It's so random sometimes took for a few minutes, then the car can be cranking. If bad luck more than an hour but the weird thing is, there was once i tried to hold the ignition position which is III, (holding about 6 sec) suddenly the car was cranking. But i was doubting it, so I let it go too early where the car failed to start. Then i tried it again, no crank so i changed another key, and then it cranks and started the car. In other situation both of the keys didn't work, also once i tried moving back and forth I to II position many times and it worked. But sometimes the car just won't start, so you'll have to wait until it feels like it. Like what is wrong with this damn car? Is it possible the immo is the issue here or any other electrical stuffs or maybe a mechanical? Also there's no single click sound on the starter I'm clueless right, now please help!

 

Several possibilities, but really you're lucky that it seems to be a pretty consistent problem. Much harder to chase an intermittent problem that only comes up once in a blue moon.

First, try a "shifter row", moving the shift lever through its entire range a few times quickly, and try wiggling it and/or starting the car in neutral. If this works, you have a dirty / defective / misaligned shift position switch.

Get a helper to turn the key.
Get a voltmeter (or even a 12 volt test light).
Probe the battery (make sure you really DO have 12 volts), on the post.
Probe the battery positive clamp while your buddy turns the key to start. If still 12 volts,
Probe the "big red wire" at the starter with key in start position. If still 12 volts,
Probe the "little red (?) wire" at the starter (the "signal wire"), with the key in start position. If still 12 volts,
Measure from the battery NEGATIVE terminal to the engine block with the key in start position. If more than a small fraction of a volt, replace your ground strap. If less than a fraction of a volt,
Replace your bad starter

 

Wow! thanks for the tips, I'll let you you know when I fixed the car. Appreciate it man!

 

So I've tried it, and i got reading -0.03 engine block to the body same as the battery negative post​. Yes it's literally -0.03, is that normal? The others seems to be fine got 12v reading.

 

.03 volts battery negative terminal to block is fine (I'd expect it to go higher if your starter was actually engaging).

If you've got no drop on the negative side, 12 volts on both wires going to the starter, you've just diagnosed that you have a bad starter.

I don't recall (sold my Volvo many years ago) but I don't think swapping a starter is a huge (or particularly expensive) job. I would make sure and get an OEM-quality starter from a trusted source though, so you only have to do the job once.

 

Thanks I'll let you know once it's fixed. I also just realised my "no crank no start" has a pattern instead of random. When cold start, the car seems to be fine, but when the engine's hot, yep i have to wait at least 2-3 hours.

 

Update: Unfortunately the problem is still there, new starter, and battery. Funny enough, the old starter was broken. Did bench test on it, and didn't turn. As for the new starter during the no crank no start situation, I've checked the electricity flow, and the result is the same as before 12v no any drop, don't tell me it's the starter again. This car is starting to get in my nerves.

 

Just to be clear - you're saying that you're getting 12 volts at both the big red wire (the one that supplies the many amps to the starter to run it), and to the "little signal wire" (when the key is in the start position)?

If that's the case, then there are pretty much 2.00 things that can be wrong...
1) The ground between the battery negative terminal and the engine block is bad. Per my previous post: "Measure from the battery NEGATIVE terminal to the engine block with the key in start position. If more than a small fraction of a volt, replace your ground strap."
2) Your new starter is bad. If you didn't buy an OEM-quality starter, that's all too likely. If it is a "quality brand", but from a no-name vendor, it could be a counterfeit part. This isn't as unlikely as you might think.

 

I might found the problem, possibly the relay could be bad. I decided to test the car, whenever my car can't crank, i hit the relay box then it starts. The 2nd time i was at the gas station, can't start, hit the box, alived. Last one at the parking lot, same technique, arrived home. What do you think?

 

yes, relays can get sticky when the contact surfaces get pitted and a quick tap can reset - old days you could pop the cover off and do a quick brush up with some emory cloth. Usually when a relay goes bad its due to the device itself is pulling too much current (such as a worn fuel pump etc).

 

If that so definitely the old starter to begin with, anyways thank you for responding my post and helping me. I can't thank you enough.

 

First, try a "shifter row", moving the shift lever through its entire range a few times quickly, and try wiggling it and/or starting the car in neutral. If this works, you have a dirty / defective / misaligned shift position switch.