Hi all, so my girlfriend has the 1999 S70 2.4 non turbo vin 55, it's making a creaking noise from the front left when going over bumps or if you simply push up and down on the front of the car.

Local Volvo shop (not dealer) says its the "strut cap" which I know as a strut mount plate/bearing, I called a dealership to see how much for parts to do it my self as I couldn't find them at local stores in stock and the guy who answered the phone in parts said it was probably the spring seat, without me even asking.

So I've found these :

http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?st...=691&V_ID=1618

and these:

http://www.amazon.com/Moog-K90229-Coil-Spring-Seat/dp/B000C545DG/ref=au_pf_pfg_s?ie=UTF8&Model=S70|146&n=15684181&s =automotive&Make=Volvo|27&Year=1999|1999&newCar=1& carId=002

Now a few questions:

Is this actually whats causing the noise?
I've heard similar noises that were control arm bushings (although this car has a new one on the left). I can post a video of the noise if needed.

Can I tackle this in my garage/do I have to remove the whole spring assembly or can I compress it while still attached to the lca?
It's been my experiance that control arm bolt can be very very stubborn.

Will I need an alignment?

The shop want $140 parts and labor for the "cap" which I'm thinking they are just going to do this spring seat, and that would include an alignment if necessary. Seeing as an alignment is $60-$75 and the part is $25 - $30, $35 - $55 dollars might be worth letting them do it.

I feel fairly confident on suspension work as I've done the whole front end on my own car.

Also, I will be doing the front sway bar end links which seem pretty straight forward as on most cars, but if there are some surprises please let me know.

This is the first Volvo I've worked on.

Thanks in advance!

 

That's it.

Your local NAPA has them for $25. The rubber bushing in the center will separate and rub, causing your noise.

 

See post #2 in this thread; for the spring seats (rubber part) you want either OEM or the HD ones IPD sells. For the bearings, ONLY use OEM or you'll be sorry!

How many miles on this ride? Might as well do anything else that needs replacing while you're in there; struts, etc.

For $140 i bet your shop is using cheap scan-tech parts; won't last...

 

The car has 150k on it and unfortunately, burns about a quart of oil every 3 weeks and it hasn't been neglected (at least not by the current owner).
The car also needs a new compressor and O2 sensors which for some reason are astronomicaly priced. The timing belt was also just replaced. The dash squeeks and rattles like (insert something that sqeeks and rattles a lot).

It could probably use new shocks all the way around but as of right now the tire wear isn't uneven. And don't really have the money to do all that at the moment.
I knowt his car has a lot of potential. And if it were mine it would be in tip top shape like my current car is, but these things don't really bother here that much fort some reason.

 

by looking at the strut mount you can figure out if is worn or not. if the rubber is craked when you press on the car you will see the steel bushing coming out more. if that happen then you need new ones if not check other parts at the suspension.

 

Weell did it todayt all went pretty smoothly, bot nearly as stubborn as my car was.
Only problem I ran into was that I put the dust cover ob backwards and didn't notice till the strut was back in the car.