I am afraid I already know the answer to this question (that I should break down to them and push them in further), but what do y'all think? The first picture is of where my original cam seals were seated when I was dismantling to do my head gasket (and everything else) job. The second is of where I seated them when I put new ones on. I greased them up good and pushed them evenly (always use fingertips all around the seal) until I felt resistance, but it looks like they are about 1/8" shy of being in as far as the originals. So what would you do (folks who know lol) ... take the starter back off (flywheel access), serpentine belt back off, timing belt back off, cam sprockets back off, and try to push them in further? Or try them where they're at? Oh, and they are the correct seals from FCPGroton. Thanks in advance.

Tracy

 

They should be all the way in. Where they're at they're not creating a seal against the head/cam cover. And when you tap them in further make sure to use a large socket or something similar.

And just a heads up. I used FCP's cam seals the first time I did my cam cover and when I redid it, one of the seals were already trashed and I replaced all of them with OEMs.

 

You're kidding?!?

The front and rear cam seals I got from FCPGroton are Elring, and you had bad luck with them? I was already having doubts about tearing back down to and redoing the top head section with the genuine Volvo anaerobic sealant. I had already reinstalled everything with the sealant FCPGroton sells when someone told me what I used won't hold up (or their's didn't). All I lacked (before realizing the cam seals weren't pushed on far enough) was putting the intake / throttle body / airbox stuff back on, dropping the fan back in, and reconnecting the battery. I am torn now ...

Tracy

 

To me it looks like the head in the top pic has been done before with all of that squeeze out.

I put my seals almost all the way in, more like the top seals, but there is a drain oil in the back and I wanted oil to have a way out behind the seals. The bottom seals don't look like they're in far enough.

Some of the cam seals I got, the ones in the head gasket kit, had single lips , I wanted double lip seals so I bought and used them.

I used the victor reintz thick, clear gooey sealant from FCP on my second engine and was worried about it so did some research on line. I found that OEM's like Porsche , Audi, Volvo etc. are using it now and mine, after many WOT's to red line, is holding up great.

 

I am the one who said the FCP sealant failed after about two weeks. Some people have had success with it and some have not. I did not. That two weeks was also the length in time it took for the FCP cam seal to wear out. I replaced it all with OEM components. After that incident, I am slowly going through my important seals that I used aftermarket for and replacing with OEM.

 

Does FCP sell OEM Cam seals or do I need to get them from the Stealer?

 

Recently did my rear exhaust cam seal with a dealer seal. Got it in further than pic #2 but not as far as pic #1 and not as far as the original. I too was concerned about this. At the dealer parts counter for some dash light bulbs I asked the parts guy about how far and what if etc. He said "not sure, I'll go ask one of the guys". A friendly dealership this is! He came back and said no sweat, the mechanic said it should be at least flush with the housing so I figured I was okay. And I was...so far not a drop and about 500 miles down the road. For what it's worth!!!
Rickford.

 

My cam seals (that were set flush) have also held perfectly fine with no leaks after about three thousand miles and four months of usage. The FCP Groton sealant (clear Victor Reinz stuff) has also held great with no leaks from the cam cover, so all is well and good. I did use a bit more than just a light film and it set up more than I was comfortable with before I got through putting it all on and installed - but it has been fine. Whew!