1992 Volvo 240 GL OEM Foglight Wiring

Old Jan 5, 2025 | 04:34 PM
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Default 1992 Volvo 240 GL OEM Foglight Wiring

Hey guys! So I'm New here But Just kinda hang in with me.

I just bought a 1992 Volvo 240 GL, It has a Fog light switch In the dash that does appear too be wired with OEM connectors, Aswell as illuminating when switched on with the headlights on. However there are no fog lights on the car.

My Question is, Where would the OEM fog lights plug in? I found an unplugged rotted connector behind the grill that has no power on no matter what, So I don't believe its that harness.

Looking at the switch, Theres a purple wire in the OEM harness that dissapears into the dash, Where can I find that wire under the hood? Where would the OEM fog lights plug in? Is there a fuse under the hood somewhere Im missing?
Unknown Crusty wires with no power
Unknown Crusty wires with no power
Pre-wired Switch with unknown Wires
Pre-wired Switch with unknown Wires
 
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Old Jan 5, 2025 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Saiko
I just bought a 1992 Volvo 240 GL, It has a Fog light switch In the dash that does appear to be wired with OEM connectors,
That's your REAR fog lamp switch. With low beams and that switch on - the rear upper inner red lenses light up with a 21 watt bulb. (unless the brake lights have been moved there due to melted taillamps at the brake light socket.) They are to help others see you in poor visibility conditions. Should not be used all the time - they can be confused for brake lights.

The front fog lamp switch is a green or blue lensed rocker switch in the center console - if equipped.

Those wires behind the grill might go to the electric fan in front of the radiator ( if it's still there) The fan is turned on with a black relay under the hood.

 

Last edited by hoonk; Jan 5, 2025 at 05:49 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2025 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by hoonk
That's your REAR fog lamp switch. With low beams and that switch on - the rear upper inner red lenses light up with a 21 watt bulb. (unless the brake lights have been moved there due to melted taillamps at the brake light socket.) They are to help others see you in poor visibility conditions. Should not be used all the time - they can be confused for brake lights.

The front fog lamp switch is a green or blue lensed rocker switch in the center console - if equipped.

Those wires behind the grill might go to the electric fan in front of the radiator ( if it's still there) The fan is turned on with a black relay under the hood.

Holy crap! Didnt even know thats what it did! And both rear fog lights works! Thats pretty interesting.
As for the wires behind the grill, There is no auxiliary cooling fan present. The engine runs cold alot even with the proper thermostat so I have too look into that next.
Yup, Dont have a green or blue switch, Guess its time too start wiring, And also replacing those Rear fog lights with LED's, Ive got original tail lights and wiring and they work great and Id rather them STAY that way. No melting on my time.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2025 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Saiko
There is no auxiliary cooling fan present. The engine runs cold alot even with the proper thermostat so I have too look into that next.

And also replacing those Rear fog lights with LED's,
Ive got original tail lights and wiring and they work great and Id rather them STAY that way. No melting on my time.
Your car came with an electric fan (pictured below) It probably broke and was removed. The temp gauge on your car is known to not be accurate. The temp compensation board in the instrument cluster is usually the problem. It's designed to artificially make the gauge read lower when the AC is on. The gauge will be inaccurate at other times also. This page has info to remove/bypass it -

https://cleanflametrap.com/tempFaker.html

If you replace brake or parking or low beam headlamps with LEDs you will get a bulb out warning. Although by this point many of those cars have had a wire cut going to the bulb out relay - making the bulb out system not work.





 
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Old Jan 6, 2025 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by hoonk
Your car came with an electric fan (pictured below) It probably broke and was removed. The temp gauge on your car is known to not be accurate. The temp compensation board in the instrument cluster is usually the problem. It's designed to artificially make the gauge read lower when the AC is on. The gauge will be inaccurate at other times also. This page has info to remove/bypass it -

https://cleanflametrap.com/tempFaker.html

If you replace brake or parking or low beam headlamps with LEDs you will get a bulb out warning. Although by this point many of those cars have had a wire cut going to the bulb out relay - making the bulb out system not work.

The bulb out relay is actually new and responds too my lack of reverse lamps, I wanted too keep it so EVERYTHING in the car functioned as it should but I might remove it in the future when it bugs me at the wrong time.

I will definitely look into getting a new cooling fan assembly! None of the parts in that picture are present on my car, Only the old school mechanical fan. Where might that relay be located? What does it look like? Standard Bosch-style?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2025 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Saiko
1. The bulb out relay is actually new and responds to my lack of reverse lamps,
2. Where might that relay be located? What does it look like? Standard Bosch-style?
1. bulb out relay only cares about the 4 rear parking bulbs, 3 brake light bulbs and the 2 low beam filaments. If the bulb out comes on at any other time - that's being caused by a bad connection, misswired something, wrong bulb, bad ground -
2. check prancing moose.com
https://www.prancingmoose.com/volvor...relaylocations
 
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