I ordered a new one.. want to prepare for it. I saw a youtube giving instructions bringing it out the top.. under the alternator and PS pump. On some earlier models I read it comes out the bottom easy if you leave the bolts in the compressor. Does anyone know if this is possible and easier then all the labor nec going out the top?


05 non turbo V70 2.4

 

Go have the AC evacuated and tell the guy you'll be back for recharge after you're done. I'll bet you did that already.
Disconnect battery.

Draw a schematic of the accessory belt's route. Slacken it at the tensioner and remove it
PS pump bolts are removed from through the pulley's holes. Just swing it out of the way.
Remove wires and bolts and remove the alternator. Go out the top. You may have to loosen the dipstick tube bracket.
You'll then see that the AC compressor wouldn't come out without first removing he alternator.
Break its connections, unplug the lead wire and remove it.

Remember to order any seals. Good compressors come with them but oversights do happen.
Don't leave the system open to the atmosphere any longer than you have to.
Many people advise installing a new receiver-dryer whenever doing AC work.
It might be advisable to add dye during your refill just to have it. Ask your "evacuator" if this is smart.

I'm sure I'm omitting something really obvious. I'll give the Haynes a look when I get home.

 

I've changed them from the top and bottom. By the time that you lower the subframe to get them out of the bottom, you might as well do a top removal and do a PCV service while you're at it. Here's what I do for compressor removal.

• Remove the radiator fan assembly.
• Remove intake manifold along with throttle body. While it is out, give the throttle body a thorough cleaning both sides.
• Remove the alternator.
• Now you have enough room to get the compressor out from the top. The bolts are much easier that way.
• While you have this apart, change the PCV breather box and hoses.

The drier is a challenge on these cars and requires removal of the front bumper cover to access. While the front bumper cover is not that hard to remove, some don't want to do it. Once removed, it is right there for easy servicing (have system discharged first).

Attached is how it looks with the bumper cover removed.

 

thank you... I may not have to do it. I discovered it stops cooling only when hot and it may be the thermal cutoff on the compressor. I'll study it further,

i saw it can be bypassed resulting in it working without protection.. if it overheats it will burn it out but that would only require a new compressor so its a wash

 

It sounds to me like the clutch gap is too large. They tend to open up over time from engaging/disengaging against each other. When hot, the clutch can't hold the outer piece in due to higher ohms but as it cools down, it engages.

You may only need to remove the shim between the two. It does require removing the compressor to make the job easier. Fighting that on the car is no day at the beach.

 

yes, yes.. you Are right.. it is powering up but not engaging. it is the clutch gap too wide. .

I will repair that and return the new parts. thank you for the input tony


isn't strange how sometimes you test something with a testlight and get nothing while other times it lights.. am I the only one that these type of misleading occurrences happen again and again. I must double check everything!!! senile?

 

Even with the clutch heating up, you should have had 12+ volts at the power supply to the compressor. You are not the first one to have trouble with this diagnosis. I had a few back in the day that behaved this way and I replaced the compressor/clutch with a reman unit. Of course, those had new clutches and narrow gaps since they were new. Once I discovered this phenomenon, I've not had to buy a compressor since.

 

all fixed.. it was easy. removed stuff on top and unbolted the compressor leaving the refrig lines on... propped it facing up and used a harmonic balancer puller to remove the clutch... just had to find 3 screws to fit the threaded holes. there was only one shim in it. it wasn't quite enough to leave me with .016 gap so i took very little off the seat at the compressor with a dremmel grinder. it measures now .014 and works well. its supposed to be .016 to .020" but I think if its cleanly spaced and spins free its fine.

time... 3 hours

funny how the top compressor bolts also hold down the alternator.. had to scratch my head wondering how the alternator came off.

 

Nice work. The alternator should have a bolt at 11 o'clock facing the alternator plus the two that you removed for the top mount of the compressor.