1981 Volvo 245 stalling after cold start
My 245 will start up right away and run for a few seconds before stalling out. I can restart it immediately but have to keep feeding it fuel in order for it to run. Once it warms up, it runs fine and I can shut it off and turn it back on with no problems. The issue has intensified in the last few weeks and it seems to be worse when I'm low on fuel.
Basically it can't cold start and idle unless I have my foot on the gas.
I'm guessing it may be a faulty fuel pump relay.
Any other ideas before I start ripping parts out?
Thanks in advance !
Basically it can't cold start and idle unless I have my foot on the gas.
I'm guessing it may be a faulty fuel pump relay.
Any other ideas before I start ripping parts out?
Thanks in advance !
If you suspect the fuel pump relay, you can jumper the relay to see if that helps. My experience is relays usually fail when they warm up not when cold (worn pumps can draw too much current which overheats the relay and it opens up). I'd also look into the engine coolant temp sensor (there's resistance charts online) as well as checking for any intake air leaks. Not sure if your 245 has the K-Jet or similar FI system (similar to older BMWs, VWs and Audis) - those cars had an extra enrichment injector to that would give a bit more fuel when cold to help it start as well as an idle air valve that could stick open making the car run too lean when cold. Could be you are starting with the extra fuel for the firest few seconds but then the car goes lean on a cold engine. You can try cleaning the idle air valve, checking for intake air leaks - vaccuum lines, injector seals, air boot etc. Also how good is the spark? check plugs for gaps, wires, rotor, cap.
if it was the fuel pump relay, giving it throttle would not help at all
a 1981 is a K-jet car, and the CIS fuel injection is completely different than later LH cars with EIS/EFI.
I believe there's a cold start injector on those, which is on a thermoswitch, and serves to richen the mixture for the first 10-20 seconds until the car is sufficiently warmed up to run on its own.
the other candidate would be the idle air controller, I assume it has one (my CIS Mercedes has one, and I believe my old CIS VWs did too)... if this is gummed up, it might not be able to open when cold to effectively boost the throttle.
and yeah, an ignition tuneup is always a good idea to get the engine back to a baseline, especially if you don't know how long its been since the last one.
a 1981 is a K-jet car, and the CIS fuel injection is completely different than later LH cars with EIS/EFI.
I believe there's a cold start injector on those, which is on a thermoswitch, and serves to richen the mixture for the first 10-20 seconds until the car is sufficiently warmed up to run on its own.
the other candidate would be the idle air controller, I assume it has one (my CIS Mercedes has one, and I believe my old CIS VWs did too)... if this is gummed up, it might not be able to open when cold to effectively boost the throttle.
and yeah, an ignition tuneup is always a good idea to get the engine back to a baseline, especially if you don't know how long its been since the last one.
2 out of 2 doctors concur :-) I'd be looking for air leaks to start - the idle air valve, around the injectors, vacuum lines, air intake boot. If you pop off the intake boot you'l see a round metal plate that does the air metering. you can clean around that with some carb cleaner if dirty. Just a note on the idle air valves on the K-Jets - when its working it will have a slight hum (you can put your hand on it and feel it vibrate). If you unplug it, it will stop. Pop it out, clean it up with some carb cleaner and drop it back in.
re cleaning stuff.... I see people throw around 'carb cleaner' pretty often. Now, what I think of as carb cleaner is the paint-can sized bucket with a basket inside that you put carburetor parts in and let soak a few hours.... that stuff is WAY too nasty to be using here. what you /want/ is throttle body cleaner as sold for cleaning fuel injection components, often in a spray can. this is relatively safe around plastics and electrical components.
Thanks for your expertise guys, really appreciate it.
Think I narrowed it down to the coolant temperature sensor..
Just to be sure, this is the CTS right?
[img]blob:https://volvoforums.com/ac769c66-6c9e-445d-98f4-34fcbd0b0c87[img]blob:https://volvoforums.com/cdb87478-166a-4f61-a67f-dbe6338ad55d
Last edited by spenc9310; Nov 19, 2019 at 06:06 PM.
LOL about the bucket of parts cleaner. Brought back memories of rebuilding the 2bbl carb from my parent's 67 Chevy on the kitchen table with my dad. So yeah, I was thinking of something like a spray can of Gumout carb and choke cleaner. For newer cars with MAFs, even that is too harsh, there's less volatile products like CRC's MAF cleaner...
Gentlemen. I also have received invaluable advice and guidance from Pierce , Lev, and other enthusiasts for which I am truly grateful. In regards to the photographs provided, is that the CTS he has circled?
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