I noticed about a week ago my check engine light came on. Sometimes it happens from the gas cap situation when the wife drives it. She never tightens it properly. But it stayed on for a week or so.

I noticed about two weeks ago I replaced yet another ignition coil and the car was running again like brand new... Full power and fast.

I noticed when I was placing my tubes on top of the motor back in place that I could turn the hose clamps by hand as if they weren't tightening.... These are the air tubes in the rear by the firewall......I assume they go to the turbos....... I think these might be causing a leak because when I start the car I can here some whining and such until it warms up...Almost like fast rushing air to so to speak........

Any rate I was driving the car and punched it and it took off then dropped out as if I let up off the gas while under hard acceleration. This was during a lane change on the highway. Not even 1 minute after that the check engine light came on......It comes and goes. One day it runs like a top, the next it feels like hardly any acceleration like the car is a non-turbo....

Tonight I took it to advance to have the codes scanned and WOW..... It pulled 7 codes. I almost fell over......

Here are the codes.
P0507
P0340
P2407
P0571
P0234
P0430
P0420

I know one of those is the ABS which has been acting up when it warms up. I do intend on replacing the hose clamps on the plastic tubing tomorrow to see if I Can get them to tighten up more. Is it possible they aren't tight and are leaking causing the car to choke out looking for air from the turbos?????

One code says ir regulation in pressure from the turbos....That's what made me think right away it could be the tubes leaking....

I'm going to check hoses and such also for any leaks and such. I would like to clean the mass air flow sensor with cleaner but am very nervous to do this.....

The car idles fine, starts fine, runs fine, no revving, no rough idle, I can do 70 mph with no problems, shakes or shutters. It's just a power issue at times and loss of power under load at times.......The only smell I ever smell is when I punch it and it smells in the car for about a minute as if burnt off gas odor or such. But I've always smelled this smell since I've owned the car which has been over 4 years.
Car starts and runs fine, shifts fine etc...
Well if anyone has any suggestions I appreciate it.....

04 S80 T6........

Questions....Ask away! I appreciate the info.
Spankey.

 

Okay, those "Tubes" on top of the engine-Those are your turbo Intake and Charged Air lines. If those clamps are left loose it's very possible that the problems you're experiencing are related to that. If the charged air line is loose, the boost pressure will escape and that will result in significant power loss. Check the clamps, make sure they're tight and that should solve most of your issues.

The P0571 code-- That I believe is a Brake Pedal Sensor code. How does your cruise control work? That's usually the biggest sign of that going bad.

Best regards,
Bill

 

Thanks a million! When the ABS/brake light come on the Cruise doesn't work nor the odometer. The spedo and tach do work. When the brake light/abs light doesn't come on everything works fine. I can set cruise and it functions. It comes and goes when something gets warm from warm up state. What would be the fix for that? A new brake pedal sensor? Funny thing is the other day I had the hood up and put my hand on the Air box and it kinda moved front to back, almost a little loose. My ABS/Brake light never came on the entire 1 hour ride I was driving after that. Usually if the temp outside is above 30 degrees the lights pop up. When I restarted the car for the ride home. Bingo, the lights pop back up again.

As for the intake turbo tubes....I've had to replace ignition coils so many times that I could remove the items to get to them with my eyes closed. I noticed that the intake tube clamps only tighten so far and I could spin them. To me they didn't feel tight at all....... I hope placing new ones on allows me to tighten them harder.

I'll do a hard reset by pulling the battery terminals for about an hour when done to hopefully reset the computer...
Keep you posted on the outcome.
Thanks again.
Spankey

 

I would definitely replace/rebuild (It's easy) the brake pedal position sensor. As far as those go, the biggest sign that it's bad is your cruise is intermittent. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. As computerized as these cars are, I've seen them do some REALLY weird stuff when the sensor goes bad. As for wiggling your airbox- the ABS pump is close to that and maybe you bumped it, those are another very common thing to go wrong on Volvo's. It's normal for the airbox to be a tad loose, it's just held in place by clips.

Best regards,
Bill

 

Thanks! I put new hose clamps on the intake tubes and reset the battery! So far the car seems much much better.
Where is the brake position sensor and is it hard to rebuild?
Thanks