Steering Rack Revisted
#1
Steering Rack Revisted
Apparently the steering rack that I pulled about 6 months ago is leaking and the inner and outer tie rods are all tore to hell. Does anyone have ANY suggestions for a reputable reman supplier for a rack?
I am thinking that I might be able to rebuild the current one, but this is the wifes car, and I don't want to risk that. I think we have been living on borrowed time as it is.
I want to ground the Volvo so I can take a more intense look at this as I feel that I rushed it too fast last time. We have a backup car for her, although its a gas guzzler, its "much more gooder" than the Volvo right now.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
I am thinking that I might be able to rebuild the current one, but this is the wifes car, and I don't want to risk that. I think we have been living on borrowed time as it is.
I want to ground the Volvo so I can take a more intense look at this as I feel that I rushed it too fast last time. We have a backup car for her, although its a gas guzzler, its "much more gooder" than the Volvo right now.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
#3
#4
I just replaced my rack in my volvo. Went with Santech. Complete kit from outer tie rod to outer tie rod. Comes with an inline filter. OEM doesn't, opted out of the filter. Might add later. At 180,000 mikes my fluid looked clean.
Must say that the time for the job that is posted in the software repair shops use quoted the job at 3 hours. Must say over the two days I spend more like 7-8 hours. Mostly becuase of two things:
1. it is a real @#$%& to get it out and back in.
2. it is real hard to reach the bolt to remove the steering coupler and then to gt it back on.
Bay 13 was correct in his write up. You don't need anything to support the rear subframe once you remove those bolts. What you need to do is raise the transmission with a floor jack. This give you the clearance to get the rack in and out.
BTW, be sure to buy those 4 subframe bolts. They are $39 from the dealer.
Also, Kiss4aFrog was correct on how to bleed the system once you get it back together. Big thing is patience and it takes a while to get all the tiny air bubbles out.
I bought mine from my mechanic friend who owns a VW repair shop. After his 20% mark up (that is ok, as we all have to make a living) I paid $260.
Good luck with your decision.
Must say that the time for the job that is posted in the software repair shops use quoted the job at 3 hours. Must say over the two days I spend more like 7-8 hours. Mostly becuase of two things:
1. it is a real @#$%& to get it out and back in.
2. it is real hard to reach the bolt to remove the steering coupler and then to gt it back on.
Bay 13 was correct in his write up. You don't need anything to support the rear subframe once you remove those bolts. What you need to do is raise the transmission with a floor jack. This give you the clearance to get the rack in and out.
BTW, be sure to buy those 4 subframe bolts. They are $39 from the dealer.
Also, Kiss4aFrog was correct on how to bleed the system once you get it back together. Big thing is patience and it takes a while to get all the tiny air bubbles out.
I bought mine from my mechanic friend who owns a VW repair shop. After his 20% mark up (that is ok, as we all have to make a living) I paid $260.
Good luck with your decision.
#5
#6
#7
x-angel,
You are right, it is a scan tech unit. Caught a nasty cold in the midst of it all. So that is why I spelled it wrong.
Here is a URL of what is included.
1994 Volvo 850 Rack & Pinion Complete 85.0275N
You are right, it is a scan tech unit. Caught a nasty cold in the midst of it all. So that is why I spelled it wrong.
Here is a URL of what is included.
1994 Volvo 850 Rack & Pinion Complete 85.0275N
#8
Since you're in the U.S. you have many options, dealer, FCP all the different parts stores, NAPA, Autozone ... at around 270 for the rack itself.
#9
I was figuring that. I finally got a little cash in. So I can at least get the rack with the inner tie-rods. I have another set of Outer Tie-Rods. I believe that the main problem has been that there seems to be a different set of OUTER tie rods on an 850 Turbo from an 850 GLT. So I guess I will get the rack with the inner tie rods: Has anyone heard anything bad about this rack?
#10
#11
Volvo 850 t5 1997 parts
Dear Sirs
I had a accident with my VOLVO in the right-side and im looking for Parts:
- GearBox System
- Steering Wheel Air Bag
- Sway Bar(Front Wheel)
Im currently living in Mozambique & the closest place that i can search is South Africa or i can ship ...
PLEASE HELP with links,address & etc ...
Thank u
Dj
I had a accident with my VOLVO in the right-side and im looking for Parts:
- GearBox System
- Steering Wheel Air Bag
- Sway Bar(Front Wheel)
Im currently living in Mozambique & the closest place that i can search is South Africa or i can ship ...
PLEASE HELP with links,address & etc ...
Thank u
Dj
#12
After a long battle with a screwed up garage door - I will FINALLY be able to get into the garage and get this rack replaced. I understand I don't need to rush, and take my time, esp when it comes to removing the rack from the steering column.
If I remember correctly - you need to LOCK the steering wheel.. correct? Or am I wrong - I can't remember what I did last time.
If I remember correctly - you need to LOCK the steering wheel.. correct? Or am I wrong - I can't remember what I did last time.
#13
#14
#17
Well, I did go with Scantech do we will see. Personally I liked the quality that was visual on the outside, the tie rod ends, etc. The bleeding the system took sometime, but after that was done, I have to say the feel in the steering is like a brand new car. It also is very responsive to quick lane changes.
So I hope not to do this again.
Matt01, what is your opinion of the the time to failure if indeed it does fail?
So I hope not to do this again.
Matt01, what is your opinion of the the time to failure if indeed it does fail?
#18
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