I have a feeling it's 36 and the replacement may be a 32 based on what I've been reading. I'm buying a new axle assembly from fctgroton and I bet the new nut is a 32 while the one on there now is a 36. I know that an 1.25" is too small by a good bit and a 1.5" is a little too big, and 1.25" converts to 31.74 mm and 1.5" converts too 38.09 MM.

 

I found that the S-70 used the same half axle, just a different nut.... thought that was interesting.

 

If someone replaced the axle it can be a 30 or 32MM as well.

 

The new nut "if you're getting the DSS axles" which after putting them in our 01 V70 I insisted on for my 850 T5 and actually called FCP to make damn sure,the nut is exactly the same as the factory nut. which to me is remarkable because with the others there is plenty of BAD press on the nuts. In fact the nut supplied with the cardone axles I put on my 96 NA the standard axle nut socket could not reach to torque so I tossed them and put the Volvo nuts back on. the DSS axle come with nuts as big as the OEM I took the CV joint apart,not by choice, and man they are really beefy. let's see how they last though???

 

I am getting ready to replace my front axles on my '96 Turbo wagon. Been looking around and trying to decide whose axles I should buy.

Looking for suggestions. Also, who sells these DSS axles, and Bobec do you like them?

FCP Groton sells EMPI axles and some after market ones for $30 bucks less. Would you suggest OEM or?

Thanks

 

EMPI is a good axle.

 

Hey, why there is no info on replacing the rear axle? Maybe may be a litle diferent, but Here I am talking about a 02 XC70 which is simular to the 850 Wagon. Any thoughts?

 

I have two of the new Cardone shafts that I put in a year ago. No problems with fit, no problem torquing them to spec. And do torque whatever shafts you get as it's important to how well they work and how long they last.

 

Bump, no info on rear axle removal?

 

I've done rears just not on a Volvo XC70. From VW to Ford to ... they are all pretty much the same front or rear. If you're looking for a specific step by step you might want to post it under XC70 as this is page three of this thread and isn't likely to be read by many people.
Or, take a look over in Matthews Volvo Site to see if they have a write up.

 

I learned the hard way too. You dont have to take the "pinch bolt" out to unfasten the lower ball joint. If your car is over a year old and if live in an area with winter salt you are NEVER going to get it out without wasting two hours. All you have to do is remove the three in row thirteen milimeter nuts are the ball joint will come right off.

Audis and Volkswagons are notorious for their upper control arm "pinch bolts" that bind two ball joints together. They are impossible to remove and many mecahnics refuse to touch them.

 

Digging up a somewhat old thread here, but im doing axles right now on my 94 855, and the drivers side axle is being a BASTIGE to get out of the transmission. there's really no good place to pry on it with a screwdriver, and ive tried a hammer (claw end), cats paw, and 3' pry bar that i STOOD on and couldnt get the thing to budge. I tried doing the trick where you do a quick and hard tug on the driveshaft too. that wound up with the inner boot ripping in half and leaving me with the axle sans inner joint in my hand. Any suggestions, folks?

 

They can be a bear at times!
I end up hammering prybars between the axle and transmission till it comes loose.
Some times it takes me 2 hours on a lift to get loose.

 

I just did a pair on a '97 Nissan Maxima and it was a real pain. I had a little practice removing them from salvage yard cars and it still took me 5-1/2 hours on the car. Busted knuckles, torn thumb and all. That job sucks.

 

I've always been able to get them to pop out with a pair of large screwdrivers or prybars depending on what would fit. Put them as close to 180 degrees apart as you can and the axle should pop out. If it's really stuck there is a rental tool you can get at most auto parts stores along with the slide hammer it fits on.

I've done a lot of the pinch bolt style ball joints and I've never struggled that much with them. You take off the nut, use an impact if you have it to spin the bolt to break it free or do it by hand and then use a long punch to push the bolt out fairly easily and then use a pry bar or two to spread the opening a bit to break the rust loose from the ball joints stud. I douse it all with PB blaster but it usually comes apart without too much fuss. I'm in Minnesota so I know about rust and corrosion.

 

I could not get one of the ball joints out or all the way back in. I sprayed PB Blaster on it and everything. Did get it in far enough to stick a part of a cotter pin in it and that's where it will be. My C clamps are in the mail so I couldn't try that. Didn't want to tear the joint up getting it out.

 

Kiss: ive looked for one of those things you posted. none of the auto parts stores around here have them for rent. bummer for me...

And yes, I'm still fighting with it.

 

Make sure the long axle is free to move out. Pry with it in place so it comes straight out. You should be able to get a pry bar on the long axle side and a big flat blade screw driver or smaller pry bar on the short side. Give both a nice smooth jerk. They should go. The only time I have had trouble is when the long axle was not lined up and to small of a screw driver on the short axle.

 

boxpin: I have the passenger side all put back together already. The passenger side axle (the long one) was a snap. It's the driver's side thats giving me problems. If i had that out, this would have been a 1 day project at best.

 

I had trouble getting one out when there was a hidden screw still in the bracket. Is it already loose from the wheel hub? Just not out of the tranny?