PCV-How Long Can I GO
#1
PCV-How Long Can I GO
My car is showing signs of what i think is the PCV system going up. I noticed some very small amount of oil spilage at the dipstick and when i remove the dipstick it smokes a little bit. The car runs great and i was reading about the PCV and noticed mine was smoking. Wondering how serious it is and can i still drive the car and what should i do to fix it. THANX FOR ANY INFO.
Other than this the car runs great best car i ever had!!!!
1995 850 t5r
1991 E30 ///M3
1995 Jaguar xj6- wifes
1991 F-150 Jacked up and eats gas
Other than this the car runs great best car i ever had!!!!
1995 850 t5r
1991 E30 ///M3
1995 Jaguar xj6- wifes
1991 F-150 Jacked up and eats gas
Last edited by Mike Hasson; 10-27-2009 at 09:41 PM.
#2
Some people go a long time without having problems, while others start blowing seals from the pressure really quick. It's a gamble to keep driving- do the PCV as soon as possible. I just bought an 850 that, among other things, has a plugged PCV system. The previous owner let it get to where it leaks oil from every seal except (thank God) the rear main. I'm not driving that car at all until I do the PCV.
#5
Save yourself the headaches and just do it. If the RMS goes, not only are you talking 400 dollars to for the PCV done, but another 1000 to have the RMS replaced.
#6
Ironically we had a member on here and on another board that asked the same question. His car was in good condition and I think 6 months later developed a small leak! Come to find out, with the added pressure he blew the rear main seal! The price for the PCV job was $429 I think to do it. But because he gambled on not doing it the price then added $1,300.00 to the PVC job! So my point to people is, which price would you rather have???? Plus being with out a car for a few days!
#7
I purchased my 850 with a little smoke coming from the dip stick. It had no leaks. I think I put about 10k on it, including a trip to the track with no problem.
I ordered the parts and when I went to do the job, I found out that my daughter's S70 GLT blew the dip stick out. So, I used the kit I purchased to fix her car and ordered another kit for mine. I replaced mine so I did the same job twice within 3 weeks.
It took me about 6 to 8 hours to do it. I'm a slow worker so you may be able to do it faster. Good instructions on this site. Go for it, kit cost about $115. The dealer would charge around $800.
I ordered the parts and when I went to do the job, I found out that my daughter's S70 GLT blew the dip stick out. So, I used the kit I purchased to fix her car and ordered another kit for mine. I replaced mine so I did the same job twice within 3 weeks.
It took me about 6 to 8 hours to do it. I'm a slow worker so you may be able to do it faster. Good instructions on this site. Go for it, kit cost about $115. The dealer would charge around $800.
#8
Thanks for all the info. I am going to fix it that's for sure. I just didn't know how fast i had to get to it. If it wasn't for this site i wouldn't of even know it was a issue to fix. I have had my car for going on four years and hardly had to replace anything-I have replaced all the suspension and exhaust-done tune ups and stuff like that. Those are all things i have done before it was needed-This is the only thing so far i have had to do.
Any How Thanx Again Everybody i will be fixing the PCV next week.
Any How Thanx Again Everybody i will be fixing the PCV next week.
#9
Yeah Mike, I don't know. I just did mine at 140K, Bought the car with 84K. I've only used MOBIL 1 10-30 green top (not the high mileage stuff or extreme). I was disapointed at how unclogged the oil separator was when I got it off. Make no mistake- this is a pretty huge job to do. Doable, but huge. I would first check/remove/clean all the hoses that you can get too with taking the intake off. The PTC that is near the turbo in the back is commonly cited as the cause of increased manifold pressure. Clean it first.
On my car, someone had installed some new vacuum lines and run them in front of the manifold instead of underneath it- pretty smart. Check all your elbows, and check for patency of all the lines that you can before you start this project.
If your gas mileage is as expected, and your not throwing codes, and your happy with the way she runs, I might hesitate before digging into it. If you do it, go ahead and get a new gasket for the throttle body, you'll want to remove it too and clean that manifold out real well. If you have a donor car or a junk yard nearby you may want to get another intake manifold to go ahead and get cleaned up, you could reinstall everything a lot faster that way too.
Best of luck,
On my car, someone had installed some new vacuum lines and run them in front of the manifold instead of underneath it- pretty smart. Check all your elbows, and check for patency of all the lines that you can before you start this project.
If your gas mileage is as expected, and your not throwing codes, and your happy with the way she runs, I might hesitate before digging into it. If you do it, go ahead and get a new gasket for the throttle body, you'll want to remove it too and clean that manifold out real well. If you have a donor car or a junk yard nearby you may want to get another intake manifold to go ahead and get cleaned up, you could reinstall everything a lot faster that way too.
Best of luck,
#10
I did the PCV on the wagon I had for a while. Not too terribly hard.
If I end up keeping my car, it will be on the "soon" list that way I don't have to work on it during winter.
If all goes well, I won't be working on any cars this winter, except a few odds and ends things on the Celica in my friends garage where we are storing it.
If I end up keeping my car, it will be on the "soon" list that way I don't have to work on it during winter.
If all goes well, I won't be working on any cars this winter, except a few odds and ends things on the Celica in my friends garage where we are storing it.
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