Just installed 4 new injectors ( https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...289044&jsn=393 ) hoping to fix a bad fuel injector / acceleration issue.
It cranks but wont start, I turned the key a few times before trying to crank to get fuel back into the fuel rail. Tried to start it 3 times without luck. It was starting fine earlier today.
Im pretty sure I have all the injectors seated fine and nothing seemed out of place putting the bolts back in.

Is there something I mightve missed replacing the injectors? Thanks.

 

Note: no gas smell for flooded engine, dont think im getting injector pulse at all. Tach does not move when cranking. I feel like I accidentally unplug something taking out the injectors on the first go. Check connections / CPS?

 

Put the old ones back in and see if it runs
(it ran, you replaced something, now it does not run)

 

Yea I was planning on doing this just no time. I will do this tomorrow. If the old injectors work, whats the issue with the 4 new ones? No way all four or 2 or 3 of them are faulty.

Edit: The ones I ordered are EV1 injectors. Current ones have the nozzle that sticks out, different. I'll have to send these back and re order.

 

Injectors rarely go bad on these cars, why made you mess with them in the first place?

 

I put back the old injectors and car starts fine. Taking a second look no debris or damage to em. Going off topic, its had a performance issue past couple months. Lost some acceleration power, but can still get to 50/60 after some time. Just seems kind of sluggish. Noticeably harder to get to higher speed cold / cold weather. I think the gasket to water pump went bad so leaking a bit of coolant, but I think its also got a small oil leak near or just under timing belt. Or vacuum leak somewhere. Not really sure where to start on it.

 

Injectors very rarely go bad - so a good first step would be to check for codes - on the early OBD system - are any stored?

And/Or start with basics - compression, good spark plugs, correct/good spark plug wires, what does it look like in the distributor cap, engine speed sensor - how does it test, is all the insulation still on the wiring, Throttle plate/throttle switch, basic idle - all clean and set properly?

Any air leaks @ manifold gasket for example? Air filter (should be fine unless covered in mud) , - but I've seen the foam noise insulation from the top of the air filter box block air flow into the AMM. Intake hoses - anything from the air mass meter to the throttle plate can (and does ) leak - how about the short hose leaving the intercooler - they burn through on the bottom -

You could have an Air mass meter problem - but everything else should be checked first - especially if there's no code related to it. Air Mass Meters are the most misdiagnosed part - and the OEM parts were expensive - so avoid the bad diagnosis of that one.

 

Alright, Ill put this down and get to it. I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner but no change. I havent checked all codes but 2 and 6 showed 111s. Do have a B2 122 no speed signal, think speed sensor went out months ago, speedometer doesnt work. Thanks.

 

MAFS cleaning hardly ever works. You may or may not have a bad MAFS and yes, it's a tricky part with all kinds of symptoms causing drivability issues. Sadly, the only sure way to know is by swapping it with a "good known" sensor, a "new" one often doesn't work these days confusing things further, and no, there is no new $40 or so good MAFS!