So I have a couple
of calipers... They might be seized...
I just would like to See if I can
use something more than a screwdriver
to compress the piston back into the
caliper.
Is there a cheap(inexpensive)
method.... anybody has derived
of to even apply force to cause
the pistons to recede into their
bores?????
I was thinking of a couple of
ideas but, don't really feel like
reinventing the wheel.....
or even a tool... I can purchase
that doesn't "break the bank".
G88

 

I have used a large c-clamp to do this - mainly out of convenience. If it takes a lot of force to move them then you really need to replace or rebuild the calipers.

 

+1 on the C-clamp as that's all I use.

 

I use these; but C- clamps work great too.

12 in. Ratcheting Bar Clamp/Spreader

I usually leave the inner pad in the carrier and use that to seat the clamp on. Open lid on M.C.

 

If they are suspected to be seized, just pushing them open won't unseize them and make them usable. If they are that tight you'd need to get them rebuilt or better just change them altogether.

 

Hi Goldie88
Working in the remanufactoring business of autoparts, I will not advice you to try repair your old calipers yourself. To many Things can give you troubles later on. If they are started to corrode and are stocked, even if you change sealings, you will have leaking soon again. It is a safty part... My best suggestion (and, at the end of the day, probably also cheapest), - get yourself a pair of remanufactored calipers. :-)

 

what he said. brakes are far too important to screw around with.

 

Dig it.....
Yeah, gone are the days of rebuilding
calipers and wheel cyclingers..... honing them out... etc....

So it is a dual piston caliper.... I have to ask...
cause I have only messed with cars that have
single piston calipers...... When you
squeeze one piston in..... (if the other
piston in the caliper is not clamped)
will the other piston move outward????
Do you have to clamp them both
at the same time?
I had seen people wedging a screwdriver
in against the rotor to move a piston inward......
on these(volvo - utube) cars........ Seems like not even pressure
on the piston..... what do you's think?
THanks, G88

 

I use the big screwdriver used as a pry bar method; I wedge it between the rotor and the piston side (with the old pad in place), apply even pressure. It should work just fine...

 

Any time you compress ANY caliper , you should break the bleeder screw loose and allow the brake fluid to go out the bleeder instead of going back into the brake system.
You do not want the old fluid going back into the ABS or master cylinder system and causing problems !

 

Well, OK, but the "old" fluid won't cause any damage backing up a little. And by opening the nipple there is a risk of allowing air in the system necessitating bleeding. If you are just replacing the pads, a little prying onto the caliper won't hurt a thing... I like to keep it simple.

 

You can convince yourself that if you want . how much do you know about brake fluid & ABS systems ?

 

Very few 240s were built with ABS.

 

"How much do I know about brake fluid and ABS systems?" I am sure not much compared to you; you sound like an expert. However, working on brakes, ABS and not, for some 40 years and never having had a problem backing up some brake fluid by pushing the piston back gives me enough comfort in the practice not to worry about it...