By the "stop pin" do you mean the small pin at the back which fits in the small hole in the back, is spring loaded and covered by the small light metal dome?


If so, I don't think the absence of this will have any effect on the operation of the lock. Based on a locksmith video this pin is properly called the "relocker pin". I have not found a specific explanation for the function of the pin, but based on it's name, its function would be to thwart theft by preventing the lock cylinder from being pried out. In locksmith terminology a "relocker" is a system which engages pins to prevent the locked door (e.g. door of a safe) from being opened if the normal lock is forced.


I removed the relocker pin from my wife's XC90 and the ignition switch has functioned properly without it for a couple of years.


The one concern I have is the possibility that the function of this pin is as backup system to prevent the steering column lock from engaging when the vehicle is underway. But I really don't think this is the function.

 

Bought the Volvo Ignition Key Cylinder Correct for my car and it started right up. Do not be a hardhead fix it yourself like I was. If it sticks, get the new cylinder and change it. Hands down......Thanks for the telling me I am wrong advise and yes I was wrong BUT I have always heard that education is not cheap......

 

This is an old thread but I have good news for you guys...

The fix is FREE, all you have to do is to remove the bottom rectangular plate and the spring.
All it takes is 30 min or so.
Detail below:


DIY: 1998 S70 GLT Ignition Tumbler FREE Fix!
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...c.php?p=351720

 

I didn't have a Dremel rotary tool to relieve the three peens in the pot metal which hold the steel plate on. I tried using an electric drill and it worked for me. I drilled at the peen punch holes, angling toward the plate. I was able to hook out the broken chip which was jamming the mechanism, so I was able to tap the plate snug again (although it would not go back flush to its original position).


I left the coil spring in place.


If one cannot get the chip out, then one should not attempt to tap the plate back into place. Just let it hang loose.

 

There are too many hits on this "ignition lock cylinder" thread to allow me to think that Volvo does not know there is a design flaw here.
Mine is a 2001 V70 T24.
The problem has existed for 4 yrs. recently it would not turn at all.
I unlocked the steering column, moved the shaft to a different position, fiddled with the key and got it to turn.
Next day I locked the steering wheel. Could not turn the key. Again, I changed the position of the steering column, and the key worked. Now I am careful to never allow the steering wheel to "lock" and so far (only two days) so good.
I have no money to fix this. Also in new town, and do not know the lay of the mechanic land.
Any ideas? is it the lock, the steering or what?

 

Did you look at the FREE fix I posted above (post #43) above?
To see the photo at matthews volvo site, you need to register overthere.

 

RE: DIY: 1998 S70 GLT Ignition Tumbler FREE Fix!
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...c.php?p=351720

Good fix for some, but may not work for later models.

 

My 2004 XC70 (156k mil) just had this problem, the key wont turn, upon exam, the relocker seal cap popped, the stop-pin and spring fall off. I dont know if that was the root case of key not turning. I did try to put back the pin, but it did not seem to fix the key turning, and it was parked at a garage 30 min away from home...

so I ended up get it towed to dealer. the estimate cost is , $860 ! new lock cylinder, reprogram... I could have it towed to home and try to fix it myself, with holiday season coming up, I just want it a problem solved by $ ...

Speaking to design a defective product and making money off it. My faith in Volvo is taking a hit, I am not sure if my next car will be Volvo or not...

 

As I watch the video of remove and disassemble the ignition lock; at the part that they needed two persons to push 4 pins in to pull the key cylinder out: He could cut head of 4 finish nails that fit the drilled holes, put a hose clam wrap around the pins then turn the clam nut in, it will push and hold the pins in, not need two person for that job.

 

FYI (you aren't alone)

My 2007 XC-70 has the old key interlock design, which failed as you described, at 85,000 miles. I was lucky to be at a gas station. Nothing I did would release the lock, so I had the car towed ($150) and I paid a Volvo dealer $600 to replace the ignition switch assembly (2015).

It is a known problem and the lock assembly has a tendency to fail. The Volvo mechanics told me that a detent was broken. It is the only thing that has ever broken on the car, so I'm disappointed, but not unhappy.

The thing is, most luxury cars (and a lot of less expensive cars) were already using keyless push-button engine switches in 2007. Volvo and Mercedes have been slow to adopt the almost universal standards in electronics, car management computers, entertainment systems, and phone services.

 

newbie here: trying to fix same problem (key won't turn at all). been reading numerous threads on the web, including this relevant one here.

was in the process of filing back the crimps on the flat metal plate on the bottom of the ignition (still in car -- really hoping not to have to remove and deal with the security bolts) when this piece fell out onto the floor.





i assume this is the relocker pin? key will turn now... so i'm wondering if this was the problem and i can put everything back together, or if more likely i also have broken tab inside still and this was just a secondary problem?

btw, where exactly does the relocker pin go (and i don't see a spring anywhere).

thanks in advance.

 

I cannot figure out how to start a new post - Help

 

button that says "new thread" at the top of each forum page...


FWIW, i'm all fixed up now and good to go. i took a chisel to the crimps along the perimeter of the plate on the bottom of the ignition switch, and was then able to pry out the plate enough to retrieve the infamous broken tab piece. because i didn't use a drill or dremel, i was also able to tap the plate back into place afterward.

key now works better than ever (knock on wood) and i still actually have steering lock. not entirely sure what that "relocker pin" does that fell out, but apparently it isn't necessary for basic functionality of ignition.

nice to save a few hundred bucks thanks to the interwebz!
:thumbsup:

 

I intentionally removed the relocker pin in our XC90 in an attempt to free the lock, but this did not work. What worked was to loosen the bottom plate. I subsequently was able to hook out the broken off chip and press the bottom plate back in place. But if you do not remove the chip, then I think it is better to leave the bottom plate loose. If you press the plate back into place with the chip still lodged in the mechanism, then the lock may jam again.

I saw no reason to reinstall the relocker pin because IMHO it is overkill on security. I think the relocker pin is there either to prevent the cylinder from being forcibly extracted or to prevent the system being operable if the cylinder is removed by force. I don't think that is likely enough to warrant trying to reinstall the relocker pin. And I have the spring and press fit cap, but in your case it is lost. The pin fits in a hole on the firewall side of the lock body.

 

I have a 2003 C70 with a work tumbler - tried a new key.

I am considering replacing the tumblers / barrel with a used lock.

I have seen on a forum in the past that the original key (with chip) can be fixed to the barrel and any lock & key can be used.

Is that true? My "ring" reader only seems to read my key when it is IN the lock - not near it

 

Excellent video,
can anyone tell me what the "RE-LOCKER" does ?

The lock on my 2003 C70 is worn, can I simply remove the 'tumblers' (if that is what they are called) that the key moves and have a lock that does not lock?
I also do not need ot want the steering lock - can I leave that out too?

 

I had this problem about 4 years ago, and had seemingly managed to eventually fix it by flooding the cylinder with oil. I had also dropped that square bottom plate, but I don't think that helped very much. I don't remember all the details anymore, but I do remember that it suddenly seemed to fix itself after a few days of doing all the usual tinkering that's suggested as possible solutions. The problem had been resolved for all that time, until a few days ago when the key was beginning to refuse to turn from 0 to position 1 again. I could get it to turn by slamming it into the keyhole, but it was concerning again, so I started working on it again.

Without giving it a whole lot of thought, I sprayed some marine silicone spray that i had on hand into the keyhole. That really froze things up!!! I could barely get the key to turn at all after doing that. It just kind of locked up after doing that. So, once again, I pulled the assembly out of the car (after removing the starter switch). After re-familiarizing myself with the assembly, I decided to try flooding the lock cylinder with 3in1 oil. It didn't seem to help very much at all, and I found myself eventually driving around by starting and stopping the car with the proverbial screwdriver in the disconnected starter switch.

Then today (2 days after I did the oil flooding), I removed the assembly from the car again- intending to try removing the lock cylinder, and maybe even removing the tumblers, or whatever it took to finally eliminate the problem.

I was amazed (and joyed) to find that the key was now turning very easily and smoothly! Two days later! I kind of think that's what also happened 4 years ago. This time I plan to also pick up some powdered graphite and add that to the mix, since that can be a pretty effective, durable lubricant, and hope that I never have to deal with this problem again. I'm going to mix the oil and graphite together before flooding the cylinder again- hoping to deliver the graphite to all the internal interfaces.

So, for what it's worth to anyone with the same problem: Try getting the lock cylinder well flooded with a good lubricant, and give it plenty of time to spread throughout all the tumblers, etc, before you do anything dramatic. (Suggest sliding the radio antenna off before you do the oiling.) I'm sure some of the pros here would have some good suggestions on what lubes to use.