Hi all, I'm new around here, I'm debating whether or not to try my hand at changing the timing belt in my '94 850 Turbo. It has about 140,000 KM (that works out to be about 88,000 miles for those of you south 49), but the sticker on the timing belt cover says that it's been at least 5 years since the last change. I figure I should have one done to be safe, since I bought this car used in late 2007.

I've read all the wonderful write-ups on how to change the timing belt, but there is one thing I'm not sure I'll be able to do myself, and that is compressing the hydraulic belt tensioner (I presume I have this one as opposed to the manual one)

The only thing I could find, was that it takes either the tool from volvo or a vise that opens up 7". I have neither, so I'd like to know if there is anything else that anybody else has used besides these two things. This is my first time attempting this kind of repair, and so I'd rather not take everything apart and then realize I can't continue because I need to go out and buy something. I plan on changing just the timing belt, maybe the serpentine belt if it looks like it needs it.

Thanks.

mm

 

I do a lot by myself but I have not decided to tread those waters. My opinion is to pay someone else to do it if you can afford to. Just a hard, tight job from all I know about it. A broken timing belt can destroy the engine so I just do not want to take the chance of messing that one up. :-S

 

I would think compressing the tensioner is one of the easier things to do. I would think you would be able to do this with a c-clamp if you don't have a vice. Just do not try to compress it too fast or it will ruin the tensioner.

Do not try to do this if you don't have good assortment of tools. You will also need a set of torx bits to do this and many other jobs on these cars. As long as you take your time and pay attention to what you are doing, you should be able to do this. Just make sure when you get the belt on that you rotate the engine atleast two complete rotations by hand to make sure that the valves dont hit the pistons before you try to start it.

 

Buy a new tensioner and it comes compressed with a pin it that you pull out after you get it all together. Take Dan's advice and make sure the engine turns over by hand freely before you hit the starter. Take it from one who knows. I tried to start mine after putting the head back on and was not on the marks. Bent two valves even though it never started. Had to take the the head back off and have the two valves replaced.

 

Great advice by all. I did the timing belt on both my sons 850 and my wife's XC70. They are not hard if you take your time and follow the great write ups. I bought a new tensioner for the 850 and as said by JimKW, it was already compressed with the pin in it. I re used the one on the XC70 and compressed it with a C-Clamp. THe best advice I can give has also been said. Turn the motor over by hand at least 4-8 full revolutions at the crankshaft before starting it....You will know if it is binding anywhere.

If you get in any binds, shoot a message to the forum, and lots of folks will help

 

Volvo have a special tool to compress the tensioner.
From memory it takes ~10 minutes to compress.
I used a vice and gave a quater turn every few minutes.
The vice I used (125mm ?) doesn't open that far, so I put it in against the bolt hole on the tensioner.
Sat at a slight angle, but it worked fine.
C clamp would work (and are cheap).
Maybe stand it up and put a brick or seven on it ?
From my readings there is one important step.

DO IT SLOWLY.

Also dont forget to arrange it so you can put the pin in when it is compressed.

Here ya go

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt3.php
"If you are using a vice, close it very very slowly. The Volvo tool takes 5-10 minutes, just to give you an idea how slowly you should compress the tensioner."

 

Thanks! This is very helpful. Since November when I got my '93 850 (my first Volvo) I've just been driving it, other than taking apart the sunroof and a few switch and light replacements, etc. So I still don't really know my way around the car. Does an access panel come off from behind the right front wheel?
And do you take the spark plugs out and use a breaker bar with socket to turn the engine by hand?
JB

 

The inner wheel well is plastic and has a nut that that you take of to create a flap that you fold up to get inside the engine compartment. Yes a breaker bar will do the trick. You will get less resistance if you trun it over with the plugs out, but I don't think it's necessary. You can tell if it's just combustion vs. metal on metal resistance.

 

Here's the start of that post; it walks you through the whole process (including access to the crank pulley):
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.php

For me, the most difficult part was finding the TDC alignment notch/mark on the crank pulley.

 

Thanks for all the replies.

I've been to a u-pull-it yard and took apart an 850 engine so I already have an idea of what to expect when doing the timing chain. The only thing I was debating was whether or not I would get that vise that opens 7" which I would only need once every 5 years or so.

I'm glad to hear that the tensioner can be compressed using just a c-clamp and that others have already done it that way. If I had to get the vise, the cost might not be worth my while I would've probably got somebody else to do it for me.

I'll probably take the suggestion by Psaboic and buy a new tensioner. And reuse it the next time I do the timing belt (assuming I'll still have this car in another 5 years).

 

I have replaced many timing belts on the Volvos (240, 740, 960,& 850) I have always used the c-clamp method. I start compressing it as soon as I take it off. one turn every couple minutes. It's always worked like a champ. The only tricky part is; you need a good pin or some thing to use as such. 1/8" rivets have worked great for me, they're ridged enough to hold the pin back, but small enough to fit and have a head to make removal after installation easy. You can buy a pack of 20 at home depot.


Daniel
1996 850 turbo wagon

 

I took mine to home depot and put it in one of their large clamps they sell. I didn't know about the C clamp method or I would've paid $0.99 for one and done it at home . As far as compressing it goes I personally wouldn't just turn it 1 turn every few minutes. It's about the rate of compression. So 1 turn quickly every few minutes is as bad as multiple turns quickly in a row. Turn it slooooowly. Just my $0.02.

 

Agreed!

 

The other day I managed to find an 850 in the local pick and pull yard that still had it's timing belt on. I practiced taking it off and I got my hands on the tensioner.

On the volvospeed writeup, it says you need a vise that opens at least 7". Well I measured the tensioner and fully extended it's not more than 6".

Just FYI for those of you who were about to run out and buy an 8" vise instead of a 6". I got a cheap convertible 4,6,7" c-clamp, and I discovered to my surprise that I could could have just as easily used a 6" c-clamp. Luckily I got mine on sale so, it's not a big deal.

I even tried it on the brand new tensioner I just bought (doh, it always happens that way) and it's not more than 6" when fully extended.

mm

 

I just changed my timing belt in a 1995 850 turbo. Garage 13 information was great and manual helped also. The C clamp works great as I replace my tensioner and used the old one for experience and it was easy. Make sure to go over the marks on the camshaft pulley and exhaust and intake cranks. Take your time putting the belt on as you have to make sure the right side of the belt is tight. The tensioner will tighten the left side when released. You may need an extra set of hands. If you have any question, I am a fellow canadian that will be willing to help you also.

It is not that bad and can save you money. Are you also changing the pulleys. If not make sure to lubricate them.

 

I have read the full thread of this topic, lots of great infotrmation.
I am still not sure if I should replace the automatic tensioner or just re-compress it. This is the second timming belt for my car. The first one was replaced by a dealer from a previous owner. I am not sure if this is a part that will last a second run if it was not replaced.

 

Generally the rule of thumb is to replace the tensioner and tensioner pulley every OTHER time, so this would be the time to replace them. Recommend going with OEM parts for these items. Got some bogus ones from fcp before; had to send them back. Might want to do the H20 pump while you're in there too (if it's due..).

I remember reading a thread about this very topic but can't seem to find it now...

 

I just completed the belt replacement on my 1998 V70 GLT 182K and it was a lot easier than I thought. I was expecting to have trouble with the space behind the crank pulley, and sure enough to tigth. So then all I had to do was remove the 4 dampner bolts and off comes the crank pulley. The rest is history.

Thanks for your responses.
Roger