Hey everyone,

I'm new to volvos and new to this forum. Forgive me if this post isn't in the correct spot. I'm hoping some of you experts can help me out.

A little backstory, the previous owner replaced both fuel pumps and the fuel accumulator. I found leaky injector seals so I got new Bosch injectors, new seals and holders. After that and fixing a huge vacuum leak it runs and drives great! It starts right away when cold (although idles very low until warm unless I adjust the **** under the intake all the way out and adjust it back in after it's warmed up) but the starting issue I'm having is after driving it say 20 minutes or more and then letting it sit 5 minutes it will crank for 30 seconds or more before it finally fires and I'll push the gas and it'll idle up and run fine the whole way home. I haven't found any other vacuum leaks but I did notice most of the vacuum lines don't seem to have good vacuum when i put my finger on them, unless I Rev the motor. Any help is greatly appreciated!

It's a 1979 volvo 245 DL wagon with the 2.1 k jet motor.

 

Go here https://ozvolvo.org/archive and download everything you can find relating to a '79. Also, try and find a parts manual that includes English. Some of the stuff isn't labeled so you just have to browse them.
Don't tinker with what you don't understand. Volvo's were quite sophisticated for their time. Many of their systems are Bosch. Their nearest relatives technically were BMW, Mercedes, and Porsche.

 

Poor hot start on a CIS car can be caused by low/no rest pressure. You need a compatible fuel pressure gauge to be able to test that.

 

Thanks! I have several fuel pressurpressures but just not quite sure where to tee in for best results.

 

Fuel pressure gauge for that car connects between the fuel distributor and the control pressure regulator. You need a 3 way valve to check line, control and rest pressure. Video below is done on a VW with CIS - The connection of the top of a Volvo non turbo fuel distributor - is much harder to get to!

 

Thanks for that video. That's the exact tester I have. I will test pressures and report back. Looks like I'll be removing the intake for this, is that correct?

 

NO - Don't touch that rubber bellows or anything connected to it! You will end up damaging it, then having to find a replacement!

 

the rubber Bellow already has a crack in it. I've been trying to find a new one. So I shouldn't remove the intake?
side note ive been working on cars for 20 years professionally so I'm not a novice, I just don't know this car so everything on it is a learning curve for me

 

If there is a crack in the bellows - and it's letting unmetered air in- the mixture will be off - designed to be a perfect seal.

I've never removed the intake manifold to check fuel pressure. You will want to run the engine while checking pressure and - of course that will be impossible with the intake manifold off.

I've certainly removed many intake manifolds to replace bad manifold gaskets - but not to simply check fuel pressure on a CIS car.

 

awesome info and thanks for your help! The only ones I could find were 300 dollars and in europe. Thank you! If it can be done without the intake off I will work on that when I get some time this weekend. Now the volvo won't even start so I definitely won't be doing anything else til I get fuel pressures

 

The bellows is designed to channel the vacuum at the throttle plate to the fuel metering plate - no/low vacuum due to a tear = no fuel metering plate movement = no fuel from injectors (other than the cold start injector under certain conditions.)