i'm a guide and travel more than most. my 85 wagon is my truck, my commuter vehicle, and sometimes my house. when she gets sick, i get scared. i acquire the "good times assault vehicle" with 274,000 miles on it, and now its at 284k in a little over a year. i would love to have a vehicle that makes it to 500k+, but i'm gonna need a little help along the way.
question 1
when i change the oil, i run a little B12 chemtool(tolulene) in the crankcase for about 15 minutes before the change to help loosen up the gunk and crud to keep the inside clean. then i add some 10w40 with about a pint of Lucas to keep the oil thick and lubricated(mostly mtn driving). however usually right after an oil change, when going uphill with a load, i notice oil coming out of the oil filler lid. someone said this could be a PCV valve problem. i cant seem to locate the PCV Valve on the old B230F engine. i have a chilton manual, but the diagram isnt helping. any experts know where this piece is?
question 2
i'm living in the car at the moment in the mountains of colorado, and at night it gets cold. i'll start the car and run the heater for 20 minutes or so to recharge the battery and heat the car. Recently about 10 minutes into the car running, i've noticed the smell of burning rubber. any ideas on what this could be?
question 3
is it kosher to use automatic transmission fluid in the power steering pump? the car used to be called "the delorian" by the previous owner b/c when you would turn the wheel, it would make a "time warp" sound. kinda funny, but bad for the pump.

Thanks for the help yall. have a great day!
justin

 

Below the intake manifold is whats called the "flame trap" - a peice of metal or plastic with holes. Its hard to get to, and its recommended you by the kit that includes all the hoses/holder.

Normal ATF is used for the PS pump.

I would also inspect the o-ring on the oil fill cap.

 

flame trap ~ PCV on this car. Check it every time you change the oil, and replace it when it is blocked up. Crud in the flame trap will translate into higher vapor pressure in the crankcase and valve cover and many a crankshaft and camshaft seal have started leaking due to neglect of this $1 part.

The previous poster is telling you that the thing is hard to get to (couldn't agree more). There is a flame trap relocation kit which relocates it to a somewhat more convenient (accessible) location. I bought from IpdUSA - not sure that it's good for your model or not, their website will tell you.

http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-200/Engi...9-258-260-847/

Burning rubber smell -- I'd start by looking at the accessory belts and make sure that they are fresh and snug. A dry or dirty belt will slip on the crankshaft pulley making for plenty of heat and sulfurous smell. But if your sniffer is off a bit, you may be smelling a blower motor that is about to go. Replacements aren't expensive (<$100) but from what I've heard it is the better part of a weekend to get it done! And there's nothing like laying upside down in the drivers seat with both hands in a maze of wires under the dash!

ATF in the power steering pump. Offhand it sounds like a bad idea to me. But someone else will know better. I just do what I'm told (mostly).

500K is not outside of the realm of possibility. There's a Volvo somewhere in the northeast with reported mileage well over 1M! Saw a 240 at the dealership years ago with 475K miles with a big note on the window - "Owner got tired of the color".

 

From the 85 owner's manual:
Power steering fluid
Capacity: 0.8 US qts = 0.75 liters.
Fluid type: ATF

 

Dexron III is fine for both ATF and power steering pump.

Burning rubber smell could be the blower motor on the way out.

10W-40 oil is fine but I wouldn't add anything to it.