Hi all,
This is my first visit to the Volvo forum. My sons '96 960 wagon (B6304S) motor stopped running at 65mph/2700rpm today. Looked under the hood and lo and behold an idler pulley let go and came forward through the center of the plastic timing belt cover about 2". The bearings were all scattered and the center was wallowed out. Removed the top half of the plastic cover to see that actually the belt itself did not break, but when the idler pulley departed the belt slackened and of course everything got out of time.
So, lay it on me guys--this our first Volvo. The 2.9L 6 cylinder is an interference fit engine, correct? Does anyone have a similar experience to tell me what the likely repairs needed will be. We are pretty decent home mechanics and can handle a head replacement/timing belt if need be. If so,
any recommendations on sourcing a rebuilt head.
Thanks!
Mufflerbearing in Holly Springs NC

 

I'm glad you are not put off by the work. I've read quite a few of these stories and the result is bent valves. It is just head stuff and the bottom end is probably ok. If some valve guides or seats got ruined then a regular auto machine shop can help you with this.

To start off you probably need the shop manual, you can buy it on a dvd, it may be possible for me or someone else to make pdf of the chapter you need.

To button it up you will need a set of timing alignment tools, I saw these on ebay in the $120 range.

In our junkyard I have seen a couple of 960s and the heads always get taken.

We live in the same area so I will send you a PM with info about buying parts, I've recently bought some of the same things you'll need.

 

Thanks VDonkey,
Appreciate the response. Would you or anyone else know of a source for rebuilt heads, or should I just plan on removing mine and take it to a local machine shop?
I guess we should plan on doing all the other stuff one does during a TB change: Water pump, idler pulleys, tensioner, etc...
Uggghh.

 

Take the head off, see the damage, go from there. Cheapest way, get a used jyard head, a machine shop way with valves etc. is costly. Depends on how much you like the car because it is not worth much...

 

I agree with lev, it seems like these cars are totaled for small damage like bumper and fender. You might get acceptable results by simply throwing the used head on with a new gasket. On the other hand buying valves won't be cheap even if you have a dealer discount. Depends how many are bent... you should pull the head and look.

If you've never used a machine shop before, the cheapest way out is to bring them the head casting with valves held in with masking tape. Just let them take care of the valve sealing surfaces and make the bottom flat. After they do that you'll bring it home and reassemble it on the kitchen table.

 

I have pulled a few heads on the I5 white block motors but not the I6. Not much difference other than the extra 2 cylinder and the intake setup. They have some short rubber tubes that most experienced mechanics try not to disturb, they are kind of a pain to get sealed right going back on.

I think most people try to get rebuilt heads from Clear Water in Florida. If it were me, I would purchase the head gasket kit, pull a junk yard head (check it for bent and burnt valves), and have a local shop check the head for trueness. Maybe have them replace the valve stem seals. Our yard usually has a few 960's.

Head Removal and Installation, Volvo 850 / S70 Turbo B5234T, B5254T, Head gasket replacement, valve replacement.

 

Thanks rspi.
I've watched some of your videos already, and they are very helpful. Big THANKS to you. Wish there was one in this forum specific to the I6 2.9L motor. Started today to take everything apart to get the head out. I'll report back in a few days once the head is out.
Has anyone else out there had a an idler pulley fail which led to the TB getting loose like me? Just curious.

 

I had one locked up but I got to it before it failed. The car had 86,000 on it and just weeks prior I was really getting on it.

I was squealing on cold starts, first start of the day. Would make noise for about 2 or 3 minutes, then quite down. I contacted a guy in Orlando about it and he told me what it was. Got the parts in a couple of days later and sure enough, the idler was locked up. It took 2 hands to get it to turn.

It happens all the time. More often than the belt breaking. Actually if people checked, I bet it would be locked up on cars that have a broken belt.

 

Thanks for that rspi,
I don't believe ours was making any noises prior to failure. I was the one who started and drove it the day it failed, and heard nothing unusual until the engine stopped. Ive got just about everything removed now, except im stuck trying to get the intake manifold off. Ive removed the top 4 bolts, loosened the bottom 4, which should allow it to come off vertically upward. Anyone know if there is anything else holding it down underneath--hard to see under that big thing.
Thanks!

 

Found out by looking at a manual that there is a large nut/bolt at the bottom of the intake manifold that must be removed. Anyone know what size nut that is, and how best to reach it?

 

No I don't.