From all I have read, the real preformance people pay almost NO attention to the stock, in-dash turbo guage. They all get a real boost guage that acutally shows the amount of pressure on the system. Besides that, there is a vacuum line that runs to that guage that is prone to leaks. My vacuum line to it ran under my batter tray which had worn through the line in 2 or 3 places.

It is also not uncommon for the turbo to lag for a second. I could be wrong but back in the day there was a term called TURBO LAG which meant there would be a second or two before you feel the turbo kick in (it took a second or so to build it's pressure).

I'm from that time where smoke out of the tail pipe was a sign of piston wear. I have seen people wear a motor out in 50,000 miles (about 80,000 KM). Actually it can be done a lot faster than that with a new engine or skipped oil changes. Better yet, run a car out of oil and it can be done in a week.

BTW, do me a favor. Don't tell us that you are running that car to the red line on the tach when you know you have a problem, you're killing me. LOL

 

Sorry abt that...just did it twice to see what the gauge told me. Will never do it again...and when the car needs a rebuilt then the next 1500 km i wouldnt dare to go anywhere near

 

take off your turbo metal hose from the top of your turbo if you find oil there (on the edge of the plastic where it holds the metal hose ) then it's yout turbo, I had a similar problem where I had 1997 850 t5 wagon, took out the turbo, rebuilt and istalled back and "voila"

 

But not always all turbo's pass a little bit of oil even new ones.

 

I did notice something today that might tell you some more (and eventually me) about the problem.

When i drive carefully rev till 3000-3250 rpm max and chane gears there i can see no oil smoke at all when changing gears. But when i rev if up and press the pedal down more or all it really smokes blue....as much smoke as an 2.5 TDI would create. After that when i have to park or wait for a traffic light, then it really really smokes. When i do a calm driving the smoke is much less with parking etc.

What i also notice is when the car is cold it is hestitating pretty much, this is completely gone when warm. This problem is with petrol as lpg as wel.

 

Maybe it is the turbo.

 

I have a new update and now i'm for 99% sure that the oil control rings are the cause.

I didnt drive the car for abt 1,5 day and i noticed the clutch judder/shaking was completely gone. After that i cruised very quietly for abt 20 km or so. The blue smoke was very little and the judder hadn't gone back either.

But after that in the evening a friend came by with his new V50 D5 (which is also lovely to drive i must admit) but he liked a drive in my car as well cause he's also Volvo 'freak' .

We drove pretty normal not extreme but did go to the german highway (just 2 minutes from here) to let him see how quick and easy it does 240 km/h an tacho. Just before or on 240 i felt de turbo lagging and after that i decided to let of the throttle and drive home with a bit more carefull.

When i was driving home i heard the belt making a little bit noise and i checked under the hood. There were some oil drips on the hood and i think on the belt. The car is making crankcase pressure under load thats obvious. On idle it doesn't just under load.

This ofcourse makes the oil control rings very very suspicious.

Now i'm doubting what to do, i can get a cylinder block for just around 300 pounds or they can rebuild my own cylinder block. When i would rebuild my block then i have a rebuilt turbo, rebuilt head and rebuilt block...then im sure that the engine would last another 300.000 km's

Only thing is when the pistons are bad it wil cost another 750 pounds extra. I think this isnt the case though cause the compression is too good fo that but you'll never know.

 

Update:

Now i'm 100% sure its the oil control rings...the cylinders are almost all like a mirror and oil is burned because of that.

I found someone that could take pics of the cylinders when the engine still was in the car:







Now i'm doubting what to do...rebuilding the cylinder block or change the engine for a second hand one...its pretty difficult cause the original volvo parts are damn expensive.

A friend of mine can rebuld it but then i have to wait till december...then he has finished building his house...pretty damn difficult choice...

 

buy a motor that needs a rebuild already, then rebuild it with new pistons (oversized if you wish for a lil more fun) maybe toss some cams in it or something for more fun. and then swap the motors one weekend.

after that you can sell the one that is in the car now to make some cash back.

 

Used motor.

 

I installed a new engine and what you think...still the same smoking problem! The guy that installed the engine saw that there was way to much shaft play on the turbo and he thinks thats causing all. My old garage told me there was little to no shaft plays so i dont i ever go there anymore. My money is all wasted now and still there's smoke.

Can a worn turbo cause crankcase pressure btw?

It seems (i heard this after all ) that the previous owner installed a rebuilt turbo, but it didnt get oil the first seconds, so i think its pretty damaged.

Can it also be some excisting oil in the system what is still causing the smoke?

 

Yes the turbo can be bad due to lack of oil on start up.

It could also be left over oil as well.

 

I know this post was a little old, but when I take off the metal hose pipe that comes from the turbo I have a little bit of oil sitting on the edge inside there, however, I recently took off my turbo and checked it and it had practically zero shaft play. Just saying.

 

Still have some questions:

1) How long can it take before the oil is out of the exhaust?
2) Can a worn turbo cause crankcase pressure? For example through the oil return line?
3) What is best a rebuild turbo or a new one? And where to get them best and for te best price

Thanks again

 

Usually within a few miles the old oil will burn out. You can buy a reman turbo from Volvo. I do rebuild them, but I dont know where your located. The parts can be bought on gpop.com. I have a 15T, 15G, 13T ready for rebuild. send me an Email and Ill help you out the best I can. paul_mccracken@yahoo.com.

 

Here's an update:

I was able to find a used 15G turbo but this one had already some shaft play on it. But because it had less shaft play then my old one i did replace it anyway.

After i discovered it was the early 15G, i changed the exhaust housing with the one from the old turbo so i was still able to fit the new used turbo.

After mounting it there was no blue smoke @ all. After driving 500 miles or so i suddenly saw some smoke now and then. And now i'm 500 miles further and it smoke more often but not continously.

In the beginning after replacing the turbo theres was happily coming no oil out of the dipstick anymore. But now after 1000 miles the car has blown oil through the dipstick hole again, oil is against the hood and over the inlet.

There's enough vaccuum at idle, cause when i pull the oil cap its sucked (a little bit) on its place, this is good i heard. There is some white smoke coming from the dipstick but i assume this is normal when the car is hot?

Can the oil trap be the blue smoke problem and oil blow problem? Or is it my 'new' turbo again?

What else can cause the oil be blown through the dipstick hole (under throttle)?

I know i filled the oil between half and max, but i assume this cannot cause the car blow the oil out of the dipstick adn exhaust??

Thanks again.

 

Usually oil/smoke coming out of the dipstick tube is a clogged PCV system. Smoke coming from the dipstick isn't normal, it's a symptom. The three main causes of that is a clogged PCV system, dirty PTC system, or failing rings.

 

I would look into replacing your PCV. The crank pressure is backing up and blowing out your turbo seals. It is only a matter of time before the newer 15G goes bad.

 

Hope it is the pvc system then.

It only happens under pressure...during normal driving there's no oil coming through the dipstick.

At idle it has vacuum while the oil cap is sucked (as written above). Hopefully i have luck now endly with replacing the pcv.

 

So this 15G turbo is on its end too. Replaced the pcv system, after that replaced the air intake tube (from the mass air sensor to the turbo inlet) and i didnt had any more oil from the dipstick.

Since a few weeks i was noticing that the turbo was making more and more noise and yes....there was oil from the dipstick again...grrrr

Last weekend there was a little pool of oil beneath the car and the car has thrown out a LOT oil through the dipstick.

The 'new' engine itself has only 130.000 km (approxx 80.000 miles) and seems pretty good actually. At idle it sucks the oil cap on place and does not blow it away from the hole.

@ the dynojet it still was capable of reaching 232,5 WHP and 381 WNM, thats aprrox 270 HP and 435 NM.

I cannot imagine anything else then that my turbo is pressurizing my crankcase through the seals. I cannot find anywhere on the internet though if it's possible that a turbo pressurizes the crankcase. Can you someone tell me if this is possible at all?

Because my turbo's are wearing very fast there has to be a reason for it. 1) the pcv, but i replaced it (but too late i think)
2) the air inlet tube wich was blocked, after replacing that there was no crankcase pressure @ all anymore
3) the oil return line, but i checked this before mounting and was totally clean.
4) Can the oil inlet possibly cause all this?

I rebuild the old turbo myself and i'm going to get it balanced just for sure within 2 weeks, but before mounting the turbo i hope someone can answer my questions or someone has a possible sollution for my problem.

This problem i already have since i own the car and had it even with the old engine with 300.000km on the odo mounted. Ofcourse i invested loads of money now and still have the same problem. Hope someone can help my out! My moneytree is empty at the moment.

Thanks again folks.