1988 244 DL - Change Cam Front Seal

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Old 07-14-2013, 01:13 PM
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Default 1988 244 DL - Change Cam Front Seal

I am going to attempt to change my camshaft front seal today. My funds are limited and I have everything I need except a torque wrench. Can I get away without it? I would need it for the camshaft flywheel I think (I don't have my manual on me ATM.) Would just tightening it down real good work?
 
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Old 07-14-2013, 08:48 PM
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I wouldn't be worried. I've swapped trannies, change seals, done timing belts, you name it and haven't used a torque wrench yet. If I had one, I would use it, but haven't wrecked a Volvo yet just using my best judgement.
 
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:52 PM
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I agree. I only torque head bolts. You don't need a torque wrench as long as you have some feel for what you are doing. Don't overtighten, either. The crank bolt is a tough one, you can't really hurt it. How do you plan to get that off?
 
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:09 AM
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I didn't plan on getting the crankshaft pulley off. Now it's at the dealer. I didn't have the right tool to secure the crankshaft. Therefore I couldn't get the lower timing belt cover off. The timing was messed up because the intermediate shaft spun so easily. I feel stupid for attempting this repair without the proper tools. I got the terms crankshaft and camshaft confused and missed a whole step. An expensive lesson.
 
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:13 AM
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If you ever feel like giving it a shot again, and don't want to buy the tool, I've used the rope method numerous times. Just stick a narrow, durable piece of rope down spark plug hole number one and turn the crankshaft until it compresses the rope and can't turn anymore, then you can break that bolt loose on the crankshaft pulley.
 
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:28 PM
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Amateurs pretty consistently overtorque small bolts and undertorque big ones.
 
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by pierce
Amateurs pretty consistently overtorque small bolts and undertorque big ones.
This is true, I remember snapping a few of the 10 mm bolts back in the day.
 
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Old 07-17-2013, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by AnEskimo
If you ever feel like giving it a shot again, and don't want to buy the tool, I've used the rope method numerous times. Just stick a narrow, durable piece of rope down spark plug hole number one and turn the crankshaft until it compresses the rope and can't turn anymore, then you can break that bolt loose on the crankshaft pulley.
Is this true? How does it work? The piston can't complete it's cycle therefore it won't turn over? I assume it would have to be nylon rope.
 
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:00 AM
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This does work - I have used it before. The type of rope really doesn't matter but yes, I did use nylon rope. One thing you need to make sure is that the cylinder is on the compression stroke. I always put #1 cylinder to Top Dead Center (check both the distributer and timing marks on the pulley). THen back off a bit in the opposite direction you are torquing. Then feed the rope in the plug hole. From there you can loosen/tighten the crank bolt.

If you don't have the cylinder on the compression stroke, you can bend the valves so be careful.
 
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Old 07-17-2013, 01:11 PM
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note that if you use VOLVO brand seals, you shouldn't need any RTV. if you use aftermarket, all bets are off.
 
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Old 07-17-2013, 05:24 PM
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Default pulley tool

Buy this tool....saved me a bunch and it was easy enough to use....

cost 8.99 at harborfreight.com

works on Crankpulley, Camshaft and Intermediate.....

they also sell a torque wrench for 19 dollars.....

I KNOW IT IS CHEAP STUFF BUT IT WORKS FINE WHEN YOU ARE STARTING OUT OR NEED TO DO THINGS ON A TIGHT BUDGET....

I Feel more confident using a torque wrench than not using one.....but yes, on certain applications you use your hand feel to gauge how much to tighten....Valve cover would be a hand feel scenario.....
 
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