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So I'm replacing my control arm and bushings as well as ball joints.
I got the old ball joint out with nothing but a small hammer and a flat head screwdriver. However I'm having a hard time getting the new balljoints in. I didn't take the hub off and only have the car on jack stands. Not much room to swing a hammer.
I use the screws and try to keep the balljoint level. But I use a punch and tap it in some then screw the screw in a little at a time till it is seated.
I just did one today at work.
Shop quoted me over $500 to do the front. Thinking about trying this myself as the front end sounds like a bucket of bolts. Is it do-able in the home garage without special tools?
I use the screws and try to keep the balljoint level. But I use a punch and tap it in some then screw the screw in a little at a time till it is seated.
I just did one today at work.
I'm ready to start throwing hammers here, Tech. I think I damaged that tiny little seal on the inside "flange" if you can even call it that. This job is frickin' impossible. Any idea where to get the &%&*{$ recommended tools?
DO you mean the boot on the balljoint?
How bad is it?
Another thing you can try is find a metal pipe that will just go around the boot and hammer on the pipe to tap it in.
I rented a traditional ball joint press that has parts similar to what you're talking about. Problem is that when you tap it, the ball joint goes in leaning to the outside because there's no lip on the inside of the part so all the pressure goes on the outside, front and back where there is a place to push against.
I'm trying to upload a photo ... let's see how this goes.
Last edited by trebuchet5684; Apr 27, 2010 at 08:00 PM.
Reason: additional information
As long as it presses on the balljoint you can hit the opposite end of the pipe to straighten it.
Or do like I said originally said. Use the screws to put pressure on the balljoint and tap the balljoint in and keep tightening the screws at the same time. Hit the balljoint towards the inside like right next to the screws.
I hope I am not out of line and of course you will want to wait for a reply from the techs. At the recommend of Senior Member "Typhoon" I used a propane blow torch to heat up the metal and the ball joint squeezed right in as I gradually tightened the bolts down. Be careful not to heat up the rubber. I too went through all the same frustrations as was explained here and I even damaged the rubber with the sleeve I had been hammering with. I too had rented a special tool to no avail.
I went to Home Depot and bought a 2" (ID) x 3" long pipe nipple. This fits perfectly around the ball joint. I just lined up the bolt holes by eye, tapped it in a little to get it started straight, and used the pipe nipple and a hammer to seat it all the way (with the steering knuckle resting on a block of wood).
I did remove the steering knuckle from the car, however. I agree it would be hard to do this with the knuckle still on the car.
Thanks all. I did the same on Tech's recommendation. $7.50 at Lowe's and they both went in slick as snot. (That's 2" ID x 3" long plus a cap to beat on.) A good dose of axle grease helped too. I did not have to remove either knuckle from the car. In case this helps anyone else, pics are below.
Last edited by trebuchet5684; Apr 28, 2010 at 09:07 PM.
As long as it presses on the balljoint you can hit the opposite end of the pipe to straighten it.
Or do like I said originally said. Use the screws to put pressure on the balljoint and tap the balljoint in and keep tightening the screws at the same time. Hit the balljoint towards the inside like right next to the screws.
Great advice!
Does anyone know if this will work on the Volvo 960, in case I have to do ball joints?
Old thread, but I'll have to give this a shot tomorrow, I have spent the last 2 days trying to seat my drivers ball joint. Even tried driving it around to see if it would pop in, these things are a pita.
Originally Posted by trebuchet5684
Thanks all. I did the same on Tech's recommendation. $7.50 at Lowe's and they both went in slick as snot. (That's 2" ID x 3" long plus a cap to beat on.) A good dose of axle grease helped too. I did not have to remove either knuckle from the car. In case this helps anyone else, pics are below.