broken in? I only drove it about 1/2 mile with the new pads.
Like I said, I have done plenty of brake jobs before. Rebuilt engines, changed clutches, installed superchargers, etc. I just have not worked on a new, sophisticated car before, so I feel like a bull in a china shop.
Also, the brakes need to be bled pretty badly. Is there anything unusual to keep in mind while doing a brake bleed on one of these things?
Thanks guys
#2
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Update:
I bled the brakes and got the pedal nice and tight. However, the scratching/grinding noise is still coming from the right rear wheel (it is the wheel which has the new caliper installed on it). The other wheel sounds fine.
This makes me wonder if there is an issue with the new caliper. Or perhaps it does not open as far as the one which came off?
I bled the brakes and got the pedal nice and tight. However, the scratching/grinding noise is still coming from the right rear wheel (it is the wheel which has the new caliper installed on it). The other wheel sounds fine.
This makes me wonder if there is an issue with the new caliper. Or perhaps it does not open as far as the one which came off?
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