Hi all, I have a shot at buying a "rebuilt " Volvo redblock for a great price, but I don't want a 2.0 for my 940 turbo. How can you tell externally exactly what you're looking at? I searched for Volvo engine casting numbers and date castings with no luck. Hopefully it's at least a block with the bigger rods. Thanks for your help!

Cheers, mike

 

If you don't trust the VIN, or have the VIN from the donor vehicle, the code for the motor is stamped on the firewall side of the motor (on the block). You'll need a good light, and an inspection mirror if it's still in a vehicle.

Probably some solid degreaser as well if it's out of any sort of REAL Volvo. lol...

 

Thx for the reply. The motor is out and "fresh from the machine shop"... What are the magic numbers and or letters for a 2.3 engine.. Both NA and turbo? I really can't afford to get burnt on this deal.

Thx!

M.

 

I couldn't tell you that off the top of my head. I'd probably ask for a photo of whatever number is there, and then try and decipher it.

 

Well, went and looked and bought it tonite. It has B230 cast right on the pass side of the block, and B230F on the drivers side, along with the following numbers;

49985933861

Also on the drivers side.. 85 03 27, Which I'll assume as March 27, 1985 DEF an NA motor, as the return for the turbo boss is there, but undrilled..

The guy said he put the big rods in it and cant remember if he put in forged pistons, but he thinks he did... He said it was redone with the idea of adding a turbo.. Lets hope the pistons are really forged ones. He said they were Mahle, and were 600 bucks... The price sounds right for forged units...

The head is the standard fare 530, and the NA exh. mani is installed. Otherwise it looks very clean.. HOWEVER, the dizzy is in the side of the block, and I need to reuse my end mount dist. on the head. The head is drilled and tapped for my equipment. Guess I have to swap over the cam to get the drive end to match up?

The plan is to pull the oil pan and look at the rods... Is there a way to tell the big rods from the small rods? Is there a casting symbol or number to look for? Also, is the piston part number stamped under the crown, visible from below without the pan on? This would "ID" the pistons for sure..

I'll post pix... If it is something I can't use in my nine turbo, I'll pass it along to someone who needs a nice NA motor for their ride, for what I paid for it.

Cheers,
Mike

 

afaik, the cams are all interchangable as far as the keying for the cam-end distributor, you just need to pull the cap off the back of the head if it was setup for a 240 to add the distributor there, and put a cap over the block-side distributor hole.

turbos used different valves, they are sodium filled for better heat distribution, and have a dimple on the exhaust valve to indicate this. of course, you can only see this if the head is off the engine.

turbo valves:


turbos also have a different cam.

 

Hi Pierce,

Thx for the reply. I suppose I ought to pull off the head as well as the pan... I do have a spare 530T head sitting in the garage... maybe hand lap and swap in those ex valves, perhaps? And swap over my T cam too. Now to figure out the rod situation... I'll post pix later and hopefully someone will be able to fill me in on the pistons too.

Did reading last night and seen others running the wimpy rods.. I'm looking at a DD here.. with only a 15G, browntops and a 2.5 exh. system. Maybe 14 lbs boost tops.. I really don't beat my cars.

If it has crappy rods, I'd suppose bigger rods are a direct swap? Also, I work at a machine shop, so I could mill off the tops of the NA pistons to drop the compression... [seen a vid on youtube modifying volvo pistons..] but the Q is how much to remove to drop the CR to what... 8 to 1?

Thx again for your reply!

Cheers,
M.

 

the guys on turbobricks are MUCH more into modifying these engines and turbo mods specifically.

 

What year is your 940? Why are you swapping in an 85 motor of unknown composition? 85 was the first year of the "low friction design. 9mm rods ratherthan the old M rods that were 13mm. They moved the thrust bearing location further weakening the motor. The motor in your 94, on the other hand, was probably an L block rather than a K block. In mid 90, Volvo went back to the 13 mm rods and included piston oilers for cooling on the turbo motors. The L block that came stock in your 940 is arguably the second strongest turbo motor Volvo built. You're attempting to swap it with the weakest...and an n/a motor to boot. The sodium filled, stellite coated exhaust valves in the head of a turbo motor are the least of it. It's a higher compression motor meaning you will only be able to run low boost levels. Unless your original motor has a hole through the side of it, why not rebuild it?

 

Hi, my 940 is a 92 sedan. My intent was to buy/find a motor in better shape than mine and drop it in and go. However I seemed to have lost out yet again. I pulled it apart to find a block with amazing bores and no ridge, but weak rods. The block is also able to take the crank sensor as well. Can I swap in bigger rods and add an oil return to the pan and end up with a decent shortblock? I work at a machine shop, so I can easily mill the pistons to reduce compression .. The head on the motor was a 530 and completely redone..I have a turbo spare head in the garage I can swipe the exhaust valves from.. And the turbo cam can come from my 92 motor. I thought I could pull this Frankenstein together relatively cheap.. I got the motor for a real deal.. But if it is too much of a big deal, it would make a great NA motor for someone.. I'd sell it to a fellow forum member here for what I paid for it.. Thoughts?

Thx,
Mike

 

as Swift says, the later B230F(T)'s had beefier thrust bearings, and the final 94/95 K blocks had piston oil squirters, which is the best setup for a 'tuner'.