My blower fan for the Heater works great on levels on all the levels except 1. When I turn the **** on level 1, the fan doesn't blow and it's like it is off. Would this be a problem with the **** or with the blower fan? Not sure what to replace.

 

Well, the **** is probably not the problem. I'd look at the switch.

 

Thanks! How can I get that **** off? I tried pulling but it won't come off and I am scared I am going to break something.

 

It's a friction fit, pulls straight off. If it's stuck tight enough to concern you, take an old dinner fork, spread two tines and lever it off.
Two points Lev!

 

I replaced the switch with a brand new one, but the 1 position is still off/no fan. Any suggestions?

 

Well, on a 240, if the switch isn't the issue, then it has to be the ballast resistor. Replacing it is nearly as pleasant as replacing the blower motor itself. I'd suggest holding off on the repair until the resistor and/or blower motor fails completely. It's a heck of a job to replace the blower or resistor. AllData calls for nearly 5 hours for a pro to do it. DIY'rs need to pencil in an entire weekend, a case of beer and 3 Prozac. I've done it twice; it does get better w/ experience. My brother-in-law was a master Volvo tech when 240's were new. He and a partner could dive in through both front doors and as a team, could change one in 30 minutes. They had a specific tool bag set up w/ every single tool needed inside. Once they dove in, they didn't stop until they were finished. You won't find that level of experience today. Also, the plastic housing as well as the plastic blower impellers today are a bit brittle from age; caution trumps speed today.

 

Wow, this really stinks. Living in Texas, the 1rst setting keeps a decent constant temp. in the winter. #2 gets to hot(no matter how hard I try to re-adjust the temp bar) and having it off get's cold in like 2 minutes. I called the shop and they priced around 800-900 with a new blower(they said since the labor is so intensive I might as well get a new blower also).

 

I've known folks to sell their 240 because of a heater motor. I'd recommend leaving it on #2 and crack the window(s). I suspect some folks here in Dallas think I'm a bit odd as I routinely drive to work with the window down and the heater on. I actually like it as my feet stay warm while the brisk air keeps me alert.

 

Most likely just your heater fan ready to call it quits. I always shut off all the top vents in the winter and just have it on my feet. I eventually shut off the fan after it warms up because the moving car draws enough air anyways.
Leave it on position 2, no harm in cracking a window in the winter, It's not against the law, but the cops might pull you over thinking you're airing out the joint.

 

well, that's another thing. even though i got the button pushed down so the heat goes to the floorboard, most of it still goes through the upper vents.

 

You have to manually close the dash vents to divert the rest of the air to the floor.

 

+1

Otherwise the air will take the path of least resistance, to your face!

 

I'm really tempted to dip into my savings to fix it. I trying to find ways to justify it, I have a freon leak from the inside. If I had that fix also...could I save money if it requires the same labor? meaning...they are in the same area to get to?

 

Replacing the blower motor gives access to everything the car has to go wrong.