I found a 164E that had been in the woods for 30 yrs. It has 44,490 OG miles on it....Someone yanked the FI system and set up an electric fuel pump with a single carb. Does anyone have thoughts/suggestions on getting orig FI stuff(including manifold) to put back on it?
I will add some pics shortly.....
None of the usual spots have much for the fuel injection system.....

 

I am in the process of trying to break the engine loose. Has been sitting for 30 yrs literally....Tried ATF down the plug holes....not moving yet...may have to pull the head and see what's inside....

 

164E would mean B30 right? So literally just a B18/20 with 2 more cylinders?
I'm not sure your experience with engines, but I remember being in a similar position when I knew next to nothing about cars and wish someone had told me so I'll throw it out there anyway. This is pretty generic info though so there may be specifics with your motor that necessitate different procedures.

I've worked with a couple seized engines before, if the ATF works, great, but you got the right idea on the heads. The crank bolt can only handle so much, and it doesn't have the best mechanical advantage when it comes to forcing the pistons to move.
If it takes longer than a week or two assuming you don't have all year, just rip the heads off, I find shock therapy (the rubber kind) and penetrating oil works best on the piston face.
Keep the pushrods and lifters in order if you intend on reusing them and keep all the bolts well organized.

If it doesn't work out, you can take the oil pan off, disconnect the rods from the crank and smack them from the bottom using a socket extension, a big boy hammer, and some towels to pad it. You can break the piston face through the bottom by accident easier than you think. I find the blocks that hold the wrist pins in the best place to hit it. Also be careful not to scratch the crankshaft with the rod or your tools when hammering the piston if you choose this method, wrap it in a towel or something. Make sure the rods and caps are labeled (if they aren't stamped by factory)
30 years leaves a lot of rust potential on the table. Worst one I had I broke a very seized piston piece by piece using a punch, some people use a weird sort of air hammer to make it easier. You're lucky though, pistons and parts in general for these are dirt cheap, not quite like the ones I worked with.
The wear ring of the bore can catch your seized piston rings and make it very difficult to remove them too as they do not want to compress anymore, so if you notice its getting caught just before it makes it out the top of the bore, that's what it is.
Another method is to mix 50/50 ATF/motor oil and gasoline/(any good fuel), pour it into the seized cylinder until its almost full, throw a piece of shop towel or something in there as a wick and light it overnight (this is assuming you pulled the engine, don't want to set your car on fire). This got another really nasty piston I had in my motor out.

That "someone" probably didn't want to bother with the old, stanky, and fiddly fuel injection electronics that came with it, and as far as I am aware parts are not particularly common, the original fuel pumps are pricey and rare (although nobody said you had to use one). I'm doing that conversion with my 1800ES, I'm missing some parts for the FI and the carb is infinitely easier to mess with (also because I am broke and this is a much cheaper option). If I want fuel injection I'll probably do a custom megasquirt thing later on where I can use modern and readily available electronics that will deliver higher more reliable performance for less cost.

Good luck man, as long as you don't damage the crank or the bore too bad, you really can't mess it up. Keep everything lubricated with motor oil/WD40/penetrating oil and the like, and your chances of gouging/scratching something you don't want to go way down.

 

Thanks for the info. I have been working on aircooled VWs for a bunch of years so not new to the car world for sure!
I figured that the ATF would be the first shot and actually got it to move! I let it sit for about two wks....

I will def have to go the carb route and sort out fuel pump as the PO set up an electric pump on the intake and the way it was wired is definitely janky! the old plugs aren't burnt or rusted so i think I am in good shape as far as getting the lower half of the engine to cooperate. I am all about recommendations on carbs and fuel pumps (or the megasquirt set up)....the car is moderately rough and I have contemplated getting a 240 instead but we will see! LOL

 

Nice! You got a lot luckier than I was.
So I am assuming that the guy who converted it to carbureted used a standard 164 intake manifold? But you said a single carb? That's weird because online says all B18/B20/B30 that had carburetors, all had dual carburetor setups.
Either way, there are two routes you can take. As you might be aware, all of these engines with the carbureted models allow use of a mechanical fuel pump mounted on the driver side of the engine driven off the camshaft (FI models will have it blocked off with a little plate with two bolts), BUT chances are these camshafts are ground specifically for fuel injected models and do not have the lobe that allows mounting of one. I am not sure and I cannot find information online about if that is the case. Therefore as you suggested and the guy who converted it did, you can mount an electronic fuel pump. Any generic fuel pump in the 8psi range should work, and it should be one intended for use outside of the gas tank as it mounts right next to it.

A megasquirt setup will probably run you at least 2 grand or more depending on which of their ECUs you go for, meanwhile this fuel pump may cost you 150 bucks for all the supplies. My opinion personally is you may just want to get it running reliably to enjoy the car for now as a FI setup on an otherwise stock engine won't be a huge upgrade for the cost (unless you intend on running boost). Especially considering all the sensors you'd have to hook up and the wiring harness you'd have to make.

I picked up this fuel pump for mounting in my 1800ES and I will get to that very soon so I can tell you how it goes (as it is very similar in terms of wiring for these two cars)

It comes with the barb fittings and mounting hardware, so all you'll need are hose, clamps, it suggests a 100 micron pre-filter and a 40 micron post-filter (you can find them for about 10 bucks each). The fuel pump says it draws around 4A, you should be able to tap into just the positive of the original wiring as the original high pressure fuel pump draws about double that.

If the wiring is gone though or it doesn't work, the pump is #80 and the fuel pump relay is #79 as it connects to the fuel injection main relay #91 and the big bar fuel injection control unit #76. You can find SXL and GXL 16G wiring for around 10 bucks for 100 feet (usually the minimum order length)
The fuse I think you should tap into if need be is #5, you can find a relay and all the connectors you need on a website like Waytek.