Replaced the VVT solenoid on a 2001 S40.

 

Got fed up with shimming the compressor so finally bought a new one and installed it.

 

I am planning on replacing the drip moulding on the left rear window of my 2009 s60 but I am unsure on how to do it. If i understand correctly its just clips holding it in and it pops right out. Anyone else done this themselves before?

 

replaced the heater core in our '97 850 awd
easy job thanks Robert DIY
Hank

 

I went to a car wash and had my air freshener haha love the new fragrance

 

I just installed a new lip on my car, check out how it looks .

 

For the last few days I've been installing the bevel drive and the freshly rebuilt Colorado Drive shaft. To make the '97 850 AWD again .
Dashing through the snow
cheers
Hank

 

I got 2000km on the car since I nought it a couple of weeks ago. Changed the spark plugs yesterday -- the rear bank was a bit of a challenge. Also changed the oil + oil filter, went with MobileOne Synthetic 5W30.

 

The s60 is unfortunately going to the scrapper, spent some time this morning pulling out the aftermarket headunit and speakers, removed the seats front and rear and thinking of other parts I might be able to remove that are worth some money. The car is being picked up Thursday as a rolling shell, engine and transmission are already out.

 

Changed the oil and transmission fluid. Tomorrow, will have an alignment.

 

I started a thread about the 98 T5 5 speed, in the S70 section. I got it drivable, have driven it since this weekend, shaking stuff down. It is very fun to drive. I ordered a heater core today. It's not dripping antifreeze, but I can sure smell it, so I am going to go ahead and swap it.

 

My '89 744 had cut springs from a PO...I fixed that. I swapped them with the strut assemblies from my parts car. Also changed the ball joints...outer tie rods...sway bar links and radius arm bushings.

 

Dytha, I had my tie rods replaced after I slid sideways off an icy road. Afterward, the axle hissed loudly on every right turn. Any idea what that was? (Past tense because it stopped after about a year).

 

My 98 C70, 54k miles now. My noise was an axle bearing, so I replaced both front axles and bearings. Front end alignment, done. Virginia to Mississippi, 1000 mile drive 70+mph, no problems or noises.

 

I really don't have any ideas on what it was but stopping after a year makes me think something rubbed itself away....rubbed to the point that it no longer was able to rub...but what it was i don't know.

 

1989 744, changed the spark plugs. Changed the oil and filter and cleaned the flame trap. Replaced vacuum lines from flame trap to manifold and from fpr to manifold.

Inspected the vacuum hose from the check valve to the front bumper...and while moving stuff around i put my hand on the maf...and it was HOT.

So I found that the flapper door in the air box was stuck in the direction of the pre heat hose. Removed the pre heat hose.

 

Fixed my ETM with a rebuild kit from ARD tuning. Running like new again!

 

Replaced oil trap, MAF, condenser and drier. Tomorrow I'll charge with freon.

 

If you have to add Freon to the A/C system, ensure the drier filter has been changed in the last 5 yrs. and vacume the system to remove any impurities in the high and low pressure lines. Any existing Freon before this effort must be removed. Doing this every 5 yrs. will help keep the cool temp down to maximum cooling and preserve the components attached. JMHO. Certified Universal and auto A/C tech 22 yrs. I do this to my home A/C also. I have my own vac pump and recovery unit. I keep a simple temp probe in 1 air vent of all my vehicles so I can monitor the temp in any mode at a glance. Sometimes just a fresh shot of Freon 12 or 134a is required to max system performance. My certification is federal for life, so I don't have to do yearly renewal, but had to take a week long class on new 410 coolant for residential yrs. ago.

 

Put some masking tape on my fuel cap and wrote "fuelly" on it since I keep forgetting to record my fuel stops.