cold start problems w/745Turbo
#1
cold start problems w/745Turbo
My trusty Turbo wagon is having difficulty starting when cold. If I keep it in the garage it helps, and if it won`t start I just warm up the garage and it will fire up. It will run kind of cobby and then settle in and it is good to go. If it does not start the plugs will be wet with gas. So I am assuming it is flooding.
Seems to me there is a cold start module on these but I can`t remember. My neighbor thinks it is the MAP sensor.
Anyone else have this problem? By cold out I mean under 20 degrees F
I am afraid that if I take it too the garage they are going to start replacing stuff I don`t need.
Thanks
Seems to me there is a cold start module on these but I can`t remember. My neighbor thinks it is the MAP sensor.
Anyone else have this problem? By cold out I mean under 20 degrees F
I am afraid that if I take it too the garage they are going to start replacing stuff I don`t need.
Thanks
#4
I think you have a LH 2.4 fuel injection system (mine is 2.2) so I don't know too much about it, other people here will know it better. I would suspect a bad temperature sensor for the Fuel Injection system (my car has two sensors, on for the FI system and the other for the temp gauge) or a bad Idle Air Control valve (IAC). But first, to identify whether you have 2.2 or 2.4 check out you Mass Airflow Sensor. My car has a circular piece (see arrow) next to the plug. If you have that, you have a LH 2.2 system. If it's flat there, then you have LH 2.4.
#7
I have some Volvo books here that were bought with my car, so they apply to my car, but they contain a lot of information for all versions of my car in different world markets. In 1989 Volvo started using LH 2.4 Jetronic on their naturally aspirated 740 not made for the California market. The next year, they made the 2.4 system on the turbo model as well. The advantages were a self adjusting CO compensation, a cold start injector and a diagnostic system. Look and see if you have the diagnostic box thingy on the driver's side shock tower (see pic). If you have one, someone who knows how to use one should be able to give you some advise or maybe you can find directions for using it. I have some info, but it applies to a different engine. I would suspect the coolant temp sensor the IAC and maybe the cold start injector (I think that's less likely) I've included the spec information for those parts, but they apply to the a year older configuration. What I would do is test the parts and if the readings don't match what it says they should be for the 2.4 system, then have a look at the part number and if that matches then you that part is probably faulty. Good luck.
Last edited by Titan Joe; 02-16-2010 at 06:58 PM.
#8
1990 will be LH 2.4. It has to be coolant temp sensor or similar I think.
You can also have issues with the plug for the coolant sensor looking like it's plugged in well, but the terminals inside push back when you put the plug onto the sensor, so check that. I pull the terminals out with needle nose pliers, then push the whole lot onto the sensor.They don't run a cold start injector, just widen pulse width for cold start.
I don't suspect IAC as long as the car idles fine when warm.
You should pull codes off your car. If you search Bosch LH 2.4 and trouble codes, it should come up with how to use the diagnostics and what teh codes mean.
Regards, Andrew.
You can also have issues with the plug for the coolant sensor looking like it's plugged in well, but the terminals inside push back when you put the plug onto the sensor, so check that. I pull the terminals out with needle nose pliers, then push the whole lot onto the sensor.They don't run a cold start injector, just widen pulse width for cold start.
I don't suspect IAC as long as the car idles fine when warm.
You should pull codes off your car. If you search Bosch LH 2.4 and trouble codes, it should come up with how to use the diagnostics and what teh codes mean.
Regards, Andrew.
#9
I will check the OHMs on the IAC when my neighbor can get too it. I have the manual.
While it does idle pretty good when warm, it does idle slower than normal. About 600rpm rather than 900. Then the warmer it gets the higher the idle.
I am going to diagnose the IAC first and then go from there.
Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it.
While it does idle pretty good when warm, it does idle slower than normal. About 600rpm rather than 900. Then the warmer it gets the higher the idle.
I am going to diagnose the IAC first and then go from there.
Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it.
#10
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#12
Andrew, I checked the ECU and there was no reading. So for $20 I ordered a new one from NAPA. Waited three days to get an when it came in it was wrong. The problem was, my prong terminals are round, and the new one had two flat terminals. Everything says it is a flat terminal. But mine is the round type. I called Volvo and they are pretty much clueless. I went back down to NAPA and they found one that looks like mine but it is for a 92 960. Will this be OK to get? Being the later LH2.4 injection system would they also have used it on the 960? I am really struggling to find the right part.
#13
If I am right, you are looking at one of these:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/194
This is the engine temp gauge sender.
You want one of these:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/194
This sender will be on the cylinder head, close to the other sender.
You have the right sender if it is the flat terminals, you just have to look harder for it on the engine!
Regards, Andrew.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/194
This is the engine temp gauge sender.
You want one of these:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/194
This sender will be on the cylinder head, close to the other sender.
You have the right sender if it is the flat terminals, you just have to look harder for it on the engine!
Regards, Andrew.
Last edited by Typhoon; 02-28-2010 at 05:49 AM.
#14
Andrew, Thanks for the pics. I have been fighting the coolant temp sensor.
The ECu is in an impossible place. If I need to pull the intake off to get at it the car is going down the road. The labor would cost more than the car, and all to replace a $20 sensor. I am a Volvo guy and swear by them but this time I will say Volvo dropped the ball big time. Did they hire an engineer from detroit?
Thanks for your help
Lee
The ECu is in an impossible place. If I need to pull the intake off to get at it the car is going down the road. The labor would cost more than the car, and all to replace a $20 sensor. I am a Volvo guy and swear by them but this time I will say Volvo dropped the ball big time. Did they hire an engineer from detroit?
Thanks for your help
Lee
#15
#16
You can't blame engineering as to the location of the sensor, in fact, it's in a very good place. Right in the middle of the head, protected from damage by the manifold.
I also don't think Volvo planned these vehicles to be still running at 250-350k kms.
It can be removed, you have to reach underneath, I believe I used a plain old ring spanner.
It's one of those things you are better off not trying to see as you remove it, get your hands under there and just feel it.
Trust me, it looks like it's in a much worse position than it is.
Regards, Andrew.
I also don't think Volvo planned these vehicles to be still running at 250-350k kms.
It can be removed, you have to reach underneath, I believe I used a plain old ring spanner.
It's one of those things you are better off not trying to see as you remove it, get your hands under there and just feel it.
Trust me, it looks like it's in a much worse position than it is.
Regards, Andrew.
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