If you bump the starter to loosen the immobilized crank pulley nut, what do you to insure that the engine does not start up? Presumably you disconnect a wire or wires, but which one?


In some YouTube procedures for timing belt change in Volvo 5-cyls the crank pulley is left in place, but only a small belt 'keeper' removed by removal of two 10-mm bolts. I gather it is a little trouble to work the belt in around the back of the crank pulley, but doable as seen by the videos.



What do you think of this? I am not looking forward to trying to get the crank pulley off and then back on.

 

Bumping the starter is not enough to get it to fire off. Got to crank on it for a couple of sec to start the engine. bump is like a half sec its enough to break the 22mm nut loose.
I tried to slide the belt off the crank pulley of my 6cyl (T6) but there just wasn't enough clearance between the crank pulley and a casting off the engine block that protrudes out over the crank pulley, like a belt guide that is in the casting of the block.

 

Hi I need little help to remove the timing belt on my 05 XC90 T6, the bottom of crank pulley is very small and the belt not fit:-( thanks

 

Hello. I just finished installing a new timing belt but had a problem on the initial start up. The new belt is rubbing against the backside of the crank pulley. Even if I loosen the slack just enough to move it all the way to the "back" of the cam sprockets, it will walk right back out there and rub. I even tried really increasing the tension just to see if it would stay in place, and it immediately walked out again in just a few turns of the engine. When it's rubbing, it does look like it's in the same place as the original belt judging from the marks on the cam sprockets.

I was thinking maybe I somehow got the crank pulley too close to the engine. I did have the crank pulley off but it seems hard to install wrong, and the pulley on the crank seems perfectly aligned with all the other accessory drive pulleys. I even checked the width of the new and old belts just to make sure they're identical, and they are...the new one is a Continental and I also replaced the idler, tensioner, and water pump.

Any ideas? I'm stumped and definitely don't want to just let the friction take care of narrowing my new timing belt just enough to not rub!

Thanks again,

Olivier

 

My belt broke on my 2012 S60 yesterday with NO warning. Volvo said the accessory belt and timing belt broke, causing damage to the cylinder head. The quote they gave to repair is $6900. That's a new engine on other models.

 

hi i took the cams of my 2004 volvo xc90 2.9 and to top it off the sprockets now i dont know how to synchronize it to the pulley can you help and also cant figure out how to post on the forum .any help would be apreciated

 

Ok folks:

THERE IS A PROCEDURE TO RETIME YOUR VOLVOS!!! Many who do this and have done this more than once know that you can frequently lock the 2 timing gears with the timing gear lock and avoid having to take off the cam covers on the rear and thusly avoid having to use the cam lock tool. Your all playing with fire for those that have mentioned just dabing paint on the cam gears especially if you have an engine with 2 VVT units.

The big issue is that you can install a timing belt and be one tooth off and you'd never know. Volvos for the most part run just fine one tooth off. The Vida procedure is a PITA, but following it for a first timer is very important. Critical for a 2 VVT engine. The VVT units need to be pretensioned, set, and then the teeth counted to make sure the cams are in the right position. This frequently can't be done unless your using the cam lock bars on the rear of the cams.

I read this whole post and I'm concerned that no one has mentioned the cam lock tool.

I read this whole post and no one has mentioned the crankshaft positioning stop either??????

Just trying to save someone, someplace some grief,.... and for gripes sake, Tech is right about the belts, change them more frequently than you are doing,.... and don't forget the water pump has bearings in them as well, no mention of changing the water pumps? We drive Volvos for a reason, and to hell with those that make comparisons with other inferior brands. I beat the crap out of my S60 dual HP Turbo, and every 70K or so ALL wheel bearings get changed, yes at 180$ per bearing it's a PITA but it's how I roll. And as Tech points out I RELIGIOULSLY CHANGE OUT THE TRANNY FLUID AT ABOUT 70k AS WELL.

 

How the heck did you take off the cam sprokets? Are you speaking about just removing the cam gears/ pulleys by undoing the 3 bolts on each cam? Or are you speaking about removing the whole assembly from the cam by the one bolt in the middle of the camshafts? Cause if you somehow actually were able to remove the cam bolts and the fact that they are torqued to like a million foot lbs., you probably spun the VVT unit thus rendering them useless? Spin a VVT unit on the cam in an attempt to take off the middle cam bolt and you just wrecked the VVT unit. If you are speaking about just the 6 bolts, then your going to need the cam locking tool, cheep aftermarket tool, via E Bay or whatever, 2 or one cam covers for the rear of the engine and a set of Vida instructions particular to your engine. Either find them on the internet or perhaps your local Volvo dealer can print them out for you.

 

I know this is OLD but I was recently told same thing on my 09 xc90. 150k timing chain

 

The easiest technical solution is to have put notched valve recesses on pistons, just like the old days with all American made engines which were all notched when one could put a high lift cam in without worry. Simple solution and it would not impacts performance on bit or impact compression, not that this could not have been easily engineered to have exact compression if that was an issue to begin with. I had discovered the hard way with a seized water pump and it timing belt jumped time and wiped out valves. Simple solution would have saved thousands of owners thousand of dollars, one has to wonder if this was engineered failure. What a money maker it is for the Volvo stealers.

 

easiest solution is to mind the maintenance intervals and service the pulleys and tensioners as part of the job. Volvos are not the only cars with interference engines that use timing belts.

 

yep... I'm at 252K on my '04 and the 3rd set of tensioners, belts and pulleys... about to be 4th set.