MY C70 UPGRADES
#201
yeah, the turbos of those times were rude and crude! they have come such a long way since then. they actually have a CAST stainless steel turbine housing now that makes the turbo so light, that cracking exhaust manifolds are a thing of the past.
the turbo is considered 1/3 of an actual muffler, so really you don't have to run a muffler at all, but the sound can be improved with a preforated, straight through exhaust like the one i'm putting together. a flowmaster or anything like that would surely hurt performance. turbos hate baffles and chambers.
here are my star players
this thing is gonna sound good!
the turbo is considered 1/3 of an actual muffler, so really you don't have to run a muffler at all, but the sound can be improved with a preforated, straight through exhaust like the one i'm putting together. a flowmaster or anything like that would surely hurt performance. turbos hate baffles and chambers.
here are my star players
this thing is gonna sound good!
Last edited by PANTYEATR; 02-24-2009 at 06:19 PM.
#203
#204
Why not bend stainless pipes?? I recall you mentioned aluminized?? I had a stainless system made for the hartge. I used Porche tips (dual tips) for the ends of the two mufflers and cut the rear valence for a custom fit. The rear mufflers are oblong (ie: not round) and have no baffles..............the core is perforated and the body of the mufflers are packed with long strand glass. A great idle sound and awsome when under full tat. Realize Eater that I can hit 10000 RPM although at 150 MPH I am at a tad over 7000. I'm waiting to see your finished product and can well imagine that it will be professional!
r.
r.
#205
well i will have to see the difference in cost between the aluminized and the stainless. i want the stainless, but if the aluminized is a good value i'll go with that just to compete with the cost of the OBX system.
my goal is to make an exhaust system that will beat the OBX in price and performance. (i already blew the price part out of the water)
build it exactly the way i want and be good for a good stretch of power levels.
i will have my friend TIG weld the whole system, it will be very nice Reg.
my goal is to make an exhaust system that will beat the OBX in price and performance. (i already blew the price part out of the water)
build it exactly the way i want and be good for a good stretch of power levels.
i will have my friend TIG weld the whole system, it will be very nice Reg.
#207
Eater, go to a metal shop/machine shop and purchase your stainless. That is what I did and then had it bent at a quality muffler shop. I had a friend weld up the 'pieces' and then I sent the whole 'thing' to Jet Hot in Mississippi. By buying the pipe yourself, you will find the cost is quite competitive with what a muffler shop will charge for aluminum. By the way..........the reason I Jet Hot coated the parts was to get a better flow through the pipe. My header is stainless and I had it Jet Hot coated and the under hood temp dropped quite a bit. Something for you to consider.
r.
r.
#208
yeah, thats the guy. he wants to TIG the whole thing, but it will be a 2 piece exhaust just so we can remove it for whatever reason.
that sounds like a good idea Reg, but we don't have too many mandrel bender guys here in orlando. they barely carry bent pipes with no reduction or crimps in the bends. i'm so ready to do this, i can't wait! i wanna hear what this thing will sound like once i free up these HPs
that sounds like a good idea Reg, but we don't have too many mandrel bender guys here in orlando. they barely carry bent pipes with no reduction or crimps in the bends. i'm so ready to do this, i can't wait! i wanna hear what this thing will sound like once i free up these HPs
#209
#210
#211
Ladys and Gentleman my newest upgrade which I LOVE!!!!!
http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/h...t=IMG_0090.jpg
http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/h...t=IMG_0089.jpg
http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/h...t=IMG_0090.jpg
http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/h...t=IMG_0089.jpg
hey mate I was reading through all your posts and was wondering how this pod is ? its something i was looking at on IPD and was a bit skeptical. what are the differences ? performance ? noise ? cheers
oh by the way Ive decided im in love with your car ! mmmmm
Last edited by ICE; 03-17-2009 at 08:28 AM.
#213
My 3" exhaust build
well finally! i built this 3" exhaust for my C70 yesterday and i'm pleased. a very special thanks to my very good friend Jon Adams of Pro Tree Kustoms for making this possible and seeing my lengthy project through. heres the pics of the build enjoy.
heres my friends shop contact info, if your in florida this is the guy you want doing all of your custom builds or basic repairs. he's a perfectionist with over 25 years experience!
first we had to get the car as high as we could since he doesn't have lift yet.
getting the stock exhaust out wasen't too bad. it comes out in 2 pieces and that bolts were nice to me and didn't require too much PB blaster to get out.
here are the materials, a mandrel bent pre-built tail pipe section for a pick-up truck (why? cause it has like (6) 45 degree bends in it for like $90. try and buy thouse bends seperately and you'll be way over that) some hangers, 2 O2 sensor bungs, a new rear O2 sensor, a magnaflow street muffler, CAT and pre-silencer, flexpipe, a 90 degree bend ( i recommend you get 2 of these, i only had one) a 10' straight and a reducer from 2.5 - 3" (which i didn't need, but i wasen't sure about the turbo outlet size)
i had some people ask me "what are you gonna do for a downpipe flange?" my answer is hell use the one volvo gave me ;P these factory flanges have a step in them that seals the exhaust to the turbo without the need of a gasket.
bolt the flange back on and let the fitting begin
once we found the angle to shoot the pipe between the firewall and the engine cradle it was time to weld. the flange welded up to the pipe very well, so it doesn't appear to be a cast iron part.
the downpipe was built with the O2 bung, flex pipe and CAT all in
the rear O2 bung need some special consideration. i wanted to put it in a a 3'o clock postion to make it easy to get to for service if it ever needed changing. putting it at 3'o clock though will not leave you with enought room to get it out in thin tunnel, so Jon built this 45 degree angle out of the some of the pipe we cut and made this custom piece.
heres most of the exhaust in the tunnel from the front
heres the complete exhaust on the floor after all the welding. looking good and smooth flowing.
heres the exit. it's tilted alittle cause the car is higher in the front than the on the jack stands. later we will make it more level once i buy another 90 degree to make the bend.
so, how much did all of this cost and how does it sound? well i know there will be people out there that will say i should have just bought the OBX kit and called it a day, but i say NAH!
i had everything built the way i wanted, with the parts i wanted, not the way OBX wanted it or wanted to put in it. the experience was great and it was a fun build. plus i did this completely 3" from the turbo back so, that means i have alot of performance upgrade room, pretty much i have to let the engine and turbo grow into the exhaust :P
the car sounds alittle louder than a stock G35 at WOT. and it's cool cause remember i'm running stock boost on a LPT. crank the boost to 14 psi with some ECU tuning and it will sound really good.
the damage:
90 degree bend - $25
double wall flex pipe - $74
truck tail pipe section - $90
O2 bungs - $2 each
(7) hangers - $5
rear 4 wire O2 - i have 2 already $0
10' straight - $25
magnaflow 3" CAT - $75
magnaflow 3" pre-muffler -$75
magnaflow 3" street muffler w/ 4" tip - $125
total = $493
yeah alittle bit mre than the OBX but way cheaper than the IPD or euro sport. over all. i'm happy.
heres my friends shop contact info, if your in florida this is the guy you want doing all of your custom builds or basic repairs. he's a perfectionist with over 25 years experience!
first we had to get the car as high as we could since he doesn't have lift yet.
getting the stock exhaust out wasen't too bad. it comes out in 2 pieces and that bolts were nice to me and didn't require too much PB blaster to get out.
here are the materials, a mandrel bent pre-built tail pipe section for a pick-up truck (why? cause it has like (6) 45 degree bends in it for like $90. try and buy thouse bends seperately and you'll be way over that) some hangers, 2 O2 sensor bungs, a new rear O2 sensor, a magnaflow street muffler, CAT and pre-silencer, flexpipe, a 90 degree bend ( i recommend you get 2 of these, i only had one) a 10' straight and a reducer from 2.5 - 3" (which i didn't need, but i wasen't sure about the turbo outlet size)
i had some people ask me "what are you gonna do for a downpipe flange?" my answer is hell use the one volvo gave me ;P these factory flanges have a step in them that seals the exhaust to the turbo without the need of a gasket.
bolt the flange back on and let the fitting begin
once we found the angle to shoot the pipe between the firewall and the engine cradle it was time to weld. the flange welded up to the pipe very well, so it doesn't appear to be a cast iron part.
the downpipe was built with the O2 bung, flex pipe and CAT all in
the rear O2 bung need some special consideration. i wanted to put it in a a 3'o clock postion to make it easy to get to for service if it ever needed changing. putting it at 3'o clock though will not leave you with enought room to get it out in thin tunnel, so Jon built this 45 degree angle out of the some of the pipe we cut and made this custom piece.
heres most of the exhaust in the tunnel from the front
heres the complete exhaust on the floor after all the welding. looking good and smooth flowing.
heres the exit. it's tilted alittle cause the car is higher in the front than the on the jack stands. later we will make it more level once i buy another 90 degree to make the bend.
so, how much did all of this cost and how does it sound? well i know there will be people out there that will say i should have just bought the OBX kit and called it a day, but i say NAH!
i had everything built the way i wanted, with the parts i wanted, not the way OBX wanted it or wanted to put in it. the experience was great and it was a fun build. plus i did this completely 3" from the turbo back so, that means i have alot of performance upgrade room, pretty much i have to let the engine and turbo grow into the exhaust :P
the car sounds alittle louder than a stock G35 at WOT. and it's cool cause remember i'm running stock boost on a LPT. crank the boost to 14 psi with some ECU tuning and it will sound really good.
the damage:
90 degree bend - $25
double wall flex pipe - $74
truck tail pipe section - $90
O2 bungs - $2 each
(7) hangers - $5
rear 4 wire O2 - i have 2 already $0
10' straight - $25
magnaflow 3" CAT - $75
magnaflow 3" pre-muffler -$75
magnaflow 3" street muffler w/ 4" tip - $125
total = $493
yeah alittle bit mre than the OBX but way cheaper than the IPD or euro sport. over all. i'm happy.
#219
#220
thanks Reg, i agree with you, but if money and time wasen't a thing i surely would have had it coated.
whats the next thing hmmm............i want to build and intake for it, but the way i wanna do it will require some time and reasearch. i really need to finish my interior. i want to increase the boost with a MBC, but i will need a boost gauge and a nice pod set-up first.
or i can start with my vented / lovered hood and duck bill spoiler mods and painted center. who knows what i'm gonna do next, but when i know you will for sure