I can't get my car to pass emissions due to the P0015 code.

I have replaced the VVT solenoid, the timing belt, the exhaust cam gear. When I replaced the exhaust cam gear I found that the cam was off by 3 teeth! Yet it still ran pretty good. Now it runs really good, purrs like a kitten - but it still has the codes.


My registration (which has already been extended 4 months) will now expire and the car will not be legal on the highway.

Guess I'll get a ford.

 

Before I junked it I would try replacing the cam position sensor, the ring on the drivers side of the exhaust cam.

How did you reset your cam positions when you replaced the VVT gear? It doesn't take much to have that CEL come on. I would go back in and double check your timing too.

I'm glad I live in a state that doesn't have emmisions testing. For us a CEL like that is usually just an annoyance

 

Can I ask why you posted that picture? It shows cam timing that is way off. The slots in the ends of the camshafts should both be horizontal I believe.

Also, how long have you owned the car? Has it been neglected in terms of regular oil changes? There are oil passages in the VVT end of the exhaust camshaft that might possibly be blocked and cause the P0015 code.

 

The cam-position sensor is $300, and I have read it is almost never the problem. I used a cam-positioning tool from Swedish Auto Parts - that tool held the cam position exactly right.

I just spoke with a friend that said you have to drive around 50 miles before the code will clear after you fix the problem.

 

That's why I posted the pictire - to show how far off it can be and still run. Yes, the slots should be horizontal and I purchased a tool to hold them that way.

I wanted to post this so that anyone else that gets a P0015 will know to check this right away. Before this I replaced the timing belt and the VVT solenoid and both times I did not bother to look at the back-end of the cam. When I replaced the belt I went by the marks that someone else painted on.

I should have looked at the back-end of the cam!

When I replaced the VVT solenoid I checked out the oil passages, they are nice and clean. No gunk build-up.

 

New information. Yes, if you didn't clear the code you need to complete some number of drive cycles before it clears itself.

 

I did enter the 'clear-code' command on the ODBII unit, but nothing cleared. According to my friend some error codes require a certain amount of evaluation time before the engine computer will clear it.

 

It could be a problem with whatever code reader you are using. If you clear the code, it clears without having to drive. VIDA would be good, it can test the CVVT system as well.

 

Wow that's weird, I just had the exact conversation with a buddy of mine at work. This guys a real gear-head (although he likes Chevy), his car has a super-charger that he installed.

He said the same, a cheapie code reader (like mine) will not clear all codes. He's going to bring in his, which is a $200 unit, but says even it will not clear all code.

My gas-mileage has gone way up too!

 

If you're planning to DIY on this car, an important tool is a DiCE / VIDA unit. There's a steep learning curve, but you will be able to do things only a dealer could do, and get a customized workshop manual for all Volvos to boot. The VIDA side is available free as a VMware image, which will run on any PC.

 

Borrowed the ODBII tool from AutoZone....

It cleared the codes!!!

And they are staying CLEARED!!

Looks like I get to keep driving a Volvo!

 

I was getting P0015 on my 04 S40 1.9T. Checked the VVT solenoid, working fine and the gasket screen/passages are also fine. Car only has 82k miles, no big hurry for timing belt. Clearing the code would work but would return next day (always). I don't know the history on the motor but I don't think synthetic oil was used.

Decided to run 3/4 quart ATF for about 250 miles (4 days) and noticed on the 4th day the cleared code didn't return. Drained the oil, put in Castrol Synthetic and a new filter. Code hasn't returned in a week (longest since I bought the car). Looking good and a very inexpensive possible fix.

Cheers!

 

Good info. There's one very small oil passage inside the VVT pulley - maybe .040" in internal diameter. When this gets blocked the pulley does not unlock (I think).

Your experiment reinforces my thought that you need to run a high detergency oil to keep the VVT pulley operating without problems.